Bocas del Toro Sunset

We traveled by bus from the Pacific to the southern Caribbean coast in just under nine hours. Our destinations were Bocas del Toro, Panama and Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica. I had heard that both of these locations are big party towns, but truly had no idea what to expect. As a PADI certified advanced diver, I was looking forward to diving the Caribbean’s crystal clear waters – and to earning my Rescue Diver status, the next rung on the scuba certification ladder.

Since my friend Kim and I had never ventured south of Costa Rica, Panama was a completely new frontier. We cautiously tread the rickety bridge that marks the border between these Central American neighbors, and took a 30 minute water taxi to the archipelago known of Bocas del Toro (which in English means “mouths of the bull”). Here, Kim snorkeled while I scuba dived among the vibrant coral gardens of the tropics.

Green Coral

In the Caribbean, corals take many forms: from intricate mazes of neon green to bright purple, feathery leaves. I explored one of the most impressive shipwrecks in the area, complete with an incongruous toilet amidst a cloud of  beautiful algae and fish. The nightlife in Bocas del Toro was unique.  Each bar felt familiar, like a house party thrown by an old college roommate. We particularly liked the Aqua Lounge, with its young crowd and ocean-water pool. Everyone that we met traveling through Bocas – and I do mean everyone – was especially outgoing and friendly.

Female Parrotfish

Despite our fun in Panama, Kim and I are “Ticas” at heart – and after a few days we looked forward to returning to our adopted homeland of Costa Rica. Shortly after crossing the border, we parted ways. I was off to Puerto Viejo, and Kim continued north to San Jose.

When I arrived in Puerto Viejo, I took a walk to get to know the area - and within minutes was invited to an impromptu feast of exotic Asian fruits at the local community center. I appreciated this typical Costa Rican hospitality now more than ever.

Fish at Shipwreck

Then, it was time to dive. Having never experienced a five-star diving center before,  I was impressed by Crocodive’s Playa Chiquita facility. Padded masks, gender specific wetsuits, and high-end BCD jackets were just a few of the touches to which I would become accustomed during my five-day stay in Puerto Viejo.

While diving the coral gardens of Punta Uva, we saw enormous lobsters, otherworldly anemones, non-indigenous lion fish, and even a branch of rare black coral – which is purportedly more valuable than gold. After all of this and a chocolate decadence spa treatment, it was time to head back to the Pacific. I couldn’t make up my mind as to which coast I preferred to dive – but had a long, sleepy bus ride ahead of me to figure it out.

Stay tuned for all 8 days of my adventure!

Day 1: Sixaola-Panama Border Crossing
Day 2: Under the Caribbean Sea
Day 3: Starfish, Bubbles and Bars
Day 4: Shipwreck!
Day 5: Rescue Diver Certification
Day 6: Navigating a Coral Maze
Day 7: Chocolate Decadence & the Punta Uva Gardens
Day 8: Living with Lionfish

For more information, see our Puerto Viejo travel guide.