Thursday, December 13, 2007
Day 13: The Trip Home
After one last look at Flamingo’s perfect crescent of white sand beach, I was ready to head home. I drove inland, towards the Tempisque Bridge and stopped briefly in El Llano to gas up my car. The cheerful attendant checked my oil and brake fluid without being asked, and wished me a safe and pleasant journey. I noted that in every part of this trip, as in all of my travels through Costa Rica, I was continually amazed at the charm and genuine hospitality of Ticos. As a female traveling solo, I have never felt safer in another country. I knew that if my car broke down or I suddenly found myself lost, a complete stranger would lend a helping hand, and do so with a smile.
Driving past large swathes of open plains, I spotted a couple of sabaneros rounding up their cattle. I pulled over to snap a few photographs of the Costa Rican cowboys in action. I walked closer to the approaching herd, trying to get that perfect shot, when a couple of ill-tempered bulls veered away from the pack. Lowering my camera, I could have sworn I saw a glint in their eyes as they ran in my general direction.
I hightailed it back to the safety of my car, no doubt an entertaining sight for the men on horseback. While being gored by a Guanacaste bull makes for an interesting story and no doubt an impressive scar, I had no desire to end a perfectly good trip with bodily harm. Heart racing, I laughed out loud as the sabaneros disappeared with their cattle in a cloud of dust. I wondered what they thought, if anything, of this crazy Gringa and her oversized camera. Most likely nothing.
Not much seemed to faze the Guanacaste cowboy – not tourists, condos or surf shops. I drove away hoping that, at least, would never change.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Day 12: A Lazy Day in Playa Flamingo
After a light breakfast at Flamingo Beach Resort’s seaside restaurant, I hit the beach for an early morning walk. The clear blue waters were warm against my feet and legs. Today I wanted nothing more than to relax by the pool with a good book, and perhaps a cocktail or two. I stopped by the hotel’s tour desk where I was invited by the friendly staff to accompany them on a sunset cruise. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend my last evening at the beach. Looking at underwater photos from their recent scuba trips, I lamented the fact that I wasn’t a diver (a claustrophobic episode in Thailand assured me of that). The marine life around the Catalina Islands was amazing, and divers
frequently swam alongside manta rays, sharks and vibrant parrot fish. I decided to wander Flamingo village on foot and, in less than an hour, had walked the entire length of the rocky peninsula. The hilltop mansions were amazing, tucked behind elaborately wrought gates and flourishing gardens. New developments were underway, mostly condominiums and vacation rentals. A small plaza held a pharmacy and bank, but otherwise Flamingo lacked a discernable town center.
Back at the hotel pool, a row of chaise lounges framed by palms beckoned me. I swam up to the bar for a coconut shake and then promptly fell asleep in the warm Guanacaste sun. The resort attracted a mixture of young couples and families, and everyone was out at the pool or beach, enjoying the cool breezes and mild weather.
Later that afternoon, I met up with Paco at the
Flamingo Marina for our sunset cruise around Potrero Bay. I joined travelers from a hotel in Playa Conchal, who had been shuttled to Flamingo for the evening excursion. A 54-foot dive boat escorted us around the tranquil waters of Potrero Bay. A group of us sat on the bow, taking in the sweeping view of Playas Penca and Prieta. The sky turned a brilliant orange just before the sun disappeared. Just like that, our hour-long
sunset cruise had ended. In celebration of my two-week journey, I treated myself to a fabulous seafood dinner. As the waiter cleared my plate from the white tablecloth, I thought of all I had seen and done during the last two weeks. My trip through the Gold Coast beaches was rich and wonderful and had, like that final sunset, seemed to pass with the blink of an eye.
Contact Info:
Flamingo Beach Resort
Tel. 506-654-4444
Email: info@resortflamingobeach.com
www.resortflamingobeach.com
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Day 11: Playa Flamingo and Potrero Bay
The road between Brasilito and Playa Flamingo is an easy six-kilometer stretch of alternating gravel and pavement. As I neared the rocky peninsula that juts out from Flamingo’s shores, I spotted several dozen fishing and diving boats moored in the harbor.I stopped briefly at the Flamingo Marina, a full-service port where boats can be chartered for some of the best deep-sea fishing on the Pacific. Experienced captains know the hotspots
and help anglers pull in sailfish, marlin and mahi mahi. Every year Flamingo hosts several sport fishing tournaments, attracting both seasoned and novice fishermen who try their luck in landing record sailfish.Playa Flamingo has a reputation as an exclusive beachfront community, its hills sprinkled with million-dollar mansions and pricey villas. Driving the single road that looped through town, I was taken aback by its compact size. The road was lined with a few restaurants, hotels and tour companies, but the majority of the peninsula was dominated by condominiums or beautifully-landscaped homes owned by wealthy retirees.
I was looking forward to my stay at the Flamingo Beach Resort, a landmark hotel in the area. Built in the 1950’s, the popular resort attracted the rich and famous long before Costa Rica was a vacation destination. It is a classic beachfront resort, with all the amenities you’d expect.
Contemporary rooms and suites overlooked an oversized pool where guests socialized at the swim-up bar. Tall palm trees swayed in a breeze
redolent with coconut suntan lotion. A pretty white sand beach, perfect for swimming and boogie boarding, beckoned just a few feet from the hotel.With my afternoon free, I hopped back in my car to explore the beaches of Potrero Bay. Separated from Playa Flamingo by a rocky cape, Potrero encompasses white and black sand beaches strung along a picturesque bay. I drove a few kilometers north on dusty gravel roads until I reached the undeveloped hamlet of Potrero.
Other than a few hotels and small restaurants, the black sand shores were untouched.
The ATVs I’d seen tearing along Brasilito’s beach were outlawed on Potrero Bay, as they could disturb turtle nests along the shore. For local adventure, most travelers opt to snorkel or dive in the clear waters surrounding the nearby Catalina Islands.
On my way back to Flamingo, I stopped on the outskirts of town for one of my favorite foods while at the beach – fresh ceviche. From the restaurant I could see fishing boats returning to the harbor, cheerful anglers in tow. I finished my dinner quickly, anticipating the creature comforts (a hot bath, cable TV, and bottle of wine) of my room at Flamingo Beach Resort. Every now and then, a girl needs some pampering.
Contact Info:
Flamingo Beach Resort
Tel. 506-654-4444
Email: info@resortflamingobeach.com
www.resortflamingobeach.com
Monday, December 10, 2007
Day 10: Brasilito – A Taste of Cowboy Culture at Finca Casagua
The months of November and December are marked by holiday celebrations throughout the country. Nearly every pueblo holds its own fiesta, where horse parades, rodeos and bullfights are the key attractions amid a host of festivities. Nowhere are the Tico’s deeply-rooted traditions more evident, as they come together to dance, eat, drink and ride their beautiful criollo horses.In Costa Rica, the criollo horse is esteemed for its elegant high-stepping gait, noble character and hardiness. Its roots trace back to the Barb and Andalusian horses brought by the Spanish conquerors. The sabanero, or Costa Rican cowboy, remains alive and well in Guanacaste. The province’s open plains abound in cattle ranches, where families live and work the stock much as their grandparents did.
An avid rider my whole life, I couldn’t wait for a taste of cowboy culture at Casagua Horses, a 50-acre ranch owned by Kay Dodge and her husband Esteban Peraza.Finca Casagua is located in Portegolpe, a 15-minute jaunt inland from Playa Brasilito. Kay and Esteban have been offering horseback excursions for 12 years, including a natural history tour and the popular cantina ride, where guests traverse old oxcart trails, stopping for the occasional boca and cold beer.
I was excited to learn about their natural horsemanship methods of training, which emphasize working with a horse’s nature and instincts in a gentle manner. In the ring, I watched Esteban work with their spirited paint stallion, communicating through body language and signals. The paint willingly obliged to Esteban’s requests, as a relationship of trust and respect had been established.
Nearly all of Finca Casagua’s 26 horses have been trained using this technique, and many were born and raised on the ranch. Casagua recently started a “Paint and Paso” program, breeding
criollo mares with their paint stallion, resulting in a breed of both “color and comfort”.I joined Esteban for an afternoon ride on backcountry trails. His beautiful criollo steed, Luna Llena, ambled with the lateral gait of the Peruvian Paso, his neck elegantly arched. My gentle gelding, Tinto, was sure-footed and a joy to ride. We climbed into the hills overlooking the ranch, and galloped along a flat, open stretch of dry tropical forest.
Along the way, Esteban and I chatted about his childhood in Guanacaste and studies at the Escuela de Ganaderia (animal husbandry school) near my hometown of Atenas.
We returned to the sprawling ranch of Casagua Horses, where I thanked Kay and Esteban for their warm hospitality. I hoped to return someday soon and join the Guanacaste Galloping Gals, an all-female group that rides together every couple of weeks.
By the time I returned to Hotel Brasilito, the sun was low in the sky. Always a fan of local sodas, I took a seat in the small neighborhood restaurant,
which was packed with rowdy men.For just $4, my plate was filled with heaping portions of grilled fish, rice, salad and beans. Combined with the colorful ambience, it was one of my favorite (and least expensive) meals of the trip.
Tomorrow I would be up with the sun, ready to push onwards to Playa Flamingo, my final destination in this two-week journey.
Contact Info:
Hotel Brasilito
Tel. 506-654-4237
Email: hotel@brasilito.com
www.brasilito.com
Casagua Horses
Tel. (506) 653-8041
Email: kaydodge@racsa.co.cr
www.tamarindo.com/casagua
Sunday, December 9, 2007
Day 9: Playas Brasilito and Conchal
Having your own set of wheels is the way to go when exploring the beaches of Guanacaste. Although public buses run between the seaside locales, the freedom to go at your own pace and stop when the notion strikes is a key factor to a good road trip.
Today I was continuing north to the beaches of Conchal and Brasilito. Surfing would no longer be the prevailing sport, as the stretch of coastline between Playas Grande and Flamingo is too rocky and shallow for decent swells.
On the way, I stopped at an antique store where I chatted with the amiable owner about recent development in the region. She grew up next to Playa Grande and remembered the days when thousands of leatherbacks came ashore to nest. It was clear that despite conservation efforts, the area was changing – perhaps not at the breakneck speed of Tamarindo, but shifting nonetheless.
I passed Conchal en route to Brasilito, another small and quiet beach community. The town’s few shops and funky houses are built around a grassy square where a few souvenir vendors had set up shop. I was happy to see when I arrived in Brasilito that it
was also a one-horse town. My home for the next two evenings was Hotel Brasilito, an inexpensive inn favored for its prime beachfront location. The basic rooms were simple but clean, and mine faced the hotel’s new Australian-themed restaurant where free Wi-Fi internet was available.
Brasilito’s warm waters were perfect for swimming, which is exactly what I did after settling into my room. Visitors could arrange a canopy tour, ATV ride, sunset cruise or horseback excursion. Instead, I opted to walk Brasilito’s grey-sand beach and explore neighboring Playa
Conchal, named after the thousands of tiny seashells that make up its sand. A modest outcropping of rocks divides the two bays, but the contrast between the beaches is amazing. Playa Conchal is a
shimmering beauty of pink sand and turquoise waters resembling a scene from the Caribbean or South Pacific. It was one of the most alluring beaches I’d glimpsed in Costa Rica, its clear waters ideal for snorkeling and diving. As I walked along the gently curving shore, I noticed an inordinate number of beefy, Speedo-clad men bronzing under the noon sun. I assumed most of them were staying at the luxury hotel that fronted Conchal, where guests could play golf on an award-winning
course or frolic in the ocean on jet skis.That evening I dined in Hotel Brasilito’s Aussie restaurant,
under coconut palms twinkling with holiday lights. An amusing group of locals and travelers mixed at the bar, where I sampled the world’s tastiest mojito – not too sweet, with extra lime and fresh mint. I settled into a beachfront chair, and took in another spectacular Guanacaste sunset. Contact Info:
Hotel Brasilito
Tel. 506-654-4237
Email: hotel@brasilito.com
www.brasilito.com
Saturday, December 8, 2007
Day 8: Playa Grande – A Night Turtle Tour in Las Baulas Marine Park
I savored the comfort of my king-sized bed and tiled bath, rarities in most mid-range Costa Rican hotels. A throng of white-throated magpie-jays, locally known as urracas provided entertainment during breakfast on the veranda. Perched in almond tree branches, they watched and waited 
as I finished my toast, then swooped down to devour the remaining crumbs.The helpful staff at Hotel Las Tortugas arranged a turtle tour for me that evening. My tour would be guided by park rangers from Las Baulas Marine Park, which encompasses the beaches of Playa Grande, Carbon, Ventanas and Langosta, and includes the Tamarindo Estuary.
Every year between October and February, hundreds of leatherback sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. These Jurassic reptiles, the largest of all sea turtles, can weigh upwards of 1500 pounds and measure six feet in length. Although the beaches encompassed by Las Baulas support over 800 nesting sea turtles annually, the leatherback remains highly endangered and at risk of extinction in the Pacific Ocean.
I spent the first part of the day under the cool shade of a palm watching surfers catch the late morning waves. I was mesmerized by their resolve as each approaching swell grew larger and
fiercer. Their boards seemed an extension of their agile bodies as 
they glided over the crashing water.I ventured to the nearby turtle museum, which I had read so much about. To my disappointment it is now permanently closed and, according to the park ranger, there are no immediate plans to re-open.
At 6 p.m., I walked to the Las Baulas ranger station, just a few hundred yards from my hotel. Some twenty tourists had gathered for our evening turtle tour. I was hoping for luck, as word had it that two nights had passed without spotting a leatherback. We milled about for an hour, until a radio call indicated that two turtles were seen nesting on the beach.
There were 30 of us by that time, and the park rangers explained that the turtles were a few kilometers down the shore. We divided into small groups and piled into our own cars, caravanning to the beach. As usual, no cameras, flashlights or video were allowed, so as not to disturb the nesting females.
When we arrived, local biologists were huddled around a previously-tagged leatherback. As we waited our turn to glimpse the turtle, I marveled at an extraordinarily starry sky. In the space of a few minutes, we saw three shooting stars race
across the splash of the Milky Way. I felt certain tonight would be a lucky night.The female had dug two nests but wasn’t satisfied and returned to the sea without laying her eggs. Our group watched her slowly lumber back to the sea. Even in the darkness, I could tell she was massive, nearly double the size of the green sea turtles I had observed in Tortuguero.
The rangers’ radios crackled as more turtles were seen farther along the beach, but our group had to wait its turn, as another crowd had arrived from Tamarindo. I suddenly felt the onset of a migraine and knew I’d
have to cut the evening short. One of the park rangers graciously offered to escort me back to Hotel Las Tortugas, by way of a kilometer walk down the beach.The shore was pitch-black, but along the way the ranger pointed out three leatherback turtles emerging from the ocean. Their sheer size was staggering to behold. I was in awe to have seen such amazing creatures, especially under the circumstances. In the end, I had my own private tour, not a bad way to spend my last evening in Playa Grande.
Contact Info:
Hotel Las Tortugas
Tel: 506-653-0423
Email: surfegg@cool.co.cr
www.lastortugashotel.com
Friday, December 7, 2007
Day 7: Beach and Rivermouth Breaks at Playa Grande
Just a few miles north of Tamarindo lies Playa Grande, another Gold Coast favorite among surfers. Flanked by the saltwater estuary, the beach is a 25-minute roundabout drive from Tamarindo. I barreled down the road following signs to my next destination, my car a roving cloud of brown Guanacaste dust.As I neared the beach, passing a tiny supermarket and few scattered hotels, I realized that Playa Grande was the complete antithesis of Tamarindo. Off the main road were a soda and restaurant, a couple of surf shops and a handful of houses under construction. The streets were virtually empty of cars and pedestrians. It was a balmy summer day, and everyone was on the beach.
I arrived at Hotel Las Tortugas where I was pleasantly surprised by my well-appointed room and poolside view. Designed and built by surfing pioneer Louis Wilson, the beachfront hotel was created with nesting sea turtles in mind. Playa Grande is one of the largest nesting sites for the leatherback sea turtle, which are extremely sensitive to ambient light as they come ashore under the cover of darkness.
The hotel’s intelligent design yields minimal light in the evenings and is positioned to block lights from future developments to the north. I was drawn to the eco-friendly nature of Las Tortugas and their involvement with the community which includes coordinating environmental projects and promoting wildlife conservation. 
After a quick meal in the hotel’s open-air restaurant, I ventured out to the shore. The cream-colored sand stretched on for miles, ideal for long walks. A small patch of beach almond and coconut palms provided shade from the tropical sun.
I dug my toes into the warm sand and watched surfers tackle the waves. I could hear their faint hoots and hollers as they neared the shore. Playa Grande is famous for its consistent breaks. Boarders can surf the beach break at high tide or try the Tamarindo rivermouth when it’s low.Looking around at all of the tanned and attractive travelers, I felt like the beach was hosting a convention for the world’s most beautiful people. I talked with folks from South Africa, Australia, Spain and the States. Most had come for the surf, but all were drawn to the peace and undeveloped splendor of Playa Grande.
Contact Info:
Hotel Las Tortugas
Tel: 506-653-0423
Email: surfegg@cool.co.cr
www.lastortugashotel.com
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Day 6: Tamarindo – A Morning Surf Lesson
I couldn’t leave the warm waters of this surfing Mecca without trying my hand at the popular sport. To many who grew up on the Gold Coast, surfing is more of a lifestyle – an art form of sorts that has become a part of the local culture. Surf camps and shops are ubiquitous, as are the tanned and toned people who frequent them. While the adventurous and the seasoned pros travel to nearby Witch’s Rock or Ollie’s Point, beginners like me have a chance to learn in Tamarindo’s mild waves without being pummeled. I was joining Tamarindo Adventures, a company that runs a surf camp and specializes in surf lessons.
Our group of six geared up in rash guards and carried our lightweight long boards, made especially for beginners, to the beach. Try as I might to listen to the instruction, my thoughts were elsewhere as I gazed at the taught muscles and perfect brown skin of our handsome instructors. I am certain they were imparting crucial information, things like correct body position, the importance of balance and how not to drown, but I was in the zone and smiling.After a few minutes of practice on the sand, we
were ready to dive in and become one with the ocean. We paddled out to the beach break and waited for good waves. The beauty of it all was they kept coming, wave after perfect wave. The first few attempts were total blowouts, with boards going one direction and bodies the other. But with each approaching swell, we mastered the art as much as possible in 30 minutes. Our surf instructors were right there with us, giving pointers and inspiration when needed. After an hour or so, we were all carving up some respectable waves. I found surfing to be much harder than it looks; the guys and girls who do it so fluidly and seemingly without effort are no doubt skilled. Balancing on the board over those slippery waves is a fine art indeed.
I thanked our instructors at Tamarindo Adventures before retiring to Hotel Chocolate for some leisure time by the pool. I was driving out the next day and asked manager Danielle where I could find the nearest gas station. To my surprise, Tamarindo, along with all of the Gold Coast beaches, lacks this one major amenity. The area’s only gas station in the pueblo of El Llano is a 15-minute drive inland. Danielle assured me that, in a pinch, I could always purchase some emergency gas at the local hardware store at a whopping $6 per gallon.
This was my last evening in Tamarindo and, as much as I wanted to go out with a bang, I was still recuperating from my previous indulgence with Bryan. A laid-back movie night in the comfort of my room it would be.
There was still much to do and see here, but I was pushing north to Playa Grande. Despite
seven years of development, I discovered an underlying charm in Tamarindo, a glimpse of that surf town I once knew. Of course, good friends, great music and cold beer always help, but friendly locals and a beautiful beach bring it all together.Contact Info:
Hotel Chocolate
Tel. 506-653-1311
Email: chocinfo@thechocolatehotel.com
www.thechocolatehotel.com
Tamarindo Adventures
Tel. 506-653-0108
Email:info@tamarindoadventures.net
www.tamarindoadventures.net
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Day 5: A Sunset Cruise on Tamarindo Bay
I said a little prayer of thanks for the in-room coffee maker, a girl’s best friend after an especially late night. Taking advantage of my kitchen at Hotel Chocolate, I whipped up a light breakfast with the goodies I had purchased at the supermarket. One of my favorite activities at the beach is tide pool hopping, and the rocks along Tamarindo’s shore have a few prime spots at low tide. I carried a poking stick in the event I found a baby squid or sea cucumber to investigate. Unfortunately, the rocky pools were devoid of interesting life, so instead I watched a group of surfers ride the morning waves. On good days when the swells are big, the water is packed with seasoned locals – all waiting for that perfect ride.
I stopped in an Italian café where I couldn’t help but smile at the owner’s excitement for ham. To her credit, the salty prosciutto was melt-in-your-mouth and served with mozzarella on amazing pannini bread.
Ben was joining me for a sunset cruise on Tamarindo Bay with Mandingo Sailing. I think the free wine and champagne helped convince him, though the spectacular views and opportunity to meet hot young ladies were a definite bonus.
I had read that Mandingo was featured on the E! series “Wild On” several years ago, and figured we were both in for a treat.
The 50-foot classical schooner yacht was captained by Andree Hammerschmidt, a worldly skipper who grew up on the west coast of Africa before sailing across the Atlantic with his wife Maria and their two sons. For over ten years, they have lived in Tamarindo, offering snorkeling and sailing charters to a host of
travelers. 
A small panga shuttled us to the gorgeous yacht where Andree and his crew waited with chilled wine and platters of hors d’ouevres. Life was good. It was a small group, including Ben and me, another woman and a young couple with a well-behaved child.
By our second glass of wine, the conversation was flowing, and Andree was spinning tales of life on the high seas. We cruised around the bay, the sun warm on our backs and the wind in our faces. Glasses of champagne were passed around as the sun began to dip below the horizon. The clouds took on a pink hue, and we absorbed the panoramic view of Playa Grande and Tamarindo in the fading light.
While the experience was far from any episode of “Wild On” (Ben only took off his shirt), we disembarked the cruise feeling a little saucy and very relaxed. It was the perfect precursor to a Friday night in Tamarindo.
We were hitting the Monkey Bar after dinner. It was the place to be on any given Friday in Tamarindo. I called Bryan to find his whereabouts, and discovered he was, of all places, in a bullring. Well, just outside of one.
He had been gassing up his motorcycle in one of the smaller pueblos that was in full holiday mode. Celebrations included horse parades, bullfights, and lots of music and fried meat. Bryan had taken a go in the ring, scrambling clear of a thousand-pound beast with large horns. Tico bullfights are nothing like their Spanish counterparts. They typically involve drunk or crazed bystanders (aka Bryan) jumping into the ring, only to taunt the bull for a few brief moments. Bryan would meet up with us a little later that night. He explained that he had a bit more taunting to do and some fried meat to eat. Just another night in Costa Rica.
Contact Info:
Hotel Chocolate
Tel. 506-653-1311
Email: chocinfo@thechocolatehotel.com
www.thechocolatehotel.com
Mandingo Sailing
Tel. 506-831-8875
Email: mandingo@racsa.co.cr
www.tamarindosailing.com
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Day 4: Exploring Tamarindo Estuary
Today I would kayak the saltwater jungle of the Tamarindo Estuary. Spanning 1200 acres, it serves as the natural border between Tamarindo and Playa Grande. Its winding canals are home to ospreys, herons and kingfishers in addition to howler monkeys and coatimundis. Fed by the Pacific Ocean, the estuary is protected by the National Park System and hosts six types of mangroves and the toothy American crocodile. My kayak tour with Tamarindo Adventures began as a leisurely paddle with the incoming tide.
Our naturalist guide pointed out a blue heron, an ibis and a kingfisher plunging into the brackish water. We were on the lookout for a crocodile, but the stealthy reptiles eluded us that day. A spotted sandpiper and snowy egret waded in the shallows, and howler monkeys scrambled along the tree tops.Our two-hour paddle took us deep into the
estuary where we silently floated with the current. On the way back we paddled against the ebbing tide, working up a sweat as we approached the shore. The peace and tranquility of the estuary was a stark contrast to the din of Tamarindo. The cocktail hour had arrived and folks gathered, cold beers in hand, at beachside cafes to watch the sunset.
I had moved to Hotel Chocolate, a recently renovated apart-hotel a few minutes walk from the center of town. Run by friendly manager Danielle, the hotel has air conditioned rooms, each equipped with its own kitchen and patio, and free Wi-Fi access. Eight units overlooking a nicely landscaped pool lent the
hotel a cozy atmosphere. I was joining Bryan and his friend Ben for dinner at Kahiki, a restaurant favored by locals for its tasty cocktails and eclectic cuisine. Dining out in Tamarindo is an adventure with endless possibilities. Choices range from fresh seafood and sushi to avant-garde cuisine.
Kahiki had a chilled-out ambience. Ex-pats and locals mingled at the bar over martinis and Bloody Marys. I was craving something ethnic and spicy, and the savory hummus from the Pacific Rim-inspired menu didn’t disappoint.
We drifted over to bar Babylon, where reggae night was just kicking off. With the Reggaeton thumping loudly amid pungent smoke and dreadlocked Rastas, we could have been in Jamaica.
I waxed poetic about my stint there as a Peace Corps volunteer and swapped stories with Ben, who had been stationed in Gambia, West Africa. While he was learning some rare African dialect in an impoverished country, I was honing the fine art of yam and ganja farming with my Rastafarian homestay.Bryan beat me badly at pool and, in a moment of temporary insanity and because I was on vacation, I agreed to a shot or two of guaro, the local firewater. Guaro is like tequila, minus the good flavor. Its headache-inducing properties are renowned, and even small quantities of the stuff make for an interesting night.
Contact Info:
Hotel Chocolate
Tel. 506-653-1311
Email: chocinfo@thechocolatehotel.com
www.thechocolatehotel.com
Tamarindo Adventures
Tel. 506-653-0108
Email:info@tamarindoadventures.net
www.tamarindoadventures.net
Monday, December 3, 2007
Day 3: Getting to Know Tamarindo
After a continental breakfast in Luna Llena’s new restaurant, I wanted nothing more than to relax at the hotel’s pool and soak up the sunshine. The low humidity coupled with ocean breezes kept temperatures mild and comfortable.Early December, I was quickly discovering, was a prime time to be traveling in Guanacaste. The holiday crowds had yet to arrive, prices were still low, and the sun was here to stay (at least until May).
Hotels and restaurants were ramping up for the Christmas season, and holiday lights were
artfully strung around coconut palms.I lounged by the pool with a mindless book and chatted with a couple who had just been married in Tamarindo. They exchanged vows at a quintessential beachside ceremony, an intimate gathering of family and friends along the shore. And now they were ready for some adventure – a canopy tour, catamaran excursion and surf lessons.
With my afternoon free, I decided to explore more of Tamarindo and check out some of the new art galleries and cafes. A number of souvenir stores and high-end boutiques were open, along with a dozen or more surf shops. There were three new shopping plazas, one of which had an Auto Mercado. For those of us who live in small town Costa Rica, the Auto Mercado is king of all supermarkets. It is the purveyor of all things we cannot find,
namely imported goods – among them, dark beer, kalamata olives and a variety of delicious cheeses. I spent a few wondrous moments perusing the aisles, simultaneously wishing and fearing that one day my little town of Atenas would be worthy of its own Auto Mercado. I was meeting up with an old friend from my days as an English teacher in Heredia. Bryan had been living in Tamarindo for two years and was the perfect guide to the area’s restaurants and nightlife. He still partied like a rock star and knew the hotspots and good sushi restaurants.
On any given night, there is something going on in Tamarindo – ladies’ night, reggae dance halls, discos and poker games at the casino.
We started off with rum drinks at Luna Llena’s poolside bar and moved on to Witch’s Rock for sushi. I hopped onto Bryan’s motorcycle for the ride to La Barra and then Pasatiempo for live music. The crowd was a blend of locals and sunburned tourists, and Bryan seemed to know everyone there. We toasted to our good lives in Costa Rica and spent a night catching up on travels and friends.
Contact Info:
Hotel Luna Llena
Tel. 506-653-0082
Email: lunalle@racsa.co.cr
www.hotellunallena.com
Sunday, December 2, 2007
Day 2: Tamarindo – Climbing Mountains on ATVs
The resonant calls of howler monkeys gently woke me this morning. The sun was brilliant, and I couldn’t wait to hit the beach. After a light breakfast at Hotel Luna Llena, I set out to re-discover the quiet surf town I once knew.I walked a few minutes to the main street that parallels the beach; at 9 a.m. the wide sandy coast was virtually empty, save for a few joggers and local surfers. The beach was just as beautiful as I had remembered, its broad shore curving around the bay. You could see Playa Grande to the north, another Gold Coast spot favored by surfers for its wicked breaks.
The main street through town was now paved, although potholes resembling impact craters minimized would-be speedsters. The sidewalks were brimming with travelers en route to lounge on the sand.New hotels, hostels and condominiums now lined the streets. An interesting mix of die-hard surfers, backpackers, young families and retirees were out enjoying the morning sun. Tamarindo had indeed changed.
What started as a local surf spot has grown into a full-fledged resort town with all the amenities of a major city. Construction cranes now dot the
skyline, and real estate is booming. I was glad to see that despite all the development, the town retained a laid-back vibe and a noticeable sense of community. There is a large ex-patriot population in Tamarindo – a melting pot of Italians, Americans, French, Canadians and Germans, balanced with a sprinkling of Ticos. Call me biased, but I welcome any Italian influence. They bring their fabulous sense of style, delicious cuisine and general lust for life to the far corners of the world. Tamarindo is chock full of Italian restaurants, hotels and delicatessens, and I took every opportunity to experience them all.
It seemed fitting that my first tour in this adventure-driven town would be an ATV excursion. I’ll admit that I never considered myself an ATV-type girl, preferring instead a horseback ride or massage on the beach. But the moment I started up the quad, the inner-kid in me came out.
I was joining local tour operator Tamarindo Adventures for a sunset ride into the mountains above Tamarindo. Our guide Diego gave us a few pointers before a quick test drive to make sure we knew gas from brake and weren’t a menace to the streets. Wearing giant goggles, helmets and the ever-attractive surgical mask (to keep the dust out of our mouths), we set off on an hour-long
ride. Although we were probably cruising at a mere 20mph, it felt more like 60. As we climbed hills and powered across streams, I suddenly longed for an ATV of my own, the perfect vehicle for zipping around town. We reached a lookout where a family of howler monkeys chimed in with our engines. I asked Diego where we were – Tamarindo or nearby Playa Langosta? He smiled and replied, “We’re on the mountain”. Indeed.
From our perch, we watched the sun cast a radiant light across Playas Junquillal, Avellena, Negra, Langosta and Grande. The warm waters off Tamarindo were dappled with surfers, catching the evening waves.
Contact Info:
Hotel Luna Llena
Tel. 506-653-0082
Email: lunalle@racsa.co.cr
www.hotellunallena.com
Tamarindo Adventures
Tel. 506-653-0108
Email:info@tamarindoadventures.net
www.tamarindoadventures.net
Saturday, December 1, 2007
Day 1: Journey to Guanacaste’s Gold Coast
TamarindoSun-drenched beaches with year-round surf, vibrant nightlife and a culture steeped in cowboy lore draw travelers to northern Guanacaste.
Beautiful coastlines and dry tropical forests dominate this vast province that spans the length of the Nicoya Peninsula across the open grasslands and arid plains of northwestern Costa Rica.
Today I was headed to the region’s Gold Coast, a stretch of beaches and seaside communities along the North Pacific shore celebrated by surfers for challenging breaks and consistent swells. My journey began in the booming beach town of Tamarindo, a Mecca for wave-riders and adventure aficionados.
I took the Pan American Highway towards Liberia and crossed the Tempisque Bridge (Puente de Amistad) which connects mainland Costa Rica with the Nicoya Peninsula. The Central Valley’s rolling hills gave way to the vast plains and working cattle ranches typical of Guanacaste. This was cowboy country.
Once again I found that distances are deceiving when driving in Costa Rica. I was on the homestretch, and the sign read 18 kilometers to Tamarindo via route #160. However, the deeply-pitted gravel road took a good 45 minutes to navigate. In the rainy season, this short cut to the beach is nearly impossible without four-wheel drive.
I watched in amusement as jellybean-sized rental cars barreled down the rutted road, bottoming out on giant potholes. A few days later I would hear these same cars making horrible rattling noises as they limped along the main street of Tamarindo. Clouds of dust enveloped the dirt roads, a signal that summer was officially here. Dry streets and blue skies were a welcome relief after a long and heavy rainy season.
My destination was Luna Llena, a boutique hotel just off the main road in town. The hotel was bright and cheerful, with spacious rooms and
two-story bungalows set around a pool. It was a peaceful oasis amid the widespread development that is now Tamarindo. My tastefully decorated room had a private balcony overlooking the pool and came equipped with A/C, a safe and cable. Moreover, it was amazingly quiet. After five hours of driving, which in Costa Rica is an adventure sport in itself, I longed for a hot shower and some food. I cranked up the air
conditioner and nipped out for a quick bite to eat.Tomorrow I would explore Tamarindo. Seven years had passed since my last visit, and I anticipated many changes.
Contact Info:
Hotel Luna Llena
Tel. 506-653-0082
Email: lunalle@racsa.co.cr
www.hotellunallena.com
