Costa Rica Vacation Journals

Just when I thought my trip couldn’t get any better, I discovered that today, the last of my two-week journey in Arenal, I would be canyoneering with the family of Miguel Ángel Rodríguez, the former president of Costa Rica.

One of the ultimate Costa Rican adventure sports, canyoneering involves hiking into a deep rainforest canyon to rappel a series of tropical waterfalls using various climbing techniques. I joined my friends at Desafio Adventure Company for this adrenaline-fueled experience, one that I couldn’t wait to share with my family and friends back home.

We hopped into the back of a 4x4 for the 30-minute ride to the Lost Canyon, where a short hike down a steep incline took us into another world. Along the way we chatted with Miguel Ángel’s young grandchildren, two fearless brothers who couldn’t wait to get wet and wild on our canyoneering adventure.

We arrived at our first waterfall, where our four disarmingly-handsome Desafio guides helped us gear-up in harnesses, gloves and helmets. Although they kept the mood light with plenty of jokes, they exuded the kind of confidence that prompted complete trust. We carefully reviewed proper techniques before rappelling down the fall. At just 15-feet, it was the perfect size to get our feet wet (as well as other body parts) and prepare us for the rest, including a 210-foot giant at the very end.

That first step backward is always the hardest, even on the smallest of drops. My guide clipped me in, reassuring me that I had not one, but three safety ropes. I descended with ease, getting soaked in the process, and landed on terra firma with a grin. Before I knew it, my belay had unclipped me and given me a big thumbs up.

We scrambled along the narrow river canyon, climbing slippery rocks and using the classic butt-scoot maneuver to ease down mini-waterfalls. Sloshing our way to the next platform, we slid off rocks into small river pools that were waist-deep in cool mountain water. I felt like a kid again, exploring the lost world.

Waiting my turn to rappel a 155-foot fall, I realized that I was completely unafraid. For most of us, the anticipation was the most challenging part and we cheered one another on as we took turns rappelling the massive falls.

For one brief moment, I hesitated just before plunging off the platform. My guide looked me straight in the eyes and guaranteed me that I was safe with him. I took off with gusto and glided down the falls, occasionally bouncing in and out of the crashing waters.

By the time we reached the last waterfall, which towered more than 210-feet high, we felt like canyoneering pros. We zoomed down the sheer rocky surface, with what felt like superhuman powers.

In total, we had descended eight waterfalls in a pristine rainforest canyon, getting completely drenched in the process. Once again, Desafio Adventure Company had delivered some serious fun.

After a short hike out of the canyon, we devoured some fresh pineapple while our guides loaded up the gear. We piled into the back of the truck and headed to the lovely riverfront home of Suresh and Christina Krishnan (Desafio’s owners) for a home-cooked lunch in their rancho.

While enjoying good conversation with our guides on the riverbank, I saw Miguel Ángel join his family for lunch. No bodyguards, no fanfare - just a nice family laughing over the day’s escapades. The whole experience was slightly surreal, and added a wonderful touch to an already magical day.

By the time I arrived at Mountain Paradise Hotel, it was late afternoon. A brand new resort with prime volcano views, the hotel offers posh Jacuzzi suites with in-room wireless (including free use of laptops), and private terraces. The rooms were rustic and luxurious all at once, with natural wood beams, a large rough-hewn canopy bed, white-washed adobe walls and Spanish tile roofs.

In addition to the rustic style, I loved the suite’s rainshower, set in river rock and decorated with fresh orchids. Mountain Paradise Hotel offers its guests free shuttle service to and from La Fortuna center, but I had other plans. After a long soak in the Jacuzzi and early dinner, I crawled into the comfort of crisp, clean sheets in my king-sized bed for a pampered sleep.

Contact Info:
Desafio Adventure Company
Tel: (506) 479-9464
Email: info@desafiocostarica.com
www.desafiocostarica.com

Mountain Paradise Hotel
Tel: (506) 460-0403
Email: reservations@hotelmountainparadise.com
www.hotelmountainparadise.com

No need for an alarm clock this morning. I had gulped down my second coffee by 5:30 a.m., and was buzzing with energy as I drove to the dam for a big day of sport fishing with Captain Ron’s Lake Arenal Fishing Tours.

Growing up, I tagged along with my uncle and fished the freshwater lagoons and intra-coastal waters of our small barrier island. I quickly discovered that I was an angler at heart—I loved casting, baiting the hook and the thrill of a hard-fighting fish.

Created in 1979, Lake Arenal is home to the beautiful guapote (rainbow bass), some of the best-fighting freshwater fish in Costa Rica. Meaning “the most handsome” in Spanish, guapote are called rainbow bass due to their iridescent colors and similarities to the largemouth bass. I was hoping to land a big one, and guapote can weigh upwards of 13 pounds.

Today I was fishing with Captain Ron Saunders, a seasoned angler from the States who is currently based in Nuevo Arenal. Captain Ron fishes the entire 33 square mile lake, from the base of the volcano to small coves along the northwestern shores and has pulled some of the biggest bass on record from the lake.

Ron mentioned that we might also land some machaca, flashy fish with wicked little teeth that look like piranhas on steroids. We cruised along in his Boston whaler and found some nice coves with vegetation and old tree stumps, perfect hiding spots for rainbow bass. I used light tackle, cast with a small popper, and just as the lure touched the water, a nice half-pound pinto guapote hit the line. A perfect start to the day!

The sky was gray and misty, ideal casting weather for the light-sensitive rainbow bass that dwell in deeper waters on sunny days. We cast our lines along quiet coves and alternated our lures (poppers and rapalas) and soon landed several more guapote, ranging up to two and three pounds. It was touch-and-go reeling them in, as they fought hard to snag the line or cut it with their razor-sharp teeth.

We trolled for a bit and I snacked on a sandwich and some homemade guacamole that Ron’s wife had packed for us. We pulled in a small machaca and an eating-size guapote within minutes of putting out the lines. A proponent of catch and release, I only kept a couple of two-pounders, which would go to Godfried at La Mansion Inn since I’d promised I’d catch him some fish.

It had been an excellent morning of fishing Lake Arenal. With Captain Ron’s expertise, I had landed nine good-sized rainbow bass, and you couldn’t beat the scenery of Arenal Volcano looming on the horizon.

In a mad dash, I delivered my fish (still alive and flip-flopping) to their certain fate, so I could return for another delicious evening of hedonism at Tabacón.

There is something inherently funny about watching grown men and women wander hotel grounds in fluffy bathrobes. Such is life at the thermal resort, and I couldn’t wait to join them. I put on my bikini and pink Tabacón robe and called for the resort’s shuttle to the hot springs.

At night, Tabacón’s thermal resort transforms into a happening party spot, where new friendships are formed. It is also the ultimate romantic retreat for couples.

My first stop was a steaming waterfall where I tucked behind the wall of piping hot water into a sauna-like cave carved from volcanic rock. The crashing waters massaged my shoulders, easing away every bit of tension. I managed to get lost twice while exploring the warren of trails, lush with heliconia and bird of paradise.

I could think of worse places to find myself lost, as I climbed into a deserted pool for another long soak.

Contact Info:
Captain Ron’s Lake Arenal Fishing Tours
Tel: (506) 339-3345
Email: captron@arenalfishing.com
www.arenalfishing.com

Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort
Tel: (506) 519-1900/U.S. 1-877-277-8291
Email: info@tabacon.com
www.tabacon.com

A big day ahead of me, I indulged in several helpings at the breakfast buffet before my morning horseback ride to the 70-meter high La Fortuna Waterfall, a popular tourist attraction. I was riding with Desafio Adventure Company, a tour operator reputed for its safe horseback trips from La Fortuna to Monteverde (and vice versa), and scrupulous choice in local ranches that use only healthy and well-rested horses.

At the stables, I was excited to see a few familiar faces from yesterday’s volcano hike. Tours are a great way to meet other travelers, swap stories and make new friends. While we waited for the rest of our group to arrive, I enjoyed the antics of a mare and her day-old foal. We laughed as the foal bucked wildly, nudging her mother constantly, getting used to her wobbly legs. The horses were a mixture of criollo, palominos, quarter horses and pintos, all tacked and raring to go.

Our personable guides, Rudy and Miron, were both competent horsemen and gave us each a riding helmet while they went about assigning horses to riders. I had eyed a beautiful large grey mare and hoped she’d be my ride for the day. Sure enough, Rudy handed me the harness to Shakira who stood next to Bombero, Melissa, Gitano and Seven Deaths.

We headed out in the light rain, looking suave and sleek in our giant daypacks and neon ponchos. There were 12 of us in total, including a fun group of rowdy Aussies that rode in little more than bathing suits and helmets.

The 45-minute ride traversed small streams and beautiful pastures that in the dry season would be ideal for a full-out gallop. Shakira was a spirited ride and I’d hoped that we would canter. She was also smarter than me and opted to delicately trot around the muddy holes that pitted the ground.

Our horses jostled for space during river and fence crossings and all got along, save for a cheeky palomino that always had to be first in line. We parked our horses and hiked down a very steep, well-marked path to the towering La Fortuna Waterfall. Although the water was downright chilly, the Aussies jumped in, soon followed by several others for a refreshing swim in the churning waters.

The 20-minute hike back up got the blood flowing, and I was ready to get off my feet and on my horse. Tequila, the ranch’s sweet cattle dog, ran alongside us the whole way back, and Rudy showed off his cowboy spirit with a little lasso action.

We took our time returning to the stables, enjoying the scenic ride and good conversation. Our strong and sure-footed steeds were a pleasure to ride, and our Desafio guides' cheerful spirits added sunshine to the day.

I had time for a quick change of clothes before heading to Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort. Above and beyond their well-appointed rooms, one of the perks of staying at Tabacón is unlimited access to its legendary hot springs. Straight out of the Garden of Eden, the springs are the sexiest spa experience I’ve encountered on my travels.

Natural river pools and mini-waterfalls fed by the volcano-heated waters of Río Tabacón are spread over lush grounds, where visitors can wander from one pool to the next, piña coladas in hand. Folks can mingle in the swim-up bar, or treat themselves to an outdoor massage at the resort’s grand spa.

I changed into my suit and took turns soaking in the various pools, the hottest around 102 ºF. By dusk the place was hopping, as large tour groups arrived for drinks, dinner and a swim. With so many trails leading to different river pools, I had no problem finding a quiet sanctuary where I could soak in peace.

The evening’s festivities were well underway, but my pink skin and tired eyes signaled my return to the room. Tabacón offers its guests free shuttle service to and from the hot springs, but the air was cool, and I felt like walking the few minutes back to the hotel. The steaming mineral waters had relaxed every muscle in my body, a perfect precursor to a blissful sleep.

Contact Info:
Desafio Adventure Company
Tel: (506) 479-9464
Email: info@desafiocostarica.com
www.desafiocostarica.com

Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort
Tel: (506) 519-1900/U.S. 1-877-277-8291
Email: info@tabacon.com
www.tabacon.com

While I was well away from the high risk zone, there was something slightly thrilling yet unsettling about sleeping so close to an active volcano. Last night, Arenal’s loud, thunder-like booms woke me twice.

Disoriented by sleep, I stumbled about my room, wondering if a storm was rolling in. A few hours later the sun rose and blue skies prevailed. Finally, a clear and beautiful morning in La Fortuna!

I joined a nice group of travelers from Jamaica for Montaña de Fuego’s buffet breakfast and enjoyed the view of Arenal from our table. Making the most of the sunshine, I took a morning dip in the pool and wandered to the hotel’s own tilapia-filled lake (the source of my fresh fish last night), home to some of the funniest looking ducks I’ve ever seen.

I spent a few hours checking out the many art galleries and wood shops lining the road out of La Fortuna. There were lots of wood carvings from mahogany, ron-ron and guanacaste as well as hammocks and indigenous art. Arenal loomed on the horizon, dwarfing everything around it.

Late afternoon, I joined Sunset Tours for a volcano hike along El Silencio Trail. While not actually hiking the volcano itself, we were close enough to hear loud rumbles and had fun trekking in the rain. Our outgoing guide, Jaime, explained that we kept a distance for a very valid reason- potential pyroclastic flows.

A mixture of hot rocks and gases, a pyroclastic flow can move at speeds of 80 kilometers per hour, wiping out everything in its path. Such dangerous avalanches have occurred as recently as 2006. We were assured, however, that due to Arenal Volcano´s constant strombolian activity and careful monitoring, an eruption the magnitude of 1968 was not imminent. At least, we hoped not today.

We began at an observation point and saw rivers of black marking where old lava flows had destroyed vegetation along the slopes. Amazingly, pre-1968, locals would regularly climb the volcano, which was then called Arenal Peak or Pan de Azucar (sugar loaf).

The wet drizzle was fitting as we hiked an easy trail through the rainforest, spotting spider monkeys, a sleeping sloth and a black-cheeked woodpecker. Jaime pointed out a spiky red fruit known as monkey comb, along with massive ceiba and ironwood trees that kept us relatively dry in the rain.

Our volcano hike ended with a visit to the same washed-out bridge near the Observatory Lodge that afforded great lava views. Arenal’s thick, boulder-strewn lava was much different than the smooth, liquid lava of most Hawaiian volcanoes. Later, most of the folks on our Sunset Tour visited one of Fortuna’s many hot springs (an add-on option of the tour). After two hours of walking in the rain it sounded like a perfect idea, but I would be going tomorrow.

Ravenous from the hike, I devoured some fresh tilapia ceviche and avocado salad at Montaña de Fuego’s restaurant before heading back to my cozy room.

Contact Info:
Sunset Tours
Tel: (506) 479-9585 / 479-9800
Email: info@sunsettourcr.com
www.sunsettourcr.com

Montaña de Fuego Hotel and Spa
Tel: (506) 460-1220
Email: arehotel@montanadefuego.com
www.montanadefuego.com

Curtains open, I awoke to an overcast sky, still heavy with the evening’s rain. Never too early for a Jacuzzi, I crawled into the bubbling water, drank my coffee and watched the morning news. I now understood why Kioro is so popular with honeymooners. Returning from the fabulous breakfast smorgasbord, I passed the hotel’s gym, but quickly dismissed any idea of real exercise.

It was time to move on and I had lunch plans in La Fortuna. Always on the lookout for haute cuisine, I joined some Swiss travelers for some meat-on-a-stick at an outdoor kiosk. In truth, it was just chicken, grilled and perfectly spiced. And at $1 per stick it was a cheap and tasty meal.

Tonight I was staying at Montana de Fuego Hotel and Spa, one of La Fortuna’s first resorts, built 15 years ago, when eco-tourism equaled little more than a few adventurous backpackers. Begun with simple camping sites, the hotel’s 60 acres now encompass contemporary individual rooms and suites, a spa, canopy tour, horse stable and restaurant.

Montana de Fuego faces the northeast side of the volcano and hotel owner Sinia Villegas explained that September through November are the best months for volcano viewing. Although still the rainy season, the evenings tend to clear on a more regular basis.

The hotel grounds were lushly landscaped, offering each cottage a sense of privacy. My stand-alone room had an enclosed terrace with, you guessed it, great volcano views. No one ever seems to tire of gazing at Arenal, as it plays a game of hide-and-seek with the clouds.

Hiking boots and insect repellent on, I was ready for my Night Walk with Jacamar Naturalist Tours. Gustavo, my guide for the evening, accompanied me to Ecocentro Danaus, named for the monarch butterflies that it houses. Danaus is a privately-run ecological reserve that includes forested trails, a butterfly garden and medicinal plants.

We arrived at dusk and had the grounds to ourselves. Flashlights in hand, we quietly began our two-hour walk along winding trails. We were hoping to spot some nocturnal creatures, and recent sightings included kinkajous, armadillos, agouti, frogs, and the eyelash pit viper.

Before I knew it, the sky was pitch black. Whispering back and forth, I felt like I was 12 years old, on some quest for an undiscovered beast. Bats zoomed over our heads and large boat-billed herons cackled in the distance. The air was thick and sweet with night-blooming jasmine.

Gustavo started chirping, on the hunt for the red-eyed tree frog. After only a few minutes, we found two, both stuck on the underside of leaves with their specially-adapted feet. He rooted around in a pile of dead leaves and found a small poison dart frog, dubbed blue jeans for its indigo legs.

I heard a rustling in the branches and found what I thought was a new species of opossum. I shrieked in excitement but Gustavo patiently explained that it was nothing more than a vesper rat, but complimented me on my sharp listening skills.

We searched for reflective eyes and saw the red glints of caiman in the lagoon and far more spiders than I care to remember. Plants and flowers took on a sinister appearance, with spikes and thorns and alien fur. Just at the end, Gustavo called me over to a pair of yellow dink frogs mating, something you’d expect to see on the Discovery Channel.

We returned to my hotel where I thanked my informative Jacamar guide for an excellent night walk. I visited Montana de Fuego’s restaurant, Acuarelas, for a late dinner of grilled tilapia with hearts of palm and sautéed veggies—all delicious and reasonably priced for such an upscale hotel.

Contact Info:Jacamar Naturalist Tours
Tel: (506) 479 9767 or (506) 479-9768
Email: jacamar@arenaltours.com
www.arenaltours.com

Montaña de Fuego Hotel and Spa
Tel: (506) 460-1220
Email: arehotel@montanadefuego.com
www.montanadefuego.com

When you visit Arenal in the wet season, (May-November) you expect a bit of rain, but this morning’s howling winds and light chop were enough to postpone my fishing trip on Lake Arenal. Over a 5 a.m. wake-up call, the captain and I decided to cast a line another day.

I savored another free morning on my terrace and watched the storm slowly dissipate. After a healthy breakfast at the inn, I was loading my bags when Kristian, one of the friendly staff, noticed a nasty oil leak under my car - the joys of owning an 18-year-old 4x4! One of the advantages of living in Costa Rica is that all Ticos seem to know somebody who can fix your car, motorcycle, or kitchen sink, and they are always a quick phone call away.

Kristian recommended a local guy in Nuevo Arenal, an eight-mile drive down the potholed road from La Union. Just in case, he drew me a map, explaining the exact location of "Alexander the oil man’s" workshop. Alexander welcomed me with a toothy grin and dropped whatever he was doing to find the source of my problem. A little Teflon, some elbow grease and a new quart of oil and voila, the leak was fixed. Ten minutes and $3 later, I was on my way.

I cruised around Nuevo Arenal, getting a lot of curious stares from locals. It seemed a point of transit between La Fortuna and Tilaran, and not really a destination in itself. Originally located in the area now occupied by Lake Arenal, the town was moved to higher grounds when the lake was flooded and expanded by ICE (the Electrical Institute) in 1974.

Nuevo Arenal had a commercial strip with several restaurants, a bank, gas station and hardware store, but lacked the landscaped parque central that defines most small towns. I noticed several tourists stopping for lunch and picking up supplies, all en route to further destinations.

Confident that my car would not overheat and die, I followed the rutted road back to La Fortuna and stopped briefly at the Arenal Dam where fishing and tourist boats clustered on the lake.

I was on my way to a relatively new five-star resort, Arenal Kioro Suites and Spa. Built in 2005, the plush hotel is situated on a ridge less than three miles from the volcano. As its name implies, all of Kioro’s rooms are suites, equipped with indoor Jacuzzis and fantastic views of Arenal.

It became clear that my ancient 4x4 was something of a novelty when I pulled into reception. Next to the gleaming new rental cars, my weathered truck was a sore thumb. Nevertheless, I was treated with great care and attention by Kioro’s staff that wanted nothing more than to please me.

My suite had floor-to-ceiling windows, a perfectly-heated Jacuzzi and fluffy cotton robes. Kioro was designed with volcano views in mind. The bellman pointed out that even my shower boasted a fabulous peek at Arenal. I could see the looming giant from every angle in my suite except the loo, where privacy took precedence.

Here, my hedonistic tendencies could be indulged, but first I wanted to visit Titoku, Kioro’s hot springs. The resort offered free shuttle service, but I drove the few kilometers myself as I wanted to stop in town for a few things.

Titoku had eight thermal pools, each with hydro-massage jets. Even though my glasses steamed up, I chose the hottest pool at the top and relaxed with a few other guests.

I returned in time for a fine dinner at Kioro’s restaurant, Heliconias. With three waiters all to myself, I enjoyed a cream of pejibaye soup (which tasted like a cross between a chestnut and potato) and herbed penne pasta in white wine. Back in my suite, I soaked away the calories in my Jacuzzi, scouted the mini-bar and crawled under soft Egyptian cotton sheets.

Volcano watching is practically a sport in the wet season. And with my window open, I could hear my neighbors ooing and aaahing as the clouds rolled away, revealing glimpses of Arenal.

Contact Info:
Arenal Kioro Suites and Spa
Tel: (506) 461-1700
Email: info@hotelarenalkioro.com
www.hotelarenalkioro.com

I woke revitalized and a little later than usual as I had no early morning tour. Sitting on my terrace enjoying a steaming cup of coffee, I watched the inn’s 20 beautiful horses wander freely on pastures overlooking Arenal Lake.

The sky was gray and misty, the perfect sort of weather for nesting inside and reading a book, or catching up on emails with in-room wireless. But this trip was not about lounging indoors; today I would once again indulge in one of my favorite activities and ride one of La Mansion Inn’s sturdy criollo horses (a well-tempered breed with Spanish and Peruvian bloodlines, common in Costa Rica).

I love European breakfasts. They tease my tastebuds with a variety of warm, homemade breads served with butter, jellies and a plate of cheeses. Presented with a silver platter of fresh fruits, I ate like a queen. Completely satisfied with this alone, I was then handed a menu and could order anything from huevos rancheros to cinnamon French toast. I opted for the garlic cheese grits, one of my grandfather’s lowcountry specialties and a longtime favorite of mine. The attentive staff brought me an entire carafe of fresh coffee to compliment my scrumptious meal.

La Mansion Inn offers its guests several tours in the area, and are distinguished for their healthy and well-maintained horses. I met my guide, Miguel, for a two-hour ride along the hills above the inn. He introduced me to Galope (gallop), my beautiful steed for the day. Standing at least 16 hands, this massive horse was well-muscled and one of the largest and healthiest I had ever ridden in Costa Rica.

Miguel was a man of few words, but when I asked if we could run a little, his eyes lit up. Galope lived up to his name and took off with great speed, seemingly reading my mind. His gait was smooth, and I trusted him completely. He did not require a bridle and bit, only a harness, and stopped with a gentle tug. We climbed a ridge overlooking the lake, past green pastures and docile cows.

I could have ridden all day, but a storm rolled in so we began our descent to the inn. Galope carried me with sure-footed steps downhill. I dried off in time to visit nearby Toad Hall, a local art gallery and café famous for its melt-in-your-mouth brownies.

Named Toad Hall after The Wind in the Willows by its original British owners, the restaurant serves up tasty meals, using organic ingredients and fresh garden greens. I talked with the down-to-earth owner, Dave, over a spicy vegetarian burrito before perusing the art gallery. In addition to indigenous art works, the gallery sold folk-art, pottery, paintings and jewelry, all crafted by local artists.

Toad Hall was as laid-back and funky as its name, and is an ideal stop for breakfast or lunch. I was too full for a brownie, but would stop by the next day without fail.

I retreated to my cozy chalet at La Mansion Inn for a late afternoon soak in their 12-person Jacuzzi overlooking the lake. I had it all to myself since all the other guests were out on tours for the day. The sunset was spectacular and cast a warm, crimson light over the water.

Before joining me for dinner, Godfried showed me some of the inn’s other cottages, including the honeymoon suite, equipped with antique furniture, a fireplace and indoor Jacuzzi. I was already impressed with my own luxury cottage, but this was purely decadent.

I feasted on tender filet mignon and fresh greens topped with walnuts and strawberries. Our conversation topics included typical food in his native Belgium (mussels, seafood and lots of vegetables), our mutual love for Costa Rica and respective battles with leaf-cutter ants. His sincerity and charm struck me as the ideal combination for a successful hotelier.

La Mansion’s cozy bar and pool table were all but empty, most of the guests tired after a long day of adventure. It was late, and I had an early fishing trip the next morning. I said goodnight to Godfried and promised I’d catch him a large rainbow bass.

Contact Info:
La Mansion Inn
Tel: (506) 692-8018/ 692-8019
Email: info@lamansionarenal.com
www.lamansionarenal.com

Toad Hall Gallery & Restaurant
Tel: (506) 692-8001
Email: info@toadhall-gallery.com
www.toadhall-gallery.com

Refreshed after a good night’s rest and hearty breakfast, I was eager to visit El Congal, a private nature reserve covering 450 acres of primary and secondary forest located on the other side of Lake Arenal, west of the volcano.

Named for the congo (howler monkeys) that inhabit the reserve, El Congal is known for its biodiversity, impressive views and variety of microclimates. I met the reserve’s manager Alejandro, and his brother Johann, my naturalist guide for the day. En route to the lake, they explained that the protected reserve had been in their family for over 25 years. In 2005, El Congal was opened to the public, offering visitors a chance to hike scenic trails or ride horseback with a guide.

Mudslides from recent rains derailed our original plans to hike the reserve’s Los Sainos trail. Instead I joined Johann for a leisurely horseback ride through low-lying pastures near the shore of the lake. While I am a fan of rambling terrain, I don’t consider myself a true hiker, and was secretly glad to ride in lieu of a steep half-day hike.

A twenty-minute boat ride across a portion of Lake Arenal brought us to the reserve where our horses awaited us in the shade of a tree. Just next to ours, 15 fully-tacked horses patiently stamped their hooves and nosed each other, ready to embark on the popular La Fortuna to Monteverde trek. A large group of eager tourists mounted their horses, ready for their four-hour adventure into the cloud forests. From some of the anxious looks, I assumed a few were novice riders and were in for a long day.

Johann and I moseyed on, taking a wide dirt road towards the reserve’s reception area. A local farmer tending his cattle passed us on horseback and gave a friendly nod. Johann was an avid birder and pointed out American swallow-tail kites, the oro pendola and the cackle of a laughing falcon. The reserve was as beautiful as it was quiet; the only sounds aside from the birds were our horses’ soft breathing and the occasional whinny.

My guide was surprised at my excitement over a flock of fluffy white sheep, a relatively uncommon sight in Costa Rica. In my previous travels to Australia, I had developed a certain fondness for their distinctive personalities. Our horses carried us past beautiful lake views to an open-air rancho where we dismounted. From the reception area I could see the reserve’s two hiking trails that followed a steep ridge along the mountain. Guests have the option of a two or four-hour hike, and would likely see other wildlife in the dense foliage.

We returned to the lake where Johann shooed the horses back to their stables. The tour was a nice preview of El Congal’s trails, and I looked forward to returning another day. Alejandro, Johann and I shared conversation over a tipico lunch before I loaded up my car for the 45-minute drive to La Mansion Inn.

Tucked on the shore of Lake Arenal, La Mansion Inn is the type of resort that you never want to leave. Located in the pueblo of La Union, the inn offers intimate cottages with sweeping lake views. La Mansion has a reputation for personalized service and old world hospitality, and I looked forward to savoring every moment of my two-night stay.

I was warmly greeted in reception, and owner Godfried Ponteur invited me to join him for a glass of wine, endearing himself to me immediately. I was first whisked away to my split-level cottage, the interior a mixture of rich textures and colors, with hand-tooled Italian furniture, vibrant murals and a spacious Spanish-tiled bath. Decorated by Italian artists, with an eye for detail as well as comfort, my cottage was the ideal retreat. I tested out my sprawling king size bed (firm but comfy) and unpacked a little before exploring the inn’s grounds.

The sun peaking out, I seized the moment for a late afternoon dip in the infinity pool. Lounging in the warm waters overlooking the lake, I felt that life just didn’t get much better than this. I wandered into the inn’s cozy bar and dining area where I chatted with a nice honeymooning couple and met an outgoing family of six. Most folks had spent a few days in La Fortuna, but sought out La Mansion Inn for its charm and peaceful location.

There was a definite air of romance in the candle-lit dining room, and I pined a little for my fiancé. I was quickly distracted, however, by the gourmet menu which, unlike him, changes nightly, depending on what is available and fresh. One glance and I knew I’d be dining on mouth-watering jumbo shrimp, with sautéed squash and potatoes. Accompanied by a French wine, the meal was superb.

I retired to my inviting castle and watched a movie from the comfort of my bed before drifting off into a sublime sleep.
Contact Info:
El Congal Private Reserve
Tel: (506) 479-7064
Email: info@elcongal.org
www.elcongal.org

La Mansion Inn
Tel: (506) 692-8018/ 692-8019
Email: info@lamansionarenal.com
www.lamansionarenal.com

This morning Christina and Suresh Krishnan, the friendly owners of Desafio Adventure Company, greeted me with big smiles. A well-known and respected tour operator, Desafio is renowned in Arenal for its Class III to V whitewater tours on rivers that Suresh helped pioneer some fifteen years ago.

Today I was being treated to a personalized Community, Culture and Conservation Tour, a brand new excursion that Desafio offers, which allows visitors the opportunity to connect with the local community and learn about promising projects in the area. I was excited to partake in such a unique tour, one that was much needed in the adventure-driven region of Arenal.

Our first stop of the day was the Luna Nueva organic farm, located 30 minutes outside of La Fortuna. Started in 1994, its 208 acres encompass a medicinal plant farm, organic fruit and veggie garden, as well as a working ranch where pigs, goats, chickens, water buffalo and cattle are raised.

As explained by über-naturalist Steven, one of Luna Nueva’s partners, the farm’s main purpose is to connect people to their food. I really liked this concept, especially in an era of frenzied work schedules and fast-food consumption. The farm cultivates and exports over 50 tons of turmeric and ginger each year. Extolled for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, these spices along with other healing plants are used in conjunction with conventional methods to treat everything from cancer to Alzheimer’s.

Our tour began with a savory breakfast of fresh fruits, turmeric-seasoned brown rice and beans, natural juice and coffee, almost all of which was grown on the farm. Then began the real sensory explosion: a hands-on exploration of the medicinal plant farm. We ambled for over two hours through a maze of earthy patchouli plants, sweet lemongrass and spicy wasabi, constantly stopping to smell, taste and touch.

Steven was a walking encyclopedia on such nutrient-dense plants as chaya, which contains ten times more calcium than spinach, and the healing but foul-tasting noni fruit. Galangal, bush mint, bay rum and holy basil all conspired to overload my senses of taste and smell. Among the sixty varieties of fruit trees, the farm also grew jatropha, a new source of biofuel.

Guests have the option to spend more time at Luna Nueva (half-day or a full day), and may focus on anything from homemade cheese making, to composting or animal husbandry.

Filled-up on tasty herbs, we ate a light lunch before driving to the Proyecto Asis Animal Rescue Shelter, a privately-run wildlife rehabilitation center that rescues and cares for up to 40 animals at any given time. Named “Asis” for the patron saint of nature, the shelter was founded by a locally-famous veterinarian to house the many orphaned and injured animals brought to his practice.

I quickly fell in love with Perla, a white-lipped peccary (native wild pig) with more personality than a lot of people I know. Perla was brought to Proyecto Asis by a forest ranger after her mother was killed by poachers near the Nicaraguan border.

Supposedly the more aggressive of the two peccary species, Perla snorted away, vying for scratches on the back and her favorite treat, a raw chicken egg. The shelter director explained that peccaries are social animals and would likely ostracize Perla in the wild, making her survival as a wild pig a challenging one. If it hadn’t been for her overpowering musky scent, I would have considered pignapping her.

The shelter’s eight acres of primary and secondary forest included swampy areas that attracted local species like alligator snapping turtles, caiman, boat-billed herons and black-billed whistling ducks. Proyecto Asis also rescues animals, like Hercules the spider monkey that had been chained up as tourist attraction at a hotel.

I was able to feed Benjamin, a curious one-year-old kinkajou that fell from his nest in a tree. A nocturnal creature, he woke long enough to gobble a banana. Every evening the shelter staff takes Benjamin on a hike to get him used to being in the forest. They leave his cage door open at night in hopes that one day he will be ready to be a wild kinkajou once again.

One of the main goals of Proyecto Asis is to re-introduce all of the animals back into their natural habitat. It is easier with birds and reptiles than mammals since they are easily imprinted upon by humans and often need to be accepted by social groups in the wild.

In an effort to help generate funds, Proyecto Asis runs a cultural immersion program that includes a homestay with local families, volunteering at the shelter and Spanish classes. Volunteers are always welcome to help feed the animals, clean and build cages and plant trees. The opportunity is an excellent one to get hands-on experience in wildlife rehabilitation while helping a great cause.

We rounded out the day with a visit to AMURECI (Associacion de Mujeres de Reciclaje), a women’s arts and crafts cooperative in the tiny town of Santa Clara. Formed by ten women, the center makes and sells recycled paper products and offers “paper adventure” workshops where visitors are walked through the paper making process, which is surprisingly simple.

Their beautiful paper is made using banana fiber, shredded paper donated by the local hospital, some flowers and a press. I bought six large sheets of delicate flower paper for less than $5, a real bargain and a great souvenir. The women strive to teach the community to re-use, recycle and reduce, and make everything from picture frames to notebooks, all hand-painted with colorful Costa Rican motifs.

I thoroughly enjoyed every bit of Desafio’s new tour, as it offered a little something for everyone and a chance to connect with the community. I thanked my new friends Christina and Suresh before making my way to Hotel Jardines Arenal for some relaxation.

Less than a five-minute drive from Fortuna’s center, Hotel Jardines Arenal is just off the main road, before the town of El Tanque. I continued my cultural connection in chats with gracious Tico owner, Hernan. We dined on some delicious chicken curry as he told me about his work as a dairy farmer. Long before tourists were coming to Arenal, Hernan subsisted by raising cattle for milk and cheese production. As more tourists rolled in, the family built the hotel, with both inexpensive dorms and well-equipped, air-conditioned rooms.

The hotel had free wireless internet throughout as well as an onsite restaurant and kitchen access. A great option for the budget traveler, Hotel Jardines Arenal had friendly staff and bright, clean rooms. Hernan offered me some homemade dessert, but I declined. I was ready for bed and had another exciting day ahead of me.

Contact Info:
Desafio Adventure Company
Tel: (506) 479-9464
Email: info@desafiocostarica.com
www.desafiocostarica.com

Hotel Jardines Arenal
Tel: (506) 479-9728
Email: info@hoteljardinesarenal.com
www.hoteljardinesarenal.com

I have to admit, I am a big fan of the omelet station, or any station that involves other people preparing delicious food for my consumption. The breakfast buffet at Arenal Paraíso had it all: fried potatoes, pancakes and Tico favorites such as gallo pinto and plátanos. I ate lightly, mostly because I had butterflies in my belly about my upcoming canopy tour with Sky Trek Arenal.

Other than my irrational fear of heights, I had no real reason to be nervous. The Sky Trek zip line cables were constructed under strict safety measures and the metal pulleys could support 11,000 pounds, way more than I could eat at the omelet station. There was just something slightly unsettling about hurtling your body 40 miles per hour on a wire cable suspended 700 feet above ground.

Nearly seven years ago, I had braved Sky Trek’s canopy tour in the cloud forests of Monteverde. I was traveling with four male co-workers at the time, and distinctly remember wanting to prove myself unafraid of heights. With all of the canopy tours available, we chose Sky Trek for three reasons: a braking system that allows the guides to stop you, 2,450-foot long cables and, most importantly, a stellar safety record.

Upon arrival, Sky Trek Arenal’s staff ushered our group of 16 into an equipment room where, in assembly-line fashion, we were outfitted with hard hats, harnesses and various clips. Feeling ultra-cool in our eight pounds of gear and cock-eyed construction helmets, we signed our lives away on mandatory waivers before climbing into the Sky Tram cable cars for a mile-long ascent above the rainforest.

The fifteen-minute trip carried us to an observation deck with sweeping views of Arenal Lake and the Tilarán mountain range. I sized up my tour group and eyed a 65-year-old grandmother and children as young as nine. If they could do it, then so could I. One of our four guides outlined general safety rules, body-positioning and basically assured us that all we had to do was enjoy the ride. They would stop us, and gravity would do the rest.

There is no faster way to bond with complete strangers than harnessing yourself to a wire cable and flying 700 feet above ground with them. It promotes a sense of unity as you cheer others on, confident in the knowledge that you would not plummet to an early death.

Sky Trek started off with two very small practice zip lines to help us get comfortable with the experience, and offered us the option to discontinue if we felt a heart attack would ensue. Everyone, including the grandmother, decided to go for it.

The practice zips were nothing compared the third – it was a doozy, one of the highest on the tour. Our guide clipped in with a small child in tow and took off, hooting and laughing the whole way. The guides’ two-way radios enabled constant communication as we took turns soaring through the sky.

Our guides joked and laughed, clearly enjoying their jobs. I couldn’t imagine such an adrenaline rush everyday. Our tour ran two hours, as most often we had to wait for each person to cross the zip line before continuing to the next platform. The best part was watching everyone’s expressions as they barreled toward the next platform, that look of terror, fearing they would crash, but always stopped by the guides just in time.

Our last zip line was the big daddy, the longest at 2,475 feet. My legs shook like coconut flan as my guide clipped me in for the 45-second trip. I reminded myself to breathe as I sped along the cable, legs tucked in aero-dynamic position.

I was flying through the air at 40 miles per hour, and could only hear my own heart pounding and the wind rushing by. I turned to my right just long enough to see the volcano, the lake, and how unbelievably high I was soaring. And just when I started to breathe again and enjoy the experience, the trip was over just as quickly as it had begun.

In the end our slightly scared and serious faces had morphed into loopy smiles. And we had even managed to see some howler monkeys that were unafraid of herds of screaming tourists.

I returned from my canopy tour to more blue skies and had a few hours to enjoy Hotel Arenal Paraíso’s hot springs. I began with a cosmopolitan cocktail while lolling in the warm waters at the swim-up bar where I met some other travelers, mostly couples and some families. Then I migrated to the hottest pool, at the top of the path, where I soaked away any last fear of heights.

The thermal pools were all lushly landscaped and offered a soothing retreat at the end of the day. Everyone arranged their poolside lounge chairs to face the volcano and watched the clouds roll away.

Contact Info:
Sky Trek Arenal
Reservations: (506) 645-6003
Tel: (506) 479-9944
Email: reservations@arenalreserve.com
www.skytrek.com

Hotel Arenal Paraíso
Tel: (506) 460-5333
Email: info@arenalparaiso.com
www.arenalparaiso.com

While the lodge’s breakfast bonanza usually begins at 7 a.m., with advance notice the staff will provide continental fare as early as 6 a.m., which suited my schedule perfectly. I had an early pick-up by Aventuras Arenal, a local tour operator specializing in eco-tours, for a Safari Float down the Peñas Blancas River.

My guide Alvaro had twenty years of whitewater rafting experience, but today we wouldn’t need it. Our trip would be a leisurely float down Class I rapids through a part of the river that had been dammed for hydroelectric use.

Along the way, we passed large tracts of papaya trees, yucca plantations and fields of plátano and rice. The numerous dairy cattle farms reminded me that before the tourism boom of the 90’s, the area was primarily agriculturally driven. We drove through the tiny town of El Tanque where the annual patron saint celebration, complete with fiestas and Tico bullfights, were well underway.

Twenty minutes later, we arrived at a small dock in La Perla, where Alvaro and our driver Albert inflated our sturdy six-man raft while we each grabbed an oar and life jacket. Alvaro explained that the Peñas Blancas River originates in the Children’s Eternal Rainforest of Monteverde and is usually quite clear. Today the river took on a coffee-colored hue due to the silt and debris churned up by recent rains.

We reviewed some basic paddling commands but it was pretty obvious that our river trip would be far from demanding. Alvaro did most of the steering while we three passengers enjoyed the ride. The gentle current carried us past giant cecropia, balsa and ficus trees. Alvaro maneuvered us close to the shore to point out the bread fruit tree. The spiky green produce was a throwback to my Peace Corps days in Jamaica, where my Rastafarian homestay family and I dined on the potato-like fruit fried in butter.

The Safari Float is a popular tour with many outfits, so it wasn’t surprising to see other rafts on the river. There was a sense of camaraderie as guides shared information on wildlife they had found. We saw basilisk lizards, mango swallows and tiny long-nosed bats, resembling furry kiwi fruit with wings. A large troop of howler monkeys soon made their presence known. We watched mothers and babies frisk in tree canopies, searching for leaves and fruit. They moved quickly from branch to branch, balancing with their prehensile tails.

The river is home to caiman, crocodiles and a variety of fish including machaca, catfish and tarpon. At times, in an attempt to maneuver small rapids, Alvaro asked us to paddle backwards or stop. I had a brief flashback of some fierce whitewater I had paddled in Indonesia and quickly followed commands, whereas the nice couple with me was busy fidgeting with their cameras. I was glad I wasn’t sharing a raft with them on bigger waters.

Our two-hour journey carried us eight kilometers downstream where we picnicked in an open-air rancho. We snacked on fresh fruit and cookies under the watchful eyes of two turkey vultures. Since we had a bit of extra time, we drove to a bridge in the nearby town of Muelle to get up-close and personal with some green iguanas. There were at least fifteen large males sunning themselves in the branches of the azote caballo (horsewhip tree), one of their favorite foods. I bid goodbye to my Aventuras Arenal guide and driver after our tranquil Safari Float.

My bags were packed and I was ready to move to my new digs, Hotel Arenal Paraíso. Conveniently located on the main highway between La Fortuna and the lake, Arenal Paraíso is a full-service resort with all the amenities you’d expect. I was particularly excited about the hotel’s private thermal hot springs, a series of fourteen pools that varied in temperature and all with terrific volcano views.

The rooms were nicely spaced apart, more like small bungalows, each with an enclosed glassed-in terrace where you could hang out and enjoy the volcano. I settled into a rocking chair on my patio and watched a huge rainstorm move in. Though the rain kept me out of the hot springs, I enjoyed my comfortable room.

Although I didn’t have time to try it, Hotel Arenal Paraíso also offered its own canopy tour right on the hotel’s grounds. As I was checking in, I saw a group of cheerful tourists clad in white hard hats on its way to zip through the trees. I nipped into town to grab some dinner and supplies before crawling into bed, weary but in good spirits.

Contact Info:
Aventuras Arenal
Tel: (506) 479-9133
E-mail: info@arenaladventures.com
www.arenaladventures.com

Hotel Arenal Paraíso
Tel: (506) 460-5333
Email: info@arenalparaiso.com
www.arenalparaiso.com

Although I would love to have joined the lodge’s complimentary guided 8:30 a.m. nature walk, I was visiting the Arenal Hanging Bridges today. I wandered up to the dining room and observatory deck where birders were out in full force, binoculars and guidebooks in hand. They chattered excitedly, but always in hushed tones as birders do, about the tanagers and cinnamon woodpeckers nesting in the trees.

More a mammal and amphibian lover, I left the birders to do what they do best, and sampled some of the lodge’s fine morning buffet. I wished that I was more of a breakfast eater when I saw the platters of fresh fruit, pancakes, sausage and eggs.

In the hotel lobby I met Mauricio, the amiable general manager of the Arenal Hanging Bridges. We drove past the Arenal dam, to the private reserve set on 618 acres of primary forest. Founded by Mauricio's father, the hanging bridges were built nearly six years ago in an eco-friendly manner under the guidance of several structural engineers.

Today I was in for a treat. My guide, Danny, was a naturalist who had memorized each species’ scient