Costa Rica Vacation Journals

Standing next to this massive tree, I felt particularly tiny in the world. We all sensed some sort of spiritual connection to this weathered, towering giant. In fact, the Mayan people of Central America believed that the Ceiba tree was rooted at the earth’s core and connected the spirit-world to the terrestrial world.

We rock-hopped along a narrow river flowing with cool mountain water. The sunlight barely filtered to the forest floor, so dense was the canopy above us. A quick ten-minute hike uphill led us back to our car and we returned to Villa Vanilla just in time to begin the farm tour.

The tour was completely hands-on, as we stopped to smell and taste aromatic spices and herbs. From the intoxicatingly sweet ylang-ylang, a very female scent, to the peppery aroma of allspice, a male scent- we explored the yin and yang of the plant world. The farm also cultivates a delicately-flavored species of cinammon and spicy black pepper plants.

Of course, the highlight of the farm is vanilla, rated the most popular flavor in the world. Native to Mexico and Central America, vanilla is one of the most labor-intensive crops to maintain. Henry explained that each vanilla orchid is carefully fertilized by hand and usually yields six to eight beans per flower. The beans are then cured for several months to develop that rich, bourbon essence that gives vanilla its unique flavor. The farm exports large quantities of vanilla to the States and to local restaurants and hotels.

Given the amount of work entailed, I was amazed at the low cost of the farm’s vanilla products. We visited the onsite Spice Shop where our tour group stocked up on pure vanilla extract, dried vanilla beans, organic cinnamon sticks and some savory chili-infused hot chocolate.

Whether your interests lie in gardening, sustainable agriculture, or rainforest spices, a visit to Villa Vanilla is highly recommended. I left with an appreciation for biodynamic farming and a hankering for all things vanilla.

I couldn’t head home without indulging in one of my favorite pastimes: an afternoon at the Day Spa. Nothing soothes travel-weary muscles like a healing massage, and I was in for a treat with massotherapist Walter at Spa Uno.

Located just off the main road between Quepos and Manuel Antonio, Spa Uno features warm-stone massages, cleansing facials, chocolate-mint mineral scrubs and several rejuvenating spa packages. I loved that the spa only uses organic products, all of which were specially-developed by owner, Molly McBride. The “Raw Botanicals” line is hand-crafted in small batches using many local ingredients.

The spa was tastefully-decorated in warm colors with comfortable treatment rooms both inside and out on their treetop observation deck. I melted into warm flannel sheets, ready for my traditional massage. Using organic products that I secretly wanted to eat like almond oil and mango dream cream, my massage was anything but traditional. My therapist gently placed a vanilla-bean pillow across my eyes. Intoxicated by the delicious scent of French-vanilla cake, it seemed my day had a vanilla theme.

Just when I thought my full-body massage was over, I was treated to a papaya facial and banana hair mask—a little surprise for all guests. Coated in tropical fruits and oils, I smelled (and probably tasted) delicious. Feeling completely relaxed and refreshed, I took a quick shower before thanking my fabulous massage therapist. I would surely return to Spa Uno, and next time for a full day of pure bliss!

Contact Info:
Villa Vanilla
Farm Telephone: 506-779-1155
Cell: 506-839-2721
Email: vanilla@racsa.co.cr
www.rainforestspices.com

Spa Uno
Telephone: 506-777-2607
Email: info@spauno.com
www.spauno.com

# posted by Ali : 1:31 PM  1 comments

The skies were a deep azure blue. A cool breeze rustled through the palms above me. I watched boogie boarders tackle the waves while sipping on a cold young coconut juice. Listening to the roaring surf, I sank back into the soft sand and drifted off for a few minutes. I wondered how I had let seven years pass between visits to this sublime place. Even though Manuel Antonio is a hot spot on the tourist trail, the town’s public beach was nearly empty. And if it filled up, three secluded beaches waited just inside the park.

Across the street from the beach were outdoor cafes, souvenir shops and the local association of licensed tour guides. Visitors can hire their own naturalist guide for around $20 per person to tour the national park. A great deal considering the guides are well-versed in native flora and fauna and the income helps support the local economy.

It was the perfect sort of day for chilling on the beach – the sun was shining and beautiful surfers made for excellent people watching. But I would have to return another day, as Vincent and I would be zipping through the rainforest with Dream Forest Canopy tours. One of the country’s most popular adventure sports, canopy tours are an exhilarating way to experience the rainforest and dispel any fear of heights. There is no upper age limit, and kids as young as three are welcome to join in the fun.

I confirmed our afternoon adventure with Oscar, one of the helpful staff at Dream Forest Canopy. If you’re ever visiting Quepos / Manuel Antonio and want the inside scoop on where to eat, sleep or party, then Oscar is your man.

Today we had a small group, just us and a nice couple from Ohio. With two guides and Dream Forest’s photographer, we drove a few minutes to the rainforests of Villanueva. There, our guides outfitted us with harnesses, helmets and special leather gloves designed for braking. I was a little nervous about the whole braking process but was assured I wouldn’t crash into a tree.

We climbed up to the first platform where we were immediately clipped in to a safety line. Our guide Walter carefully outlined body positioning and instructions on how and when to brake. Our first cable was short, enabling us to get comfortable flying through the trees. A guide would send us off and another would be waiting, giving us hand signals to brake as needed.

We took turns flying from one platform to another, zooming through the jungle at fantastic speeds. The braking system turned out to be a no-brainer—simply enjoy the ride and brake at the very end (the tree rushing toward you is your clue). The canopy tour had seven zip lines in total but my favorite was the 2000-foot cable dubbed the “Dream Line”. No fear, no stress—just pure adrenaline as I flew above the treetops for nearly one minute.

Our guide spotted a sloth sleeping in the trees and pointed out native flora like alligator trees and fig stranglers. Thomas, Dream Forest’s professional photographer, got some great shots which were available for purchase on a CD.

After the tour, our guides took us to a small soda (a simple eatery serving local food) where we snacked on tropical fruit and freshly-baked empanadas. Filled up on tasty goodness, we bid goodbye to the Dream Forest Canopy crew, thanking them for a spectacular afternoon.

Tonight, our last in Manuel Antonio, we’d be staying at Villa Vanilla, an organic farm brimming with rainforest spices such as cinnamon, black pepper, allspice, cacao and vanilla. The farm is a tropical laboratory for biodynamic agriculture and sustainable practices. It is the sort of place a spice-lover and foodie like me could learn a thing or two about organic farming and stock up on aromatic spices and pure vanilla extract.

Set on 150 acres in the pueblo of Villanueva, Villa Vanilla is lovingly owned and operated by Henry Karcyzinsky, former Peace Corps volunteer and vanilla visionary. We joined Henry in one of his rustic guest cabins on the farm and chatted about his passion for vanilla, the only edible orchid of more than 30,000 species.

After a couple of unusually wet years in 95 and 96, much of Costa Rica’s vanilla crops were wiped out. As vanilla was Henry’s primary cash crop, he searched for alternatives to conventional agriculture and decided to diversify the farm- planting native trees, ornamentals and other rainforest spices. By using biodynamic farming techniques, Villa Vanilla focuses on composting, recycling farm inputs and permaculture—all sustainable practices.

I kicked back on the front porch of our three-bedroom cottage while a storm brewed in the distance. Tomorrow Vincent and I would join Henry for an early morning hike to an enormous Ceiba tree and then explore the spice plantation on a farm tour. A gentle rain outside our rainforest cabin lulled me into a blissful sleep; tonight I would have sweet vanilla dreams.

Contact Info:
Dream Forest Canopy Tours
Telephone: 506-777-4567
Email: info@dreamforestcanopy.com
www.dreamforestcanopy.com

Villa Vanilla
Farm Telephone: 506-779-1155
Cell: 506-839-2721
Email: vanilla@racsa.co.cr
www.rainforestspices.com

# posted by Ali : 12:45 PM  1 comments

Second only to Poas Volcano in terms of visitors, Manuel Antonio National Park attracts over 160,000 people each year, all drawn to its wide beaches and troops of monkeys that frequent the area. The park consists of mangrove swamps, primary rainforests and marshy woodlands and is bordered by the clear waters of the Pacific Ocean. It is a haven for over 100 mammal species including the highly endangered squirrel monkey, or mono titi.

En route to Manuel Antonio, our driver spotted a mother three-toed sloth and her baby, high in a cecropia tree. Algae tinted her fur a mossy green, the perfect camouflage for a tree-dwelling creature. This was my first glimpse of a baby sloth in the wild, and its sweet face seemed to smile back at me.

Due to the rising tide, we crossed a small river outflow via water taxi to enter the park. Others opted to hop across rocks at a shallower point near the sea. The park contains three stretches of beautiful beaches, each shaded by enormous coconut palms and almond trees. The shores are occasional nesting grounds for Olive Ridley and Pacific green turtles.

Eric pointed out howler monkeys, long-nosed bats, spiny iguanas and a basilisk lizard on our tour. We followed the coastal trail to Punta Catedral, a rocky land bridge that juts into the sea. A large troop of curious white-faced monkeys, or capuchins, climbed down from the tree tops and scampered along the shore. They moved in a single file, foraging for leaves and fruit with tiny, dextrous hands, and seemed oblivious to our presence. One of the most intelligent primates, white-faced monkeys have been observed rubbing leaves on their bodies as a natural insect repellent.

A lone, white-nosed coatimundi joined us along the path, rooting for insects and crabs with his sensitive snout. His reddish-brown, pointy tail held high told other male coatis that this was his turf. We followed our guide up a hill overlooking “La Trampa”, an ancient trap made by the Quepoa Indians many years before. The indigenous tribe had strategically placed rocks along the shore to snare fish, turtles and crabs at low tide.

Typical for a summer day, the clouds rolled in, bringing with them a quick downpour. Unfazed by the soaking, we trudged onwards and spotted a female tropical night lizard, which according to our guide, could clone itself without the aid of a male. Although the endangered squirrel monkeys eluded us that day, the sloths and white-faced monkeys were definite highlights.

After a quick lunch in Quepos, we again joined Eric and Ave Natura for an afternoon boat ride to nearby Damas Island. Famous for its lush mangrove estuaries and peaceful environment, Damas is home to crocodiles, caimans, monkeys, raccoons and a variety of waterfowl.

We trolled through narrow canals edged by red and black mangroves and tall African palms. The island was formed by river sediment deposits trapped by the mangrove’s pioneering roots over thousands of years. Damas Island, home to a mere 30 families, appeared to be a sleepy backwater community and reminded me of the estuaries native to my hometown in South Carolina.

With our boat captain Andres’ help, Eric spotted a four-foot crocodile hidden in the mangrove roots. Green kingfishers plunged into the brackish water in search of a meal while cicadas hummed all around us. A basilisk lizard ran across the surface of the water just in front of our boat, clearly worthy of its nickname, the Jesus Christ lizard.

Eric identified white ibis, a yellow-crowned night heron and several snowy egrets along the shores. A troop of white-faced monkeys jumped in the trees, and Vincent caught a glimpse of a raccoon. Our boat ride was so peaceful and quiet, and I was glad that Damas was a protected area and would not be developed.

We thanked our Ave Natura guide for a great day of sightseeing and wildlife encounters. Vincent and I returned to La Colina to freshen up before dinner. But first I wanted a dip in the hotel’s pool. I had the water all to myself, not surprising as the hotel only has 13 rooms, and most visitors were still at the beach. I love traveling in the wet season (May through November) as there are fewer crowds, wide open beaches and competitive hotel rates.

I lounged at the pool’s swim-up bar before heading in for a quick change. Vincent and I tried a new tapas bar, my ultimate fantasy in a restaurant as you can sample a little bit of everything. It’s like being able to wander among the tables, trying a bite from each plate (but where nobody gets mad at you for sticking a fork in their grilled shrimp). Food also seems to taste better and fresher when you’re at the beach. Satiated by food, drink and two wonderful tours, and with a big day ahead of us, we returned to the sanctuary of our rooms at Hotel La Colina.

Contact Info:
Ave Natura - Nature Adventures
Telephone: 506-777-0973 / 506-777-4513
Email: info@avenatura.com or avenatura@racsa.co.cr
www.avenatura.com

# posted by Ali : 11:21 AM  1 comments

Quepos is synonymous with sport fishing and sailfish can be had year-round off the shores of this beach town. Today we were joining Luna Tours, a highly-respected outfit known for their record catches of sailfish, marlin and mahi mahi. Depending on the season, anglers might also catch wahoo, tuna, roosterfish, amberjack and snook.

Luna Tours features both inshore and offshore excursions, and arranges all-inclusive packages to accommodate just about any budget. The company owns five sport fishing boats, ranging from 28 to 45 feet, all equipped with full facilities and tackle along with the latest technology.

The sun shone on the water as we joined our captain, Raffael and mate Junior for a full day of deep-sea adventure. Fellow captain Ishmael, with a name that practically guaranteed a big catch, tagged along for the day. Raffa cranked up the twin engines and we motored out of the harbour, heading what seemed to be due west, over light chop toward the horizon.

I joined Raffa on the captain’s perch and learned that he had been running boats for 15 years and loves the sport so much he even fishes on his days off. Being August, the waters were slightly choppy, so Raffa took it slowly as we cruised 25 miles or so offshore. He explained that from December through April (the dry season), the water off Quepos is as clear and smooth as a mirror.

The sailfish had been hitting mostly in the afternoons, but we watched in anticipation as Junior and Ishmael expertly baited the lines with teasers and fresh bonito. Sure enough, around 10 a.m., one of the spools whined as a big fish took and ran with the bait. Immediately, Junior had the rod in hand, furiously reeling in, only to find a bare hook. This scenario played out a few more times, but I had faith.

About noon, the blue skies turned an ominous black and the rains began. We continued to troll slowly, rocking gently in the waves. As a low-country girl, I was practically born fishing placid lagoons and the lazy intracoastal waterway. But out here in the deep water, there were some tedious moments where I questioned my sea legs and was glad I’d skipped breakfast. I wasn’t prepared to head in without landing at least one game fish. And if anybody knew where to find a big fish, it was this crew.

The wind kicked up. An hour passed without a bite. Suddenly, out of nowhere, all three spools buzzed wildly as the lines went out. Ishmael and Junior bobbed around each other in amazing choreography, pulling in two beautiful yellow-fin tuna. I climbed into the fighting chair with the third line, adrenaline pumping, and began reeling as fast as I could. The very instant I realized I held a monster on the line, a 140-pound marlin jumped in the distance. I couldn’t believe how massive it was. We fought for 20 minutes and then it threw the bait, releasing itself a bit earlier than we’d hoped.

Not 20 minutes later, we hooked a 35-pound mahi mahi that fought just as long and hard as fish four times its size. Exhausted, I handed the rod to Ishmael who pulled in the iridescent fish. It was nearly 3 p.m., the surf continued to grow, and we’d be heading back soon. As if on cue, two sailfish hit at once and, with the crew’s help, we reeled them in after a couple of good jumps. Ishmael carefully draped each magnificent 120-pound sailfish across my lap for a quick photo before releasing them.

It had been a long day offshore, but we returned with the spoils of dedicated fishermen: smiles, some great catches and a story of the one that got away. I had seen my first marlin jump and landed two sailfish and one mahi mahi. Ishmael cut up the tuna and gave us five beautiful filets. We’d be dining on fresh sushi that night! I wobbled off the boat into a water taxi that carried us back to the dock. We thanked our awesome Luna Tour crew for an amazing day and promised to return. Perhaps in January, to fish in those smooth, mirror-like waters that Quepos is so famous for.

Tonight, we were headed to La Colina, a boutique hotel just off the road to Manuel Antonio. We arrived a bit late and were greeted by pleasant staff who led us to our ocean-view suites. Our rooms were airy and spacious, with two queen beds, a sitting area and terrace. Guests gathered in the hotel’s Sunset Terrace Restaurant which features seafood dishes, filet mignon and Thai curries, all prepared by chef/owner, Michael McDermott.

Beautifully-landscaped paths wind through the hotel property, blending seamlessly with the surrounding rainforest. Hotel La Colina offers its guests wireless internet, help with booking tours and a hearty breakfast each morning. Set back off the main road, we couldn’t hear any traffic from our rooms. Exhausted from our offshore adventures, I took a hot shower and crawled into my comfortable bed, still rocking with the waves.

Contact Info:
La Colina Lodge & Sunset Terrace
Telephone: 506-777-0231
USA: 1-800-686-4711
Email: lacolina07@gmail.com
www.lacolina.com

Luna Tours Sport Fishing
Telephone: 506-777-0725 / Cell: 506-869-4808
USA: 1-888-567-5488
Email: lunatours@aol.com
www.lunatours.net

# posted by Ali : 10:35 AM  0 comments

Our hosts were happy to book tours for guests and were very familiar with all of the local tour operators. However, we had already made plans to ride horseback along backcountry roads with Valmy Tours that day. Our guide, Valentin and his partner Silvia have been offering horseback tours on their farm for the past ten years and provide transportation, healthy horses, lunch and extensive knowledge of flora and fauna in the area.

We drove through Quepos to the small farming community of Villanueva, about 45 minutes away. As we readied ourselves for a three-hour journey, Valentin plucked some ripe rambutans from a nearby tree. We pried open the red hairy fruit, known locally as mamonchinos, and devoured the sweet and sour meat inside.

Our horses were a mixture of criollo and quarter horse- a blend noted for nobility, gentle temperament and endurance. Finca Valmy has over 60 horses, including pintos, palominos, appaloosas and our criollo blends.

Vincent and I had the pleasure of joining Quepos residents Julia and Paola for our scenic ride. As we ambled along hard-packed dirt roads, Valentin pointed out cinnamon trees, sour oranges, noni and other medicinal plants. My gentle horse, Sergeant, eagerly nipped bites of sugar cane and sweet guava along the way. We walked through the town of Tocori and sloshed through shallow rivers bordered by dense jungle.

The day was balmy and clear, the perfect riding weather. I was itching to gallop a little, but our horses knew the drill. As we approached a small incline, Julia’s mare took off, with Sergeant hot on her tail. We galloped uphill to a vista that overlooked the luminous sea surrounding Manuel Antonio. There, our guide Silvia pointed out a six-foot long non-venomous snake perched delicately in some branches next to our horses.

We continued on through both primary and secondary rainforest to a secluded waterfall in what seemed the middle of nowhere. We stripped down to our bathing suits and, carefully gripping the slippery rocks, climbed the first waterfall to a second, larger one where we swam in water that was refreshingly cool but not too cold.

Our loop trail traversed several more streams and, as our horses delicately navigated river stones, Valentin told me about an overnight horseback trip they offer to Tarrazu Mountain. The trip takes roughly five hours each way, and guests spend the night in cabins at a coffee plantation atop the mountain. The journey sounded ideal for seasoned riders and coffee addicts who want to experience something off the tourist trail. I’d have to come back.

At the end of our ride, we stopped at a local café for a typical Costa Rican lunch of chicken, rice, and salad. After our meal, we drove to another part of Finca Valmy where we watched several horses and their foals frolicking in the pastures. Valentin lured the mares in with molasses, one of their favorite treats.

It was nearly 4 p.m. by the time we returned to Las Cascadas Condotel. The rains held off, and I had time for a quick dip in the pool. I grabbed some pulp fiction from our condo’s lending library and lazed about in the late afternoon sun. Gary popped by to see how our tour had gone. We chatted about mutual acquaintances in Atenas and what a small world Costa Rica can be.

Along with Gary and Catalina, Vincent and I toured another three-bedroom condo, this one with spectacular ocean views, an outdoor patio and wet bar. The terracotta buildings cleverly blended in with the green environs, which occasionally attract squirrel and white-faced monkeys along with hundreds of birds.

The condotel is a quick five-minute jaunt from town and offers a quiet retreat after a long day of adventure. But what impressed us the most was the genuine hospitality of owners, Gary and Catalina. We would be sure to visit Las Cascadas again.

Contact Info:
Las Cascadas Condotel
Telephone: 506-777-4509 / Cell: 506-824-6931
Email: lascascadas840@hotmail.com
www.condotel-lascascadas.com

Valmy Tours
Horseback Riding
Telephone: 506-779-1118
Email: info@valmytours.com
www.valmytours.com

# posted by Ali : 10:01 AM  0 comments