Montezuma

One of Montezuma’s many draws is its impressive range of dining options. A sampling of Italian, Costa Rican, Mediterranean, American, and organic health-food restaurants are sure to tempt even the most delicate palette. Cuisine here is exceptionally delicious, and choosing a place to dine among the appetizing options can be a difficult task.

Nights in Montezuma can be as tranquil or exciting as you’d like. Keep an eye out for jugglers and fire-throwers that often stroll the streets looking for crowds to awe and impress.

Cafe Buen Provecho 

This wonderful open-air cafe is located right in the center of town. They serve sandwiches on homemade bread, delicious ice cream, and an assortment of jams.

Chico’s Bar

The main pillar of Montezuma’s nightlife, Chico’s Bar gets packed on a daily basis with a young and international crowd. Locals and visitors alike frequent this popular bar which rocks out on weekends. After last call, the party often spills out onto the beach.

Cocolores

A lantern-lined path greets guests to Cocolores, a beachfront restaurant offering an international selection of Greek, Mexican, Thai and Italian dishes. The fresh ceviche and flavorful curries are highly recommended.

El Sano Banano

El Sano Banano hotel shows movies in English nightly and admission is free for patrons that spend at least $6.

Luz de Mono Hotel

Live music is occasionally on offer at this popular hotel during the  months of December through April. Most concerts are free, and the majority of the town comes to enjoy the show.

Organico

Cafe Organico's chefs choose only the freshest ingredients from the organic market's to craft healthy, often vegetarian or vegan, meals. Their creations include the Turtle Love Salad, a hearty blend of mixed greens, avocado, mint, cilantro, and sugar snap peas, as well as satisfying sweets like avocado ice cream.

Playa de los Artistas

Considered one of Montezuma's top restaurants, this eatery offers a rotating menu of lobster, wood oven pizza, smoked cheeses, sushi, homemade breads, and other delicacies. There's also a good selection of vegetarian options.

Puggo's

The only Israeli restaurant in Montezuma, Puggo's blends Mediterranean, Asian and Israeli flavors in innovative and delicious dishes. The restaurant gets top reviews for the owner-chef's mouthwatering creations – fresh seafood, salads, and stews, as well as several vegetarian options.

Ylang Ylang

Ylang Ylang, named for the aromatic flowers that dot Montezuma, promises an eclectic menu of mostly organic meals with an emphasis on vegetarian, vegan and raw food. The restaurant serves fish and chicken, but does not offer pork or beef.

Bicycles:

Bicycles can be rented inexpensively on the outskirts of town. The mountain bikes are in wonderful condition, and come with a lock and key.

Foot:

Getting around on foot is the easiest and most economical means of transport in downtown Montezuma. All hotels and restaurants are within walking distance from the beach. Be prepared for some exercise if staying on the edge of town – climbing the hills is tough in the heat of the afternoon.

Car:

You’ll find sufficient parking in downtown Montezuma. While a car is not a necessity, it is convenient for those staying in one of the many hotels on the edge of town. Roads and directions are clearly marked, and most nearby destinations require a drive through Cobano, where you’ll find the area’s only gas stations.

Taxi:

Taxis are in short supply in Montezuma, but most hotels will call one if you ask. Sometimes they gather near the beach, in front of Hotel Montezuma.  Montezuma Taxi Reservation: Tel. 2642-0000

Sample taxi fares:

• Montezuma to Cobano $10

• Montezuma to Santa Teresa $35

• Montezuma to Paquera $50

• Montezuma to Cabuya $10

Public Bus:

As true for most of the country, public buses in Montezuma are fairly reliable. Schedules are subject to change, so be sure to ask around before making final plans. All buses from Montezuma (except to and from Cabuya) pass through Cobano. From there, buses depart frequently to Santa Teresa/Mal Pais, San Jose, and Paquera, picking up and dropping off at various points along the way. The stop for Cabuya is at the Cabo Blanco Absolute Reserve.

Public Phones

Pay phones are plentiful in town, located in and near the park, just before Hostel Lucy, and near the bus stop. Most are operated by phone card, not coins; purchase a phone card in any pharmacy or grocery store in Costa Rica.

Cell Phones

Cell phone reception is unpredictable around Montezuma’s outskirts, but visitors can find a decent signal in the center of town.

Internet 

Bananet, next to the Sano Banano hotel, offers wireless Internet for around $2 an hour. SunTrails also rents computers with flat screens and offers high speed Internet by the minute. They charge the same rates, and at both places you get to enjoy ice-cold air conditioning – a nice relief from the Costa Rican sun.

Post Office

The library/bookstore in the center of town provides postal services Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 8:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. An official post office is located in Cobano (8:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; closed 12:00 p.m. to 1:00 p.m. Monday-Friday).

Banks

Banco de Costa Rica has an ATM machine in Montezuma, which is out of order more often than not. Local hotels do offer currency exchange services, but their exchange rate is not favorable. The nearest bank is located four miles north in Cobano, where travelers will find a Banco Nacional and ATM on the corner of the main intersection. 

Gas Stations

Full-service gas stations are located in Cobano.

Medical Facilities

The nearest clinics and pharmacies are located in nearby Cobano. There, a doctor is on call 24-hours per day. An ambulance is on stand-by in case of emergencies, servicing Cabuya and Montezuma (Tel. 2380-4125). For all major emergencies in Costa Rica, dial 911. 

Beaches (From north to south):

Playa Cocolito

This white-sand beach just before El Chorro Waterfall is a national treasure. Dramatic rocks separate two swimming areas, where the ocean displays the entire spectrum of blue and green. A freshwater lagoon underneath the palm trees invites tired travelers for a dip. The spectacular view from the rocks surrounding the waterfalls is an enticing reward for the tedious journey to Cocolito. The hike takes between three and four hours by foot. Because it is such a long trek, most people opt to arrive on horseback – a one-hour journey. Wildlife is especially abundant early in the morning, so plan ahead and leave by sunrise to make the most of the day.

Playa Grande

Playa Grande, with its calm turquoise waters and two miles of coastline, is perfect for swimming. Because many people aren’t willing to make the 30-minute trek from Montezuma, Playa Grande is nearly always deserted. Even on busy days, Grande’s enormity helps create space between beachgoers. Horses trot by at low tide, carrying travelers to El Chorro Waterfall. Be sure to pack a lunch, as there are no restaurants or vendors nearby.

Playa Montezuma

There is always something fun happening at Montezuma Beach. Lively beachside restaurants and shops separate two sections of shoreline. Swimmers delight in the warm, tranquil waters lapping in the bay. Montezuma’s sand is pleasantly grainy and thick, and visitors will find a variety of colors and textures walking up and down the beach. Playa Montezuma is a great place to mingle with the town’s local hippie crowd as well as travelers from the world over. Come at sunset to enjoy a cocktail as the vibrant sun disappears behind the horizon.

Playas Las Palmeras and Las Manchas

These two rocky sister beaches, each under a half-mile long, are located just outside of Montezuma on the way to Cobano. They are extremely close and similar in appearance. The pair tends to attract more locals than Montezuma Beach, making it a good choice for those looking to practice their Spanish. There is nothing but a small hotel in the vicinity, so visitors will want to bring a cooler with drinks and snacks. Take care when swimming at Las Manchas, which boasts the area’s best snorkeling. While the waves are normally quite tame, strong rip tides are not uncommon.

Playa Los Cedros

A ten-minute drive south of Montezuma lies Playa Los Cedros, a rocky stretch of the Pacific boasting some of the most dazzling sunsets in the Nicoya Peninsula. Schools of fish make Los Cedros a favorite hunting spot for seabirds, especially enormous pelicans and frigate birds. When low tide coincides with the sunset, pink and blue reflective pools emerge among the rocks. With a decent south swell, Playa Los Cedros offers surfers an impressive right point break. While not as consistent as nearby Santa Teresa, surfers can catch this break on either side of high tide, but should look out for the area’s many jagged rocks.

Playa Cabuya

With golden sands stretching for three miles, Cabuya Beach is the epitome of laid back. Not yet popular among tourists, it is what Mal Pais and Montezuma were 15 years ago: pristine, quiet, and not yet buzzing with people. Calm seas and few rocks make it a wonderful swimming beach. During low tide, a walk out to Cemetery Island is unforgettable. Dating back to pre-Columbian times, the island is the burial site for native Indians. A half-mile long sandbar leads out to this tranquil hideaway, which is nearly always deserted. Visiting such a novelty as a Central American island graveyard is undoubtedly worth the trip, and the excursion only takes about 30 minutes there and back.

Wildlife Refuges and Butterfly Gardens:

Cabo Blanco Absolute Reserve

A wildlife lover’s paradise, Cabo Blanco Absolute Reserve is located seven miles from Montezuma. It is packed with verdant trails, and is home to white-faced and howler monkeys, agoutis, coatimundis, anteaters, white-lipped peccaries, raccoons, and various birds, including the bare-throated tiger heron. Over 39 species of bats also inhabit the reserve. A short trail and one incredibly long path to the beach will be sure to challenge even experienced hikers.

Curu Wildlife Refuge

Just 45 minutes east of Montezuma sits Curu, one of Costa Rica’s most amazing wildlife refuges. The private refuge features 17 peaceful trails crossing a variety of ecosystems, including mangrove swamps and tropical wet and dry forest. Horseback riding, snorkeling, river and ATV tours are among the many exciting activities offered. The refuge is incredibly diverse, and is home to 78 species of mammals, including spider monkeys, coatimundis, whitetail deer, armadillos, collared peccaries, pumas, and kinkajous. It is also home to 87 species of reptiles, 232 species of birds, and over 500 species of plants.

Mariposario Butterfly Garden

Located in downtown Montezuma, The Mariposario Butterfly Garden has 15 different species of butterfly, and specializes in the metallic blue, elegant morpho. The conservatory accepts interns and college students who wish to work with the project in exchange for room and board at the bed and breakfast. (8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Mon-Sun. $8 adults, $6 students, $4 children. 2642-1317)

Waterfalls:

Montezuma Waterfalls

Towering some 80 feet high, the Montezuma Waterfalls are one of the area’s main attractions. The hike there and back can be done in under an hour, although visitors should take their time, as the trail can be slippery. There are three places to pick up the path. The first is near La Cascada Restaurant, over the bridge. Following the road uphill toward Cabuya leads to the second entrance. The third starting point is the shortest, even farther along the paved road at the Mariposario Butterfly Gardens. From here the hike only lasts about 15 minutes.

Cocolito “El Chorro” Waterfall

For those looking for a long and rewarding hike, El Chorro is a wonderful option. The trek lasts about two hours on horseback, or three to four hours on foot, and passes by a number of pristine beaches and a natural swimming hole. The falls are 50 feet tall, and are one of the few freshwater falls in the world that empty directly into the ocean.

Las Lajas Waterfall

Depart south of Montezuma at the Cabuya Bridge to begin the uphill journey to this striking waterfall. Few visitors make the trip because the journey is so draining, making it a rewarding and unique experience. It is at least a two-hour hike each way, so be sure to bring plenty of  water.

La Florida Waterfalls

This set of three gentle falls is one of the most picturesque and little-known attractions in the area. Still relatively undiscovered, the tide pools and rope swing are often completely deserted and private. ATVs and horses are the most comfortable methods of arrival, as the uphill trail makes for an exhausting hike. A trip to La Florida waterfalls requires traversing a bit of private property and following some confusing directions. Hiring a guide to lead the way is highly recommended.

Day Trips:

Cabo Blanco Island

Along Cabuya’s main road sits a little red house that has the freshest raw fish and seafood in town. The family who runs the operation is incredibly friendly, offering boat and fishing tours to the nearby bird island of Cabo Blanco. They also take visitors past a bubbling underwater whirlpool, and all around the reserve. Fruit, water, snacks and fishing supplies are included in the affordable rate.

Turtle Island (Isla Tortuga)

Isla Tortuga offers some of the most phenomenal snorkeling and scuba diving in Costa Rica, and this day trip should not be missed. A 45-minute boat ride departs from the main beach at Montezuma, and passes El Chorro waterfall, allowing glimpses of dolphins along the way. At the island, underwater adventurers find crystal clear waters, colorful fish and other interesting sea life. Above ground, parrots, peccaries and monkeys inhabit the island’s palm-fringed beaches. A gourmet barbeque with beer and soft drinks is served before another round of snorkeling and the scenic boat ride back to the mainland.

Karen Mogensen Nature Reserve

This private nature reserve, located 46 miles north of Montezuma, encompasses 2,500 acres of primary forest and reclaimed farmland that the reserve has reforested. The refuge is home to hundreds of animal species including white-faced monkeys, deer, ocelots, otters, howler monkeys and pumas. The Karen Mogensen Nature Reserve also has excellent birdwatching, and more than 240 species – three-wattled bellbirds, spectacled owls, and motmots among them – have been spotted here. 

ATV Tours

The best way to explore Montezuma’s beaches and country roads is on an all-terrain vehicle. They are inexpensive to rent for a half or full day’s solo adventure, but consider hiring a guide to access the area's best trails. A notable tour includes an exhilarating ride from Tambor to La Florida Waterfalls in Montezuma.

Bird & Wildlife Watching

Cabo Blanco Reserve and Curu Wildlife Refuge are not the only guaranteed bird and wildlife watching spots. Even stumbling around downtown Montezuma can provide opportunities to see fascinating creatures such as vine snakes, Jesus Christ lizards, bare-throated tiger herons, motmots, and magpie jays.

Canopy Tours

Montezuma’s canopy tour zooms through the rainforest, passing by several tumbling waterfalls. It features nine cables and eleven platforms, covering 3,937 feet and ending at the Montezuma Falls where visitors can stop for a refreshing swim.

Day Spa Treatments

Indulge in a relaxing massage in one of the town’s day spas. An extensive treatment menu includes Swedish massage, deep tissue massage, and somatic bodywork.

Hiking

Cabo Blanco Absolute Reserve offers some good hiking trails, but Montezuma’s most popular path leads to the beautiful Montezuma Waterfall. The hike is at times steep and strenuous, but only lasts about 30 minutes each way. Wear sturdy shoes, as there are several fun river crossings en route. There have been reported injuries from jumping off the 80-foot falls; heed local advice and stick to swimming in the pools below. Keep in mind that the nearest clinic is miles away in Cobano.

Horseback Riding

Horseback riding to El Chorro Waterfall takes about two hours there and an hour and a half back. El Chorro is one of the few freshwater falls that empties directly into the ocean. Tours leave daily at low tide.

Kayaking

Kayak tours around Montezuma beach and out to Cabuya Island are soothing and fun. Sometimes dolphins, sea turtles, and whales glide by, seemingly posing for photographs. A fascinating mini-whirlpool near Cabuya Island is well worth the trip. 

Mountain Biking

Explore the area’s paved roads and nearby towns on a mountain bike, available for rent in downtown Montezuma for $15 per day. Unfortunately, it is impossible to take these bikes near the water, as they are not beach combers and sand will clog the gears.

Photography Tour

Costa Rica Color offers photography workshops and in-depth tours that focus on natural lighting, long exposures and capturing scenes from the great outdoors. Spend a few hours tweaking your macro photography skills; learn how to snap night shots; or embark on tours to explore Montezuma's beaches, streams, and wildlife reserve.

Snorkeling & Scuba Diving

Snorkeling and scuba diving at Isla Tortuga and Curu Wildlife Refuge are unforgettable experiences. A wide variety of fish, moray eels, turtles, lobsters, octopus, and sea urchins inhabit the area. Book a half or full-day tour with local operators.

Sport Fishing

Inshore and offshore fishing excursions are offered on comfortable 26 to 35 ft. boats. Guests are in the hands of experienced captains who know the best spots for big game fish. Common catches include yellow and black-fin tuna, red snapper, grouper, striped and black marlin, snook, and mahi mahi. Anglers have the option of cooking their catch on the boat (or sampling the freshest sushi in town), or saving their prize for later.

Surfing

With a decent south swell, Playa Los Cedros offers surfers an impressive right point break. While not as consistent as nearby Santa Teresa, surfers can catch this break on either side of high tide, but should look out for the area’s many jagged rocks. Seasoned surfers are better off trying their luck at the nearby beaches of Santa Teresa and Mal Pais. Buses run to Cobano frequently, and from there it is a 20-minute ride to Santa Teresa and Mal Pais. 

Yoga

Relax the body and the mind with Montezuma’s enlightening yoga classes. Many studios are located on spacious outdoor pavilions, just a stone’s throw away from the Pacific Ocean. Classes run $10-$15 for a one and a half hour session, but prices drop if bought in packages of ten or more.

Air:

Domestic airlines Sansa and Nature Air both make the half hour flight from San Jose to Tambor. From there, Montezuma can be reached in 30-40 minutes by car.

Boat:

Boat taxis are becoming the transport of choice between Montezuma and the central Pacific beach town of Jaco. The one-hour journey provides ample opportunities to view sea turtles, rays, whales and dolphins while zipping along the ocean in a high-powered speedboat. Boats can hold up to 18 passengers, are operated by bilingual guides, and have an overhead canopy for shade. Rates usually run about $40 per adult, and if the boat has space, last minute walk-ins are welcome. Passengers from 0-3 years of age are free; 3-10 years of age are $30. Surfboards have a $10 fee, and bicycles cost $30 extra. The entire boat can be rented for $400 (1-5 people) or $500 (up to 10 passengers), with a $40 charge for additional passengers.

Bus:

Direct buses depart the Coca Cola Station in San Jose at 6:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. for the five-hour journey to Montezuma. Buses cross the scenic Gulf of Nicoya via ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera. The cost is around $13.50 and includes the ferry fee. (Transportes Rodriguez Tel: 2221-7479) From Montezuma, buses depart daily for San Jose at 6:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.

Car:

From Alajuela or San Jose, take the Caldera Highway west to Puntarenas. From there, take the ferry across the Gulf of Nicoya to the town of Paquera. The ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera runs at 5:00 a.m., 9:00 a.m. and 11:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m., 5:00 p.m., and 8:30 p.m.; the current rate is about $1.60 for an adult passenger, $1 for children, $4.50 for bicycles, $7 for a motorcycle, $13.50 for a quad, and $22.50 for a car. Call ahead to check for schedule changes. (Ferry: Naviera Tambor tel. 2661-2084) From Paquera, drive 20 miles to Cobano and continue four miles south to Montezuma.

Coming from the Guanacaste region, the Puntarenas route is also recommended. The journey via the mainland to Naranjo and then down to Paquera looks shorter on the map. In reality, it is not. The road conditions from Naranjo to Paquera are poor, making the Puntarenas ferry your best bet.

From Samara and the coastal towns of Guanacaste, it is sometimes possible only in the driest part of the dry season (December through April) to take the seaside road leading south through Samara, Carillo, Punta Islita, Coyote, and finally Mal Pais. From there, it is possible to take a shortcut to Cabuya and Montezuma during the dry season – otherwise a stopover in Cobano is inevitable.

The Bongo River often blocks the path just before Mal Pais, so be sure to ask directions. Because driving through rivers is mandatory, this route can be hazardous and is not recommended. This journey is especially risky in a rental car, which can incur large fines for traversing rivers. 

Montezuma has a variety of upscale, mid-price and budget accommodations. Hotels range from quaint to luxurious, many with air conditioning, Internet, and cable television. Places on the outskirts of town are better for travelers with cars or bicycles, as the hills are somewhat steep and difficult to traverse in the heat of the day. Air conditioning is not an absolute necessity, especially at night when sea breezes cool the temperature to a comfortable level.

Cabuya

For those looking for peace and quiet, another option is located just five miles southwest of Montezuma. With a palm-fringed shoreline stretching for three miles, the charming town of Cabuya is a secluded locale where time seems to have frozen.

Cabuya offers a small selection of attractive lodging options. Most are beachfront properties that are very reasonably priced. The town is also an excellent base for exploring the nearby Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve.