Costa Rica Vacation Journals

Day 8: Cloud Forests and Mystic Lagoons of Poas Volcano

2008-06-24T07:33:00.010-06:00

Poasito and Vara Blanca

My journey home from Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui conveniently passed the cloud forest town of Poasito, home to Poas Volcano National Park. Looming 23 miles north of Alajuela, Poas Volcano is one of Costa Rica’s five active volcanoes and boasts one of the largest craters on earth.

As I approached the lower slopes of Poas, climbing from 4,500 to over 9,000 feet above sea level, a noticeable chill filled the air. I drove through rolling hills sprinkled with dairy farms and waved at local growers touting their beautiful, fresh strawberries.

The crowds were surprisingly small considering this is one of the most visited national parks in Costa Rica. Its proximity to San Jose and spectacular view of the second-widest crater (9/10th of a mile) in the world draw more than 250,000 visitors each year.

Gazing at the emerald green Botos lagoon, I had to remind myself that Poas was indeed an active volcano. In fact, Poas has erupted several times over the past century, sending massive ash clouds into the air. The park is blanketed in giant ferns and poor man’s umbrella plants, their leaves nearly three feet in diameter. The acid rains generated by the volcano allow few other species to flourish in the area.

From the lookout to the crater, I could smell the sulphuric gas that gurgled from the volcanic fumaroles. The crater was only partially obstructed by clouds, which quickly rolled in and out throughout the morning.

I hiked a couple of the park’s cloud forest trails to other dormant lagoons, and later visited an onsite museum that chronicles the history of the volcano. Without a doubt, the best time to visit Poas is during the dry season (December through April), when crater visibility is most consistent. Although I was visiting in July, during peak rainy season, I still managed to get a glimpse of the crater.

Following the scenic road towards Vara Blanca, I stopped for the evening at Poas Volcano Lodge, a delightful inn that I had always wanted to visit. Nestled between Poas and Barva volcanoes, the lodge sits on a high-altitude ridge which divides the country’s Pacific and Atlantic zones.

Built in 1970 by Briton Michael Cannon and his wife, the lodge’s architecture conjures up images of an English cottage with its exposed beam ceilings, sweeping arches and rough-hewn walls made of stone. What began as a family homestead transformed over the years into an intimate lodge with twelve well-appointed rooms.

My junior suite came equipped with a large bathtub, in-room heater, wireless internet and a French Press for morning coffee or tea. Rates at the lodge also include their famous farmhouse breakfast, complete with home-baked bread and fresh milk from the dairy.

I couldn’t help but feel like I was in the English countryside. Docile dairy cows mingled on the property’s working dairy farm which encompasses miles of green pastures along the foothills of Poas Volcano. That afternoon I took a stroll on one of the lodge’s trails, where guests can often spot black-chested hawks, bush tanagers, scintillant hummingbirds, mountain robins and the emerald toucanet.

Later on, I joined other guests in the lodge’s living room where folks relaxed around a large sunken fireplace. Kids occupied themselves in the games room which had a billiard table, ping-pong, darts and plenty of board games. After a warming glass of wine by the fire, I sat down with our gregarious host Michael for a gourmet feast served family-style.

At our table of six, stories were swapped and emails exchanged as we shared fellow travel experiences. Warmed by the wine and good conversation, I thought this a perfect ending to an already remarkable trip.

Contact Info:

Poas Volcano Lodge
Email: info@poasvolcanolodge.com
Telephone: (506) 2 482-2194
www.poasvolcanolodge.com

Day 7: The Tropical Gardens of Heliconia Island

2008-06-23T18:35:00.012-06:00

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

Continuing my theme of culinary tours, I decided to pay a visit to one of Puerto Viejo’s newest gastronomic attractions – the Black Pepper Tour. Located in Rancho Chilamate less than six miles outside of town, the tour includes a sampling of black pepper-infused ice cream and lunch prepared with heaps of the savory spice.

Following signs from the main highway, I showed up unannounced at the black pepper farm of Don Carlos. I introduced myself to the hard-working family patriarch, who offered to give me a personal tour of the farm after he finished chasing down a few stubborn pigs. As I watched Carlos and his wife herd chickens into a makeshift coop, I realized how much I appreciate Mom and Pop operations. This was a far cry from the polished affairs catering to bus loads of tourists, and I loved every minute of it.

Carlos assured me that with prior reservation, I would have been greeted by the farm’s bilingual guide. Instead, I practiced my Spanish as Carlos and I toured the trails, tasting the zesty green pepper berries which would later be harvested and dried. Native to southern India, black pepper plants were introduced to the Sarapiqui region in the late 1970’s and have flourished ever since.

I learned when and how the unripe berries are dried to make peppercorns, which are then sold whole or coarsely-ground. This well-known seasoning has played a vital role in culinary history. Pepper was once so valuable that it was used as currency, and it was considered a spice exclusively for the rich. Luckily, times have changed, and small-scale growers like Carlos allow glimpses into the history and future of the black pepper trade. The slow-cooked peppered steak lunch was worth the trip alone, but the company of Don Carlos and his family made this home-spun tour one of the most interesting in my travels.

My destination for the evening was Heliconia Island, a tour de force in tropical gardening situated 15 minutes south of Puerto Viejo. Lovingly run by Dutch couple Henk and Carolien, the five-acre island is lush with more than 70 species of heliconia, as well as gingers, bromeliads and ornamental plants. The island was created by a split in the Puerto Viejo River and is only accessible via a wooden footbridge.

I parked my car at the base of the bridge, eager to explore this sanctuary of peace and beauty. Carolien and Henk, along with their three playful dogs, escorted me on a garden tour. We walked under towering bamboo groves and giant ferns, and admired the brilliant colors of each heliconia and orchid. Some had funny names like sexy scarlet and Barnum and Bailey’s, and each revealed some sort of special adaptation. Carolien pointed out an array of unusual species native to other tropical countries and seldom seen in Costa Rica.

The couple also runs a newly-built bed and breakfast on the island. I slept in one of the four spacious suites, each with views of the gardens. The rooms featured unique bamboo furniture, rustic stone floors, A/C, orthopedic mattresses and super hot showers.

We settled in for a hot cup of tea just as the afternoon rains began. From their river-view restaurant, we watched honeycreepers, tanagers, clay-colored robins and iguanas nibble on bananas left on wooden platforms. I watched the river rise slightly as the rain saturated the island, producing that fresh earthy scent that I love so much.

After a delicious dinner (prepared on request by Carolien), we all decided to turn in early. We joked about how our sleeping patterns have altered since moving to Costa Rica, a country with no daylight savings. The sun always rises and sets at 6, so 9 p.m. often feels much later than it is. I listened to the hum of frogs and other night creatures as I walked back to my room where the soft patter of rain lulled me to sleep.

Contact Info:

Heliconia Island
Email: info@heliconiaisland.com
Telephone: (506) 276-45220
www.heliconiaisland.com

Black Pepper Tour
Rancho Chilamate
Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui
Telephone: (506) 2 761-0024
www.costarica.pymes.com

Day 6: Sweet Pineapples at Collin Street Bakery

2008-06-23T09:05:00.007-06:00

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

The word “bakery” sealed the deal for me. In a country filled with panaderias, all producing delicious scents of baking bread, cakes and cookies, the processed baguettes and dry cake have always been a disappointment (with the exception of tres leches, an addictively sweet dessert). I craved a moist cake; one with thick icing made from real butter and sugar, and figured Collin Street Bakery would deliver the goods.

I wasn’t quite sure of their connection with pineapples. I had, after all, signed up for their pineapple tour. But I was game for anything, as long as it involved some sort of delicious baked good.

As you approach Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, you can’t help but notice the rambling fields of pineapple plants. The San Carlos plains, which extend from La Virgen de Sarapiqui to the town of Pital, provide the ideal climate and rainfall levels for pineapple production. Spurred by the increasing interest in educational and ecotourism, Collin Street Bakery of Corsicana, Texas, built a tourist facility in 2005 to welcome visitors to their pineapple farm in Costa Rica.

The 3000 acre farm was founded in 1991 to ensure the highest quality pineapple and papaya for the bakery’s famous fruit cake and other specialty items. Finca Corsicana features an outdoor restaurant and tourist center, and a tour of the entire pineapple harvesting process, from start to finish.

Along with 25 other visitors, I learned how pineapples came to be the fruit of kings, and how cultivating techniques evolved over time. Pulled by a customized tractor that evoked hayride memories, we motored through parts of the farm as we sampled fresh organic pineapple and watched workers harvest the fruit. Our group earned extra points for coolness by donning lunch lady hair nets before touring the processing and packing facility. The tour concluded with samples of Collin Street Bakery’s tasty fruit cake that we washed down with creamy pina coladas.

That evening, I returned to the comfort of Posada Christina Andrea B & B, where I chatted with a few of the inn’s other guests. The B&B serves one of the finest breakfasts in town, which includes homemade wheat bread, fresh fruits and eggs cooked any style. Owner Alex suggested I dine at La Casona, a popular Costa Rican-style restaurant that specializes in fresh seafood and meats. The garlic jumbo shrimp dinner was fabulous, and the restaurant’s traditional meals are served in a funky, open-air rancho reminiscent of the farming tradition that inspires the entire area.

Contact Info:

Posada Christina Andrea B & B
Email: alex6265@hotmail.com
Telephone: (506) 2 766-6265
www.andreacristina.com

Collin Street Bakery’s Pineapple Tour
Email: pineappletour@fincacorsicana.co.cr
Telephone: (506) 8 820-6489
www.collinstreet.com/pages/finca_corsicana_home

Day 5: Kayaking the Sarapiqui River

2008-06-22T09:01:00.011-06:00

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

For more than half a century, major crops like coffee and bananas were transported from the Central Valley and Caribbean slopes to the coast via the Sarapiqui River. The scenic river originates on the Deception Depression between Barva and Poas volcanoes and flows 53 miles into the San Juan River, which continues into Nicaragua. At that time, the waterside community of Puerto Viejo was a one of the largest ports in Costa Rica.

Today, the river is plied by whitewater rafters and kayakers seeking the thrills of Class II-IV rapids. What began as a low-key destination for only the most intrepid has transformed into one of the country’s most promising ecotourism hot spots. The Sarapiqui and its sister rivers, the Sardinal and Puerto Viejo, also have calm Class I sections, where tourists can glide gently in motorized boats, or paddle in canoes while observing local wildlife.

While the majority of visitors, both young and young at heart, attempt Class II and III rapids, I opted for a more peaceful safari float with Aventuras del Sarapiqui. With over 15 years of rafting experience, their guides were experts in river safety, and their enthusiasm for challenging whitewater was contagious. This morning we would be paddling inflatable kayaks (a.k.a. duckies) down the lower section of the river.

After tackling a couple of mild Class II rapids, which my guide and I skillfully maneuvered, we settled into a smooth stretch of glassy river where we spotted several herons, cormorants and crocodiles sunning themselves on the river’s edge. We snacked on fresh pineapple as we floated along, soaking up the sun’s warmth and the natural beauty around us. Our two-hour excursion was the perfect combination of fun yet gentle rapids and great wildlife watching opportunities. I promised I’d return another day to join Aventura del Sarapiqui’s Class III whitewater adventure.

I motored back into town for a quick lunch at one of the small sodas fronting the main street. For just a few dollars, soda patrons can savor a huge and healthy meal of grilled chicken or fish, salad and rice. What Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui lacks in amenities, it makes up for in charm and local hospitality.

Taxi drivers and store owners are quick to smile and love to practice their English with willing tourists. The village has several supermarkets, pharmacies, internet cafes and a nice souvenir store. And a couple of the larger hotels now offer wireless internet. Despite these modern comforts, Puerto Viejo still has a sleepy feel about it, and Ticos far outnumber gringos on the streets.

Later that afternoon I met up with Alex Martinez, a passionate conservationist and owner of Posada Andrea Cristina Bed and Breakfast, located on the outskirts of town. Locally-famous for his pioneering efforts to protect and conserve wildlife, Alex has created a home-grown rescue center and reserve for orphaned, injured or otherwise homeless animals. Known as Tierra Hermosa, the reserve offers a safe environment for the rehabilitation of birds and other species confiscated from poachers, with the hope of release in the future.

Tierra Hermosa is located on 10 acres of lowland rainforest, about 15 minutes outside of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui. The reserve largely depends on donations and volunteer efforts to help with animal care, cage construction and daily maintenance.

Alex and his family run the colorful Andrea Cristina B & B, complete with four spacious cabins and two bungalows surrounded by tropical gardens. The bungalows are painted in bright Caribbean colors with fabulous murals on the walls. Alex prides himself on providing clean, inviting rooms at an affordable price with no pretense of luxury – just good conversations and home-cooked meals.

Alex and his son (who both speak fluent English) are excellent birders and naturalist guides, and can arrange a variety of tours throughout the country. In the company of several rescued green parrots, which are lovingly fed and cared for, I spent the better part of the early evening talking with Alex about life and all creatures great and small.

Contact Info:

Posada Cristina Andrea B & B
Email: alex6265@hotmail.com
Telephone: (506) 2 766-6265
www.andreacristina.com

Tierra Hermosa Wildlife Reserve:
www.tierrahermosacenter.org

Aventuras del Sarapiqui
Email: aventuras@sarapiqui.com
Telephone: (506) 2 766-6768
www.sarapiqui.com

Day 4: Tirimbina Rainforest Center: Chocolate Tour and Bat Program

2008-06-21T11:33:00.007-06:00

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

As I drove to Tirimbina Rainforest Center for an 8 a.m. chocolate tour, I could think of few better ways to start the day. I was about to discover the secrets behind one of the world’s most tantalizing treats – a food rich in both flavor in history.

Tirimbina, which protects more than 890 acres of rainforest, offers a variety of tours as well as research opportunities, internships and workshops. The nonprofit center has been declared a national wildlife refuge and promotes sustainable ecotourism with its educational tours and programs.

The Chocolate Tour is one of the center’s newest and most popular tours. It reveals the natural history of this ancient food and the entire chocolate-making process, from harvest to the ultimate tasting of cocoa and organic chocolate in its purist form. We first explored a former cacao plantation, where we tasted the sweet pulp of the fleshy cacao fruit.

Using some of the same tools as the Maya and Aztecs, workers fermented the cacao beans, dried and roasted them, and then crushed them into a fine cocoa powder. Sugar, cinnamon and chili pepper were added to create a savory hot cocoa blend. We then sampled dark and milk chocolate, the delectable flavors unlike any store-bought variety.

That evening I returned for Tirimbina’s evening bat program, which began with a 30-minute presentation on general bat information. I learned that these highly evolved creatures, which account for more than 50 % of Costa Rica’s total mammal population, play an important role as pollinators in the ecosystem. Many plants depend completely on bats for seed dispersal.

Costa Rica has more than 100 species of bats, and 70 of those species can be found at Tirimbina Rainforest Center. While some bats eat insects or feast on blood, most species feed primarily on fruit, pollen and nectar.

With the aid of humane nets, the staff had captured a large and very aggressive false vampire bat, along with a more docile common tent-making bat. Wearing thick leather gloves, our guide gently held each flying mammal so that we could closely observe their wings and odd little faces. The false vampire bat, with its menacing teeth, was a rare find, and we were all grateful to learn about these remarkable animals.

This was my last evening at Selva Verde Lodge, and I spent the afternoon exploring its lush botanical gardens and self-guided trails. Everywhere I looked, I saw vibrant green and black poison dart frogs.

I came to differentiate their call from that of the strawberry dart frog, and soon became an expert in finding their hideouts. While a guide is always helpful in spotting elusive animals, the wildlife at Selva Verde Lodge was so prolific (snakes, frogs, monkeys and toucans) that even amateurs can feel like professional biologists in a primeval world.

Contact Info:
Selva Verde Lodge & Rainforest Reserve
Email: info@selvaverde.com
Telephone: (506) 2 766 6800
From USA 800-451-7111
www.selvaverde.com

Tirimbina Rainforest Center
Email: info@tirimbina.com
Telephone: (506) 2 761-1579
www.tirimbina.org

Day 3: A Morning Cabalgata

2008-06-20T15:55:00.004-06:00

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

One of the main attractions at Hacienda Pozo Azul is their cabalgata, an easy horseback ride through small streams and backcountry roads, with opportunities to gallop along the way. I joined a group of seven other travelers, all with varying degrees of riding experience, for our morning cowboy adventure.

Our mounts were criollo horses, a well-tempered breed with Spanish and Peruvian bloodlines common in Costa Rica. While a bit on the small side, criollos are sturdy and sure-footed, perfect for children or the novice rider. After a short tutorial on how to steer and halt our steeds, we set off for a two-hour exploration of the countryside.

We reached a large grassy meadow where we spurred our horses to a gallop and raced back and forth, cheering and laughing the whole time. The loop trail continued up a steep muddy path to the banks of the Sarapiqui River before circling back to the stables at Hacienda Pozo Azul. Along the way, we chatted with our guides who pointed out the deep, throaty call of nearby howler monkeys and a colorful poison dart frog.

Back at the ranch, a group of students were gearing up for a rafting trip down the Sarapiqui River, one of Pozo Azul’s most popular tours. From the river bridge, I watched the paddlers excitedly begin their 13-kilometer adventure down Class II and III rapids with names like “the roller coaster” and “ay, caramba!”

I headed back toward Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui and stopped at Selva Verde Lodge, just a few miles outside the center of town. Surrounded by 570 acres of protected rainforest, this popular lodge was founded in 1985 by the Holbrook family, and was one of the first true “eco-lodges” in the region.

The sprawling grounds are home to a primary rainforest reserve, several hiking trails, a botanical garden, swimming pool and butterfly gallery. The accommodations are rustic but comfortable with nice touches like pillow-top mattresses and high-quality linens. My room was part of the river lodge, built up on platforms above the forest floor and connected to other buildings by a series of covered walkways. All of the rooms had wrap-around balconies and hammocks for relaxing outside.

The Holbrooks also run the nonprofit Sarapiqui Conservation Learning Center (located next to Selva Verde Lodge), which strives to promote community development and sustainable tourism in the region. With the help of volunteers, the center teaches English and environmental education to community groups of all ages. The center also supports reforestation programs that work with small landowners and schools.

Unfortunately, I had just missed the Selva Verde's 4 p.m. birding tour with their resident naturalist guide. Visitors typically see everything from woodpeckers and toucans to the brilliant rufous-tailed hummingbird. That evening I joined other guests for a tasty buffet dinner at the lodge’s open-air dining room and bar overlooking the Sarapiqui River.

Next to the dining area, a suspension bridge leads to a massive rainforest reserve, where lucky hikers can spot spider monkeys, agoutis, river otters and even ocelots with the help of a guide. As I walked back to my room, quick flashes of red revealed tiny strawberry dart frogs along the sides of the path. They hid under leaf litter and inside wet bromeliad leaves, chirping a soft rainforest harmony.

Contact Info:

Selva Verde Lodge
& Rainforest Reserve
Email: info@selvaverde.com
Telephone: (506) 2 766 6800
From USA 800-451-7111
www.selvaverde.com

Hacienda Pozo Azul
Email: info@pozoazul.com
Telephone: (506) 2 438-2616
From USA 1-877-810-6903
www.pozoazul.com

Day 2: Adventure at Hacienda Pozo Azul

2008-06-19T15:51:00.011-06:00

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

The telltale warble of an oropendola gently woke me at 7 a.m. Thinking myself an early riser, I was surprised to discover that all of the other guests at Hotel Gavilan Rio Sarapiqui were long gone. They had already devoured their morning gallo pinto (rice and beans) and departed for another day of adventure.

I left Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui and drove 20 minutes in the direction of La Virgen to Hacienda Pozo Azul – a 2000 acre working ranch and adventure center. From mountain biking and whitewater rafting to canopy tours and horseback rides, Pozo Azul is the ultimate adventure destination. Thrill-seekers looking for that next adrenaline rush can rappel down the Sarapiqui River canyon or zoom 1000 feet across the river on a zip-line canopy tour.

Before joining their canopy tour, I had a couple of hours to explore the ranch’s butterfly gallery, hiking trails (complete with Indiana Jones-style suspension bridges) and frog garden, where I got up close and personal with a few strawberry poison dart frogs, commonly called blue jeans for their vibrant indigo legs.

Our group of 20 (small by Hacienda Pozo Azul standards) geared up in helmets and harnesses, eager to speed above the canopy on one of the country’s safest zip-line tours. Our friendly guides gave us a quick rundown on safety procedures before confidently clipping us in to the first of our nine zip lines. The cables ranged from 200-1000 feet in length, and most were 80-100 feet off the ground, high enough to get butterflies in our stomachs as we soared from one platform to the next.

I was flying alongside a group of students from North Carolina who cheerfully screamed varying forms of “Pura Vida!”(perhaps one time too many) as they took to the skies. The last cable carried us 1000 feet across the Sarapiqui River, depositing our shaking bodies right next to the parking lot, where friends and family stood watching our smiling faces as we made the final descent.

Hacienda Pozo Azul is owned and run by the Quintanas, a Costa Rican family of nature lovers and entrepreneurs who clearly had great visions of ecotourism and adventure for this budding vacation destination. I was impressed by the genuine friendliness and hospitality of the ranch’s staff and guides, and was looking forward to my horseback ride with them the following day.

It was late afternoon by the time I returned to Hotel Gavilan. Even though my travels were smack dab in the middle of the rainy season, I had been super lucky with the weather. The region of Sarapiqui is a true rainforest ecosystem, with no distinct wet or dry season (much like La Fortuna and Arenal), as it rains year-round. There are drier months, of course, but most days see at least some rainfall.

I took advantage of the hotel’s empty Jacuzzi and enjoyed a sunset soak before dinner. Other guests straggled in as the light began to fade, and everyone gathered in the outdoor dining area for drinks and conversation. The hotel has both standard and superior suites, and will soon have four new rooms overlooking the lush gardens. Hotel Gavilan Rio Sarapiqui is perfect for visitors seeking a quiet and intimate lodge, with great wildlife watching and a homey atmosphere.

Contact Info:

Hotel Gavilan Rio Sarapiqui
Email: gavilan@racsa.co.cr
Telephone: (506) 2 766-7131
or (506) 8 383-5627
www.gavilanlodge.com

Hacienda Pozo Azul
Email: info@pozoazul.com
Telephone: (506) 2 438-2616
From USA 1-877-810-6903
www.pozoazul.com

Day 1: Journey to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui

2008-06-18T15:37:00.007-06:00

I took the scenic route to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, a small riverside community located in the northeastern corner of Costa Rica, less than 20 miles south of the Nicaraguan border. The budding town lies at the base of the Cordillera Central Mountain Range and is quickly becoming a popular eco-tourism destination for both wildlife enthusiasts and thrill-seekers.

Situated at the junction of the Sarapiqui and Puerto Viejo Rivers, the village of Puerto Viejo (not to be confused with the southern Caribbean town of the same name) offers sensational Class III-IV whitewater rafting along with a slew of other adventure sports.

Via Alajuela, the picturesque journey wended along backcountry roads, past coffee plantations and over rolling hills divided into a quilt-like patchwork of strawberry farms and ornamental plants growing under huge shade tents. I followed signs for Poas Volcano, passing the greenest of pastures dotted with good-natured Holstein cows. In the span of an hour, I had left the warmth of the Central Valley and had ascended into the cool and misty cloud forests near Vara Blanca, where I paused for a moment to admire the towering La Paz waterfall.

The rains held off as I made my way northeast to the lowlands of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui. I descended into the flat plains of the Caribbean Zone, the landscape dominated by pineapple plantations and coconut palms. I arrived in the outwardly sleepy town of La Virgen, about ten miles south of Puerto Viejo. Here I discovered the region’s nexus of adventure sports and cultural activities, where visitors could fly high on a canopy tour, explore the rainforest, or learn about indigenous cultures.

I made a pit stop at Centro Neotropico Sarapiquis, a unique combination of eco-lodge, museum, archeological park, education center and botanical gardens. The center’s mission is to integrate education, conservation and scientific research in the hopes of creating a hub for further conservation and sustainable tourism.

The museum narrates the history of the rainforest and man through a combination of videos and exhibits, focusing on the plight of Costa Rica’s indigenous tribes. Beautiful pottery, musical instruments and other indigenous artifacts were on display. From the museum, I walked over to the Alma Ata Archeological Park where petroglyph reproductions, ancient stone sculptures and a Pre-Columbian burial field provided insight into 15th century life in Costa Rica.

Continuing north to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, I was pleased to discover that little had changed in the eight years since my last visit. A few more restaurants and tour companies had sprung up, but rampant tourism had yet to infiltrate and transform the town. I was quick to notice that English was still a novelty, spoken mainly among hotel staff and tour operators.

My home for the next two evenings was Hotel Gavilan Rio Sarapiqui, a veritable birdwatchers’ bliss, where acres of landscaped gardens allowed guests a peaceful rest on the outskirts of town. Owned and operated by the very energetic Tica, Mariamala Sotela, Hotel Gavilan is nestled near the banks of the Sarapiqui River and is a favorite with families and birding groups.

The rooms are quaint and homey, some with floral drapes and matching bedspreads. All of the 17 rooms overlook the garden and come equipped with fans and hot water.

The lodge offers excellent opportunities to spot the green ibis, spectacled owl, bronzy hermit, and flycatchers to name a few of the area’s 100 plus bird species. That evening, I joined a lively group of nature lovers at the lodge’s restaurant for a home-cooked dinner.

The day had been a dynamic one; some folks having ridden horseback while others drifted down the Sarapiqui River on a tranquil safari float. Stories were swapped about wildlife that had been seen or heard, from toucans and monkeys to bats and hummingbirds, before we shuffled off for a good night’s rest.

Contact Info:

Hotel Gavilan Rio Sarapiqui
Email: gavilan@racsa.co.cr
Telephone: (506) 2 766-7131
or (506) 8 383-5627
www.gavilanlodge.com

Day 7: The Whale's Tail

2008-05-07T12:53:00.005-06:00

Dominical & The Costa Ballena

Today would be the last hurrah of my two-week adventure through Cerro de la Muerte and the Dominical area. I headed south to explore the scenic beaches of Dominicalito, Playa Hermosa, Uvita and Ballena.

In Dominicalito, a young couple caught their first waves with the help of a local instructor. Whether beginner or advanced, surfers have plenty of options along the South Pacific Coast, where beach breaks, rocky points and the whim of the tides offer gentle swells or challenging rides.

Beginning with Playa Uvita, the Costa Ballena encompasses a stretch of beautiful and rugged shoreline, where lush mountains form the backdrop to a chain of laid-back seaside communities. Many visitors have fallen in love with the region and later relocated permanently.

Canadians, Germans, French and Americans make up the bulk of the ex-pat population. One benefit of such an international community is a selection of fabulous bakeries and restaurants nestled along the coastal highway.

In Uvita, I shifted into low and drove up a winding mountain road, following signs to Whales and Dolphins Ecolodge, my final destination for the day. Located 17 kilometers south of Dominical on a bluff overlooking the sea, Whales and Dolphins has the best panoramic view of the Costa Ballena.

From every angle I could see the famous rock formation of Punta Uvita, which perfectly resembles a whale’s tail. Even through a slight tropical haze, the cerulean sea gleamed against the serpentine coast. I absorbed the vista from the terrace, which featured an infinity pool alongside an al fresco bar and restaurant.

Hotel staff will gladly arrange tours to local attractions, but I was tour-weary and chose to relax and enjoy the comforts of my plush suite. Each of the lodge’s 20 rooms comes equipped with wireless internet, satellite TV, minibar, safe and private balcony. However, the panorama is the real highlight.

Following an afternoon swim, I treated myself to room service and a bottle of wine in celebration of my adventures in this beautiful part of the country.

With pretty beaches, rugged mountains and amazing biodiversity, the lightly-tread Dominical and Costa Ballena are soon to become a favorite vacation destination among travelers.

Contact Info:
Whales and Dolphins Ecolodge
Tel: 506-2-743-8150
Email: sales@whalesanddolphins.net
www.whalesanddolphins.net

Day 6: Snakes and Angels

2008-05-06T12:53:00.013-06:00

Dominical

After a blissful night’s rest at Cuna del Angel, I wanted nothing more than a day of pampering at their European spa. Turkish baths, chocolate body wraps and foot reflexology were just a few of the wellness treatments available.

My indulgence would have to wait, as I had a date with Quetzal and Monica, owners of Parque Reptilandia. Housing more than 65 species of reptiles and amphibians, Parque Reptilandia is a bonanza of forked tongues and scales.

Located on the outskirts of Dominical, the park features a myriad of creatures from petite poison dart frogs to enormous lizards and snakes. Every Friday is feeding day, and I had arrived just in time to watch a Mexican beaded lizard devour a mouse.

On my self-guided tour, I saw species native to Costa Rica as well as to faraway parts of the world. Venomous snakes such as the eyelash pit viper and terciopelo were coiled alongside giant boa constrictors.Vibrant basilisk lizards and water monitors basked in large open enclosures.

The star attraction at Parque Reptilandia had to be its fearsome looking Komodo dragon, the world’s largest lizard. With a body spanning nearly eight feet in length, the Komodo gives the impression of a modern-day dinosaur.

While each exhibit is well-signed in both Spanish and English, guided tours are available for those who want more detailed information. Monica and Quetzal also give presentations to school groups about local reptile species to help promote environmental awareness.

On my return to Puertocito, I stopped for a light ceviche lunch at La Parcela, a cliff-top restaurant with fabulous coastal views. I was saving my appetite for later, as Cuna del Angel’s restaurant had received nothing but rave reviews. Over a glass of wine in the palapa, I watched the sunset and chatted with fellow guests.

Dinner was a feast for the senses – tender beef medallions in a wild mushroom sauce with a hint of Drambui, paired with a silky Syrah. A dish of homemade pistachio ice cream served by attending angels perfected the heavenly experience.

Contact Info:
Cuna del Angel
Tel 506-2-787-8012
Email: info@cunadelangel.com
www.cunadelangel.com

Parque Reptilandia
Tel: 506-2-787-8007
Email: Reptilandia_cr@racsa.co.cr
www.CRreptiles.com

Day 5: Marino Ballena National Park

2008-05-05T12:52:00.014-06:00

Uvita

Each year from August - October and December - April, pods of massive humpback whales migrate through the warm waters off Marino Ballena National Park. Protecting more than 5300 hectares of ocean and nine miles of coastline, the park also serves as a nesting site for endangered Olive Ridley and hawksbill sea turtles.

The park’s rarely visited beaches are protected by a network of crescent-shaped reefs and a scattering of rocky islands called Las Tres Hermanas (The Three Sisters). Sea currents have swept aside portions of sand, forming shoals that shelter swimmers from large swells and
dangerous surf.

Located south of Dominical on the Costa Ballena, the marine park has four entrances manned by park rangers. I chose to explore the Uvita sector where visitors can observe Punta Uvita, the famous rock and reef formation that fittingly resembles a whale’s tail. I had just missed the peak whale watching season, though a few 40-foot giants were still being spotted on occasion.

However, I wasn’t to be disappointed with the wildlife. While following a path along mangrove estuaries, I stumbled upon a Tico couple taking racy photos of one another in the shallows. I chuckled to myself and, not wanting to disturb their courtship ritual, moved along as they quickly covered themselves with sarongs.

Wandering the deserted beach, it was easy to see why they chose such a place – we were the only people amid miles of spectacular shoreline. A current of red crabs rippled across the beach, their translucent bodies bobbing in and out of holes in the ivory sand.

The calm waters off Punta Uvita are ideal for swimming and snorkeling, with mild currents and decent visibility. After cooling off in the ocean, I poked around tide pools that had formed at low tide before seeking shade from the scorching sun. I backtracked on the Costanera Sur and headed north to Cuna del Angel, my luxury hotel for the next two evenings.

Located nine kilometers south of Dominical, between the mountains and coast, Cuna del Angel (Cradle of Angels) was an experience to be savored. As the hotel staff checked me in, I sipped a fresh mango smoothie under a dome of painted stars in the hotel’s open-air palapa. The building’s unique design was one of many romantic touches in this enchanting boutique hotel.

Cherubs adorned nearly every door, and staff fluttered about with angel wings emblazoned on their shirts. The hotel’s sixteen rooms, each named after a different angel, feature a blend of Asian and colonial décor. Overlooking the swimming pool, my room came equipped with all the amenities you’d expect in a four-star hotel –coffee service, satellite TV, wireless internet and a fully-stocked mini-bar.

On the recommendation of another guest, I hiked down to the scenic bay of Puerto Nuevo, a private beach just ten minutes from Cuna del Angel.

Howler monkeys sounded off as I scrambled down the steep trail to a gently curving shore. I spent the remainder of the afternoon where the mountains melded with the sea in a striking union of surf and jagged cliffs veiled in lanky palms.

Contact Info:
Cuna del Angel
Tel 506-2-787-8012
Email: info@cunadelangel.com
www.cunadelangel.com

Day 4: Horseback to Nauyaca Waterfalls

2008-05-04T05:56:00.015-06:00

Dominical

Our sturdy criollo horses carried us on surefooted legs, splashing across small streams as we descended into the valley. The rocky path twisted down steep hillsides, leading us to the home of Don Lulo. With our horses tied up in the shade, we sat down for a giant home-cooked breakfast in the family rancho.

Situated ten kilometers outside of Dominical, Don Lulo’s Horseback Tours is a family-run affair with over 80 horses which are rotated regularly. A combination of horseback riding, beautiful waterfalls and local hospitality had attracted our group of twelve on this luminous day. After filling our bellies with Tico fare, we explored the family’s mini-zoo (sponsored by MINAE, the local ministry of environment), which housed a toucan and several scarlet macaws.

One of Don Lulo’s grandsons knelt down and opened a wooden door in the floor of one of the cages. Out trotted four agouti pacas, big-eyed nocturnal creatures with a peculiar musky scent. “So… what lives in that hole?” someone in our group jokingly asked, pointing at another door in the floor. Our guide just laughed and shook his head, leaving us to wonder at its contents.

We continued on horseback another 25 minutes, our horses occasionally galloping as they jockeyed for position. We dismounted and changed into our bathing suits before walking the remaining stretch to the waterfalls. The 65-foot cascade crashed into a sparkling pool, an inviting sight on such a hot day.

Our guides expertly scrambled up the slippery rock face and took turns doing back flips and swan dives into the clear pool below. A few brave and considerably less-graceful members from our group cannon-balled off the ledge, screaming the whole way down.

Back at Don Lulo’s, we enjoyed a typical lunch of chicken, rice and beans served family-style at communal tables. I sat next to a hilarious couple from New Jersey who swore they had spotted a kangaroo “in the woods outside their cabin”. The ensuing guessing game to determine what animal they had mistaken for a six-foot Australian marsupial entertained us all for quite some time.

A bit weary after our six-hour adventure, I decided to join a few other travelers for a pre-sunset cocktail at Tortilla Flats, a funky Tex-Mex cafe fronting Dominical beach. Between 5 and 6 p.m., every aesthete for miles gathered on the shore to watch surfers bob in the waves and the sun gradually settle as a backdrop below the horizon.

After the show, I returned to the comfort of Roca Verde which on occasion converts into a community playhouse, featuring local theater groups. Tonight, however, was a quiet evening. I had the swimming pool all to myself and, after a dip and a light dinner at the restaurant, turned in for a good night’s rest.

Contact Info:
Hotel Roca Verde
Tel: 506-2 -787-0036
Email: admin@rocaverde.net
www.rocaverde.net

Don Lulo’s Nauyaca Waterfalls
Tel: 506-2-787-8013
Email: info@cataratasnauyaca.com
www.cataratasnauyaca.com

Day 3: The Wild Side of Hacienda Baru

2008-05-03T05:52:00.010-06:00

Rainforest Hike

We heard a rustling in the leaves not too far from where we stood. In a raspy voice that reminded me of Animal from the Muppet Show, our guide suggested a pair of agoutis searching for a meal. We were 20 minutes into a four-hour hike through hot and muggy rainforest.

A Dutch couple on our tour had never heard of such an animal, so I tried my best to describe a large guinea pig-ish creature before our guide whipped out his handy lowland mammal brochure. “Ah, like the hamster?” they asked, but the agoutis had shuffled away, eluding our cameras for the moment.

Today was the day of the sloth. Both two and three-toed were spotted curled up in trees, tight balls of greenish fur and strange long claws. We even saw a couple of baby sloth – one actually moving (ever so slowly) from branch to tree trunk. To me, their faces were both sweet and alien, an odd combination of features that lent an unearthly presence.

Our animated guide was a birder at heart. Each twitter and cluck was matched to its respective species, as he identified various parrots, woodcreepers, mot mots and trogons. Although we didn’t come across any monkeys, colorful poison dart frogs announced their presence with a succession of chirps. Chestnut-mandibled toucans and their smaller relative, the fiery-billed aracari, were prolific in the trees.

Much of our hike was spent in silence, as we took in each rainforest sound. Our guide carried a spotting scope, enabling sharp views of scaly iguanas and tiny birds that would have otherwise gone unseen.

I bid farewell to Hacienda Baru and drove three kilometers south to Dominical where I found exactly what I was hoping for: a chilled-out, undeveloped surf town with great beaches and an eclectic crowd.

I grabbed a fish taco at the Backyard Cafe and lounged on one of their sofas while reading a pile of trashy gossip magazines. The cafe also doubles as a used-book store, and has a hefty selection of pulp fiction and travel books.

I was staying at Roca Verde, a beachfront hotel just a kilometer south of the main village. Run by friendly American brothers, the hotel features a large restaurant and bar that doubles as the happening party spot on Saturday nights.

Each room has A/C, a coffee maker and a patio that faces the ocean. I took a quick dip in the pool before heading back into town to scope out the people and places I’d be getting to know over the next couple of days.

Contact Info:
Hacienda Baru National Wildlife Refuge
Tel: 506-2-787-0003
Email: info@haciendabaru.com
www.haciendabaru.com

Hotel Roca Verde
Tel: 506-2 -787-0036
Email: admin@rocaverde.net
www.rocaverde.net