Mal Pais and Santa Teresa

General Information:

Location: Southern Nicoya Peninsula; 30 miles from Paquera; 8 miles south of Montezuma

Weather: Warm and sunny with temperate evenings. The dry season runs from December – April.

Temperatures: Daily averages between 77 and 86 °F

Altitude: Sea level

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About:

Legendary surf breaks and broad stretches of rugged coastline have made Mal Pais and Santa Teresa one of the country’s most coveted surfing destinations. A large number of North Americans, Israelis and Argentineans have settled here, mingling with the Costa Rican culture and giving the town a cosmopolitan flair. Situated on the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, the former fishing hamlet of Santa Teresa has grown into a bustling international community that boasts a slew of adventure activities, steady waves and sublime sunsets over the Pacific.

Serious and amateur anglers alike come to fish the warm waters for mahi mahi, snook and tuna. Reliable winds attract kite surfers, while sunbathers flock to the pristine beaches of Mal Pais, El Carmen, Santa Teresa, and Hermosa. Troops of playful white-faced monkeys, massive green iguanas and tropical birds are easily spotted amid the lush forest that lines the beach. Visitors to this stunning wilderness can ride horseback along backcountry roads, explore Playa Santa Teresa’s rocky tide pools, or fly through the jungle on a canopy tour.

Mal Pais, or “Bad Country,” has become an all-encompassing term for both Mal Pais and its sister village, Santa Teresa. In fact, they are so closely linked that the two are rapidly becoming one, although Santa Teresa remains the more developed of the pair. Both beach towns parallel the shore, stretched along a single rocky road.  Where the street from Cobano dead ends, the road splits. Everything four miles north of this junction is considered Santa Teresa, and everything five miles south is regarded as Mal Pais. The area offers little in terms of local transport, but luckily most attractions are within walking distance. Because taxis are rare and the road is dusty, many visitors opt to get around town on rented bicycles or all-terrain vehicles.

Several restaurants, shops, resorts, bed and breakfasts and tour operators have popped up in recent years. Their modern amenities compliment the area’s laid-back surfer scene to create the ultimate Costa Rican getaway. While English speakers are abundant, Mal Pais has remained undeveloped compared to the booming surf towns of Jaco or Tamarindo, where high rise buildings paint the skyline.

Due to its remote location, half of the adventure is getting to Mal Pais. If coming from San Jose, take the scenic route from Puntarenas to Paquera, which includes a relaxing ferry trip across the calm Gulf of Nicoya.  Travelers arriving overland from coastal Guanacaste towns should note that 4WD is recommended during the rainy season months of May through November, as several river crossings may be required.

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