Thursday, November 30, 2006
Day 10: Floating through Mangrove Forests
Day 10: The Sierpe River’s Mangrove Forests Two other guests and I were given a tour around the mangrove swamps and wetlands of the Osa Peninsula. Along the Sierpe River, dense mangrove forests fill a large portion of the area with tangles of root masses and hidden wildlife. The Térraba – Sierpe National Wetlands protects more than 66,000 acres of wetlands in between the Térraba and Sierpe Rivers.
Our captain and guide picked us up on the shore of Drake Bay (this is how all trips requiring water transportation begin) and we headed towards the
Río Sierpe. With a view of Costa Rica’s tallest
peak, Mount Chirripó, in the background, the low clouds in the foreground hang low over valleys of the primary forests that surround so much of Osa.
The river mouth was calm, but our guide, Evaristo, told us that some days the waves can be 4-5 meters tall. We coasted into the calmer water of the wide Sierpe River where the mangrove
forests begin. We were surrounded by mountainous terrain, where the mangroves give way to enormous trees and dense upland jungles.
We followed a few boat-wide canals branching off the main river.
The mangrove’s roots seem to reach out and walk along the sandy bottom, creating a tangle of roots arching over one another. We spotted several species of birds, namely the yellow-billed cotinga, Baird’s trogon, little blue herons, osprey and a slaty-tailed trogon. We meander up river and through canals for the better part of the morning, stop for lunch along the riverbank in the shade and slowly make our way back to Jinetes. Our final lucky find of the day was a bushmaster (a venomous snake) curled in a tree branch not far above the bow of the boat.
We exited the river mouth carefully as the waves were now taller and the tide was coming in. We toured some oceanic islands where brown boobies and frigate birds nest and we then made our journey home.
Again, I returned to the Jinetes de Osa Lodge feeling refreshed and lucky to have spent such a magnificent day in such a beautiful place. Once again there was homemade bread and soup and another healthy dinner consisting of grilled fish, veggies and mashed potatoes.
A few of us ventured out to the only restaurant/bar in Drake Bay, the Jade Mar and to enjoy a few drinks before collapsing into bed.
Contact Info:
Costa Rica Adventure Divers and Jinetes de Osa
www.costaricadiving.com OR reservations@costaricadiving.com
Phone: 1-866-466-5090 from the USA
or in Costa Rica: (506) 236-5637, (506) 826-9757 or (506) 396-4405
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
Day 9: Experiencing the Heart of Corcovado National Park
I am up early, again for my trip to Sirena Ranger Station, located in the heart of
We arrived in good time (normally the trip is 1.5 hrs, but we made it in 45 minutes because the ocean was calm). After a gentle, wet landing, we put on our shoes and were ready to hike. We were greeted by a happy pair of Trogons (some of the most colorful birds of tropical
We began
our hike on the Naranjo trail and headed towards the Sirena Ranger Station. After few creek crossings and still dry feet, we arrived in Sirena. We found a sleeping sloth in a nearby cecropia tree and a white tailed hawk circled above the landing strip at the Ranger Station.
We spent the rest of our time hiking along the Las Ollas and Escondido trails. We observed several groups of the squirrel monkeys and small group of spider monkeys off in the distance.
As I
walked through the mostly primary forest, the size of the trees amazed me. So many of them are so tall that I could not see their foliage. The shorter trees engulf the trunks of the taller trees and all I was able to see are tree trunks reaching up into the sky with no apparent end. It makes identifying the trees very difficult.
Chestnut-mandibled toucans, ant shrikes and several other trogon species filled our binoculars with colorful plumages. We hiked for about 5 hours, and after stopping for a rest at the Río Sirena, we were ravenously hungry. We returned to our drop off spot by hiking along the beach and devoured our home-made bread and ham sandwiches, which Jinetes de Osa had prepared for us. Yum!
hroughout the hike, our guide was kind enough to help those of us without rubber boots across the streams and I managed to end the day with dry feet. Our unique find of the day was a very noisy Caracara high up in one of the tree tops.
We headed back to Jinetes de Osa by late afternoon - just in time for an afternoon rest and a few beers at the bar before dinner. We enjoyed another delicious, healthy meal accompanied by fresh bread.Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Day 8: The Serenity and Beauty of Drake Bay
I love waking up here. There is a creek that gurgles off to my left and the gently crashing waves in front of me offer a soothing melancholy along with birds chirping all around. The sun just peaked over the horizon and is now casting its delicate morning rays over the lush vegetation that buffers my porch from the beach front. I am sipping my coffee, breathing deeply and feel oh so relaxed.
Spiky, round, fat, skinny—the vegetation is various as are its colors. A dragon fly sits perched on the enormous leaf of a
n elephant ear plant and the palm trees rustle in the calm breeze. Scarlet macaws squawk noisily overhead as they fly by. Jinetes de Osa Lodge is a serene place. The entire staff is courteous and sincerely cares about how you are. The overall of mood of the lodge is that of comfort and ease. It’s a place most people feel at home instantly, even
if they are only here for a few days. The guests I have met have all been sincere and interesting people from all over the world and (Canada, the Arctic, France, Switzerland and the US) and that is just from less than a week of being here. I have found yet another place I feel like I can call home. I recommend Drake Bay and the Jinetes de Osa lodge to anyone looking for an un-crowded, non-touristy experience in a safe and tranquil setting. I do not recommend it for the tourist
looking for white-glove service, luxurious accommodations or five-star resort like settings. While many places here in Drake Bay are very nice and comfortable, they are all on the rustic side. Not to mention all the activities available here. Excellent diving (experienced or new divers—you can earn your certification here), Caño Island National Park, Corcovado National Park, horseback riding, snorkeling, hiking, bird and wildlife watching, sport-fishing, mangrove tours, canopy tours, night jungle hikes (with the “bug lady”—she will shed an entirely different light on the world of insects) and kayaking.

I spent the better part of the day photographing. The Aguila de Osa Inn has gardens full of many different types of plants and a nature trail for hiking. One of the other guests, Sue and I enjoyed the early and late morning sunlight and photographed for hours.
We returned in time for a late lunch (would not want to miss that) and the rest of the day was spent catching up on work and staying out of the rain.
Contact Info:
Costa Rica Adventure Divers and Jinetes de Osa
www.costaricadiving.com OR reservations@costaricadiving.com
Phone: 1-866-466-5090 from the USA
or in Costa Rica: (506) 236-5637, (506) 826-9757 or (506) 396-4405


Monday, November 27, 2006
Day 7: Granite Spheres on Caño Island
The monkeys were at it again this morning. I heard them running on the rooftop, so I immediately got out of bed to protect the cookies. I took the basket into my room and went back to bed, figuring that the monkeys would leave once the food was gone, but I overlooked the fact that there was still a small bowl of sugar. Needless to say, they did not leave as anticipated.
I had to go back out there after the sound of breaking glass startled me
awake again. They had stolen the sugar tin and a coffee mug and had dropped the mug on the floor and the tin of sugar in the bushes. I had to shoo them away and hiss at them to convince them that they could not have any thing else on the tray. About 10 minutes later, they left. Maybe they went to steal the neighboring cabin’s muffins... who knows.I will be joining a tour today with a neighboring hotel, Aguila de Osa Inn who also runs snorkeling and diving trips. We are headed to Caño Island where some of Costa Rica’s best snorkeling and diving is located, mostly because of the variety of fish and marine life found near the rocky reef. Since I have still have two dives to complete for the open water certification, and my instructor is not here, I will be snorkeling today.
I was dropped off on Caño Island for free time while the other passengers on the boat went to dive. I took the opportunity to hike the trail from the ranger station up to an archaeological site and pass some ancient Indian burial grounds.
The hike began with a steep climb up some natural style steps and then flattened out for most of the rest of the way. We passed through secondary and primary forest along our way. The island was logged a number of years ago and is now recovering, and protected.
About 1.5 miles up a beautiful jungle trail, small to medium sized granite spheres sit arranged on the forest floor. There was a traditional mortar and pestle type grinding platform and several other rocks that have obviously been napped into various traditional tools or wares.
We enjoyed a scrumptious picnic lunch at the beach on Caño Island after the divers returned from their morning dive. The afternoon was then spent snorkeling not too far offshore where sharks and large schools of fish swam below me. The water was warm and relatively clear, with no less than 25 feet of visibility. The water was actually a little turbulent for me and I began to feel sea-sick after thirty minutes so I returned to the safety of the boat. We picked up the divers who completed their second dive of the day and returned to Aguila.
Aguila de Osa offers luxurious rooms, an onsite spa, gardens and trails for enjoying and a full assortment of tours. They are located on mouth of the Aguila River where it empties into Drake Bay.
Contact Info:
Aguila de Osa Inn
E-mail: info@aguiladeosa.com
www.aguiladeosainn.com
Tel.: (506) 296-2190
Fax: (506) 232-7722
Sunday, November 26, 2006
Day 6: Sunrise with the Birds, Sunset with the Bugs

Day 6: Bird Watching and The Night Tour
Two other guests and myself meet our guide, Kenneth at 5:30 for a early-morning bird watching hike. We begin by immediately spotting a pair of blue-grey tanagers and a group of scarlet-rumped tanagers frolicking about in some hibiscus shrubs.
We spend the rest of the morning (2.5 hrs) hiking horse trails that dips into a variety of ecosystems including regenerating forest, old cow pastures and dense jungle. Our guide is knowledgeable and can identify all of the birds and is good at spotting birds with his scope.
All in all, we spot more than 30 species of birds including: a pair of red-capped manakins (which we really had to hunt for and bush-whack through dense undergrowth for a good view), golden headed tanagers, white lined tanager, yellow-legged honeycreeper, yellow crowned euphonia, Baltimore oriole, bi-colored antbird, variable seed eaters, bananaquits, fiery-billed aracaris, several flycatchers, a ringer kingfisher, rufous-breasted wren, greater antshrike and several hummingbird species.
The rest of the sunny day passes calmly at the Jinetes de Osa Lodge. I have a little free time to explore the beach and catch up on some work.
I have a night tour scheduled with “the bug lady” tonight and I have heard wonderful things about her tour. I need to save my energy.
Fresh bread at dinner (again… I'm really getting spoiled…) and fish, fresh caught earlier today fuel me up for my night walk.
We depart around 7:30 with a small group (they don’t allow any more than 8 people). Tracie and John are our guides, and we first learn one of the tricks of the trade—how to locate frogs and other animals using their eye shine.
By holding the flashlight just right, you can see many animal’s eye shine including spiders, frogs, mammals and many others. We first learn to spot spiders. Pairs of little green sparkles all of the sudden appeared in the grass and we found countless spiders (you know the rule, you are never more than 3 feet from a spider… well.. maybe you don’t want to know… )
The trick also works for frogs and other mammals. Different animal’s eyes reflect different colors and you can often tell what animal’s eyes you are seeing just by the color of their eye shine.
Along the walk we encountered several species of frogs, a tail-less whip scorpion, a long horned beetle (which actually flew into our path) and some really interesting and very well camouflaged spiders called trap-door spiders. They literally have a door to their home consisting of a flap of moss (or earthen door in some cases) that they can open and close at will and can keep it closed with a force of 14oz by using their legs and fangs to keep it shut.
Because it lacks a stinger and is harmless, Tracie catches one of the tail-less whip scorpios and offers us the option to hold it. Several of us allow the scorpion to walk on our hands and arms. As the scorpion is passed from one person to another, its long antennae probe each new person's skin as it moves creepily up our arms.
Tracie and John are able to find many of the trap door spider’s homes one day when a herd of army ants passed through and all the trap doors were temporarily open to allow the ants to pass through. When army ants come through, you just let them pass through and don’t fight them. They clean as they go and don’t usually stay long, so it’s better to let them pass than to try to kill or re-route them --- they bite and attack in large numbers if angered.
Our final treat is a chunk-headed snake. It is a mildly venomous snake, though not prone to striking. Tracy gently handles the snake for our viewing pleasure. Snakes are so sneaky, I always feel lucky to see one.
The "Bug Lady’s" tours have received rave reviews from reputable sources like the Lonely Planet, Frommer’s and Foder’s travel guides. Let me tell, you that she has no problem living up to her reputation. Her tour is one of the most informative and personal tours I have been on. You will learn things about insects that will intrigue you and make you realize just how wild and wonderful that crazy insect world is. I even thought the giant cockroach was cute! The tour is not recommended for bug or snake phobics and reservations are suggested. (see contact information below)
We all returned ready for bed, after such an interesting walk. I personally was excited for tomorrow’s adventures.
Contact Information:
The Night Tour: www.thenighttour.com or email to: eyeshine@racsa.co.cr
Costa Rica Tel: (506) 382-1619
Saturday, November 25, 2006
Day 5: “Monkeys Will Do Anything for Muffins”
I awake to the sound of footsteps on the roof and as I emerge from my groggy state, I realize, of course, that the sound is from monkeys. I assume they will pass quickly and try to go back to sleep, but they don’t go away, so I am curious and get out of bed.
I peek outside to find my neighbor holding the basket of muffins close to her while shooing the monkeys away. Apparently there was a muffin raid this morning.
At first we take the basket of muffins inside. The white-throated capuchin monkeys patiently linger in the surrounding shrubbery, picking their fur and watching us. Some hang upside down from the roof while others swing from pendulant hibiscus branches and perform other acrobatic movements. Great photo opportunities….
As other guests awake, we don’t want to hoard the muffins, so we return them to the table. But when we do, the monkeys try to approach, showing their teeth to try to frighten us away. We shoo them away and eventually, are forced to return the muffins to the safety of the kitchen where the monkeys can not get to them.
Unfortunately, before any of us got up to prevent the muffin theft, 2 muffins were robbed. One of the lucky monkeys sat in the tree next to our porch, eating the muffin much like you or I would. Mmmmm—hope he liked it because it will be the last muffin he gets if I have anything to do about it.

I am scheduled for a canopy tour today. Several years ago, president Jimmy Carter went on this tour.
It is one of the Original Canopy Tours and is owned by Jinetes de Osa. It departs from the lodge at 8:30am. Wearing comfortable shoes and remembering my hair tie (clips don’t work becasue you have to wear a helmet)… I’m off….
The canopy tour was fun. I joined a lively group of 6 others, plus our 4-5 guides. The
platforms are heartily built and don’t wobble. All necessary safety precautions were carefully met and we all had a really great time. Having guides who, though they may do the same tour day in and day out, still enjoy each and every tour as if it were unique, make the canopy tour fun. There were 9 platforms and 6 cables. A good time was had by all. I returned to Jinetes de Osa in time for lunch (spaghetti with home made tomato sauce) and then I left again to go photograph frogs. One of my guide friends has access to a private farm and he knows where to find the frogs. We hiked through mostly primary rainforest and
then up stream, through the stream to the frog’s hideouts.Here we found the green-jeans frog and the Gulfo Dulce Dart Frog—the most poisonous frog in all of Costa Rica. The frogs seemed to always disappear whenever I tried to take a picture. So, I spent my time photographing the waterfalls. We return just before dark and share a few beers at the bar.
A quick cold shower (there is hot water, I just prefer cold water when it's hot) and I'm ready for dinner, which I completely devour. Chicken breast, broccoli and a baked potato. I left nothing on my plate. With all that walking I must have
worked up an appetite. It's Saturday night, the only night that the local disco is really hopping, but I'm exhausted, and I have to get up really early tomorrow. I'll try to make it there next weekend, if I'm still here.

Contact Info:
Costa Rica Adventure Divers and Jinetes de Osa
www.costaricadiving.com OR reservations@costaricadiving.com
Phone: 1-866-466-5090 from the USA
or in Costa Rica: (506) 236-5637, (506) 826-9757 or (506) 396-4405
Friday, November 24, 2006
Day 4: My First Open Water Dives
With most of my day free, I enjoy a lazy morning, reading my “Tropical Plants of Costa Rica” and sipping coffee. Mid-morning, I decide to venture to Playa Cocalito, a small beach about 15 minutes from Jinetes de Osa. Before I leave, I am given some rough directions to follow the trail, turn left and go down hill. Needless to say, I actually arrived without any wrong turns. The beach was deserted and protected by rocky outcroppings on each end. I enjoyed some tranquil beach time and returned to Jinetes de Osa in time for lunch.
I know that I have to do my open water diving skills today and I am a bit nervous. There is one skill in particular that I am really nervous about; completely removing your mask while under water and putting it back on and clearing all the water out of it. I am a nose breather and have hard time breathing through the regulator and not also pulling water through m
y nose. So… we will see.
When the boat returns from picking up the guests who toured
The boat arrives around
Greg said on the count of 3, so I had no time to think. 1, 2, 3… and back I go with a splash and WOW, how fun! I love it.
We lowered ourselves just below the surface and I get that feeling of “oh no… I cant do this” and I quicky re- surface. Greg reminds me that we are 2 feet under water and that, Yes, I can do it. So down we go again and I take 3 relaxed breaths this time and I am fine. Ahhh.
So down, down, down we go. We swim around for a bit and see a school of fish and not much else, its just a sandy bottom. We are here only to practice my skills, the reefs and fish are further out at
When we return to shore and I had a big smile on my face. I feel like I'm over the learning hump of diving. I am more comfortable now and looking forward to completing my skills to earn my open water certification.
I reward myself with a sweet piña colada and sit down to dinner. Fresh, home made bread was served on cutting boards with a deliciously peppered garbanzo bean soup as a appetizer. The mood of the Jinetes de Osa is as if we were at someone’s house in their living room having a family dinner, except that there is wait staff to serve you and meet your every need. Red snapper accompanied by rice and veggies healthily feeds us all.
Tonight were are also treated to an after dinner movie; The Imax's “Blue Planet” movie is projected onto a large screen (a white sheet) and we enjoyed our after dinner coffee while learning about the ecology of our wonderful, beautiful planet.
Thursday, November 23, 2006
Day 3: Thanksgiving in the Jungle
It’s early now, 5am. I awake to the sound of a rufus-breasted wren singing outside my window, and once I open my eyes and see daylight, well…. I’m up. My cabin faces east, and the view over Drake Bay as the sun rises is calming.
I will be joining 4 other guests of Jinetes de Osa today for a hike in Corcovado National Park today at the San Pedrillo Station. We will meet early (6am) for breakfast and then be on our way, by boat, to Corcovado by 6:30.
We board the boat at the shore of Drake Bay and begin our journey. Along the way we observed some spotted dolphins and their young. Then, About 10 minutes later, as I was looking shoreward I see what appears to be a waterspout, and sure enough, 5 seconds later the guide pointed out the whale.
We were lucky this morning to see a humpback whale lingering in the area. Most whales have already left the area by now, but sometimes if they have their young late, they tend to stay in the Bay known as Paradise Bay (its real name is San Josecito Bay). We observe the whale crest the surface several times and see her clear her blow hole several times, with sprays of water reaching 10 feet or more in the air.
Such an eventful morning already… with perfect weather. It’s warm and sunny, but not too humid. The still present morning fog hovers above the shore as the sun glistens on the surface. It is an absolutely stellar morning.
Upon arrival at the San Pedrillo ranger station, we embark on the Río Pargo trail which winds along the beach to the Pargo River. Our luck of the day continues as we encounter white throated capuchin monkeys, howler monkeys, scarlet macaws, spider monkeys, Jesus Christ lizards and several small song birds along the trail.
We return to the station for our gourmet lunch that was waiting for us in a cooler we brought along: homemade bread with either freshly cooked chicken, peanut butter and jelly or ham and cheese, an assortment of fresh fruit, hearts of palm salad, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies.
Our after lunch hike is a short, but slightly more technical one to a waterfall. Along the way, we found one of the most poisonous snakes in Costa Rica, the fer-de-lance, on the side of the trail . It appeared to be sleeping, so we quietly walked past it and left it to sleep in peace.
After briefly stopping to view the waterfall (which you have to wade upstream and around a bend to see), we backtrack and stop for a swim in a swimming hole wh
ere the water is safe for swimming. We returned to the ranger station and waited for our boat to take us back to Jinetes. While waiting under the shade of the beach almond trees, I sip fresh coconut water from a pipa I picked.
Our guide Javier is very enthusiastic and knowledgeable. He sets a cheerful mood for the day with his enthusiasm for the forest and all its inhabitants and we all thoroughly enjoy our guided walk. Also having the day’s schedule all pre-organized and planned through Jinetes makes it even better. We do not have to do anything but enjoy our day.
We returned to Jinetes de Osa by late afternoon and the smell of the cooking turkey dinner that awaits us was wafting through the air…. We were expecting about 40 guests for dinner, a mix of Americans, foreigners and locals. Many have never experienced a traditional Thanksgiving dinner.
Green beans, turkey, mashed potatoes—the works, complete with pumpkin and apple pies. All were delicious, and reminiscent of home. Yum!

Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Day 2: Traveling to Drake Bay
A buffet style breakfast, including made to order eggs, was served in the P
ura Vida restaurant at the Cristal Ballena. It sure looked good, but coffee was all I could manage to eat so early in the morning. I was anxious to get on the road as I still had new territory ahead of me and a boat to catch by 11am in a town called Sierpe.I arrived in Sierpe about one and a half hours later, after making a few stops along the way to enjoy the scenery. Everyone says that this stretch of road south of Dominical to Panama is the best in Costa Rica….I think I’ll have to agree.
Having skipped breakfast at the Cristal Ballena, I was ready for a typical Costa Rica breakfast. And, I had some time to kill before the boat departed for Drake Bay. The Restaurant Las Vegas serves a reasonably priced breakfast and is along the Sierpe River.
Around 11:30 the boat was ready to leave with all its passengers (and luggage—I think I packed too much). Off we went down the Sierpe River for about an hour, spotting a common pootoo (related to the owls), American crocodiles and several black vultures before reaching the river mouth where it empties into the Pacific Ocean.
There are huge boulders on either side of the river mouth, where in between, the river and ocean waters meet, sometimes tranquilly, sometimes turbulently. Today, we were lucky. It was smooth sailing.
We then traveled south for about 15 minutes before arriving on the shores of Drake Bay where staff from my lodge, Jinetes de Osa, was waiting to help carry my luggage to the lodge.
Nestled on the shore of Drake Bay, the Jinetes de Osa is a small lodge with 9 rooms including 4 presidential suites. The ocean is literally 20 ft from my doorstep, where the waves of the protected Bay gently crash with a soothing melancholy.
Upon arrival, fresh, tender and perfectly seasoned fish was served for lunch along with salad, patacones (fried green plantains) and rice. The afternoon was unplanned so I took some time to check out my new, temporary home and explore the area.
I explored part of a trail that meanders from the small town of Drake along the shore, passing right in front of Jinetes and by a few other lodges and c
rosses the Agujitas River via suspension bridge. I am told that this trail eventually goes all the way to Corcovado National Park, about a 6 hour hike from here. Rustic foot bridges and stepping stones assist in passing through the wet areas. Frogs chirp from the wet grasslands until they hear footsteps, then all falls quiet. I tried to stand completely still and wait for them to resume chirping in hopes of catching a glimpse of them, but no luck.Friendly conversation passed the rest of the afternoon away until dinner as I sat and chatted with folks at the lodge’s bar. Many of th
e guests have come to dive at Caño Island—one of Costa Rica’s best snorkeling and diving locations due to its plethora of fish and other marine life. They share their secrets as to how to not get sea sick and tell me of their day’s adventures. Sounds like I have some great diving experiences ahead of me. I'm excited!Contact Info:
Costa Rica Adventure Divers and Jinetes de Osa
www.costaricadiving.com
reservations@costaricadiving.com
Phone: 1-866-466-5090 or
in Costa Rica: (506) 236-5637, (506) 826-9757 or (506) 396-4405

Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Day 1: High Mountain Passes and Landslides
I left early this morning so that I could arrive in the Dominical area before late afternoon. Although it is nearing the end of the rainy season here, afternoon clouds still move in and it often rains in the afternoons, so, I thought it best to get an early start.By the time I actually got on the road after running several last minute errands, it was 10 am.
I followed Route 2 out of San José towards Cartago and then south towards San Isidro. In between these 2 towns is a long, long climb. The road rises to 10,800’ at the Cerro de la Muerte, as it crosses the Talamanca Mountain range before it begins to slowly descend into San Isidro.
The road is in relatively good condition and is well marked. I passed through a cloud forest where tree ferns, abundant vines and other vegetation graced the road side. It was actually cold in the higher elevations and I had to close my windows, but by the time I descended into San Isidro, it warmed up and there were blue skies.
In San Isidro, I turned west toward Dominical (the turn is well marked) and went over another mountain pass and through more cloud forest, where the blue skies disappeared and clouds and mist dominated. Finally, after a short delay from an earlier landslide, I arrived in Dominical.
Dominical is a small surf town with dirt roads and quaint shops and plenty of cheap places to stay, including several camping facilities. I think there are more surf shops in the small town of Dominical than in San José all together. Obviously, the surfing must be good.
I stopped at the most local-looking restaurant I could find, Coco’s Bar and Restaurant, where I enjoyed a delicious casado with grilled chicken and a fresh mango drink for 2600¢, about $5. Usually, when not in a tourist town, casados are no more than 1500¢, but hey, what can you do? Good food is worth the money.
The paved road leading south from Dominical is one of the best roads in all of Costa Rica, and I made excellent time arriving at the Hotel Cristal Ballena, located on a knoll overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean. One of the ranger stations for the Ballena Marine National Park is directly across the road from the entrance to the Cristal Ballena. I had heard many nice things about this hotel and was excited to finally be able to visit.

All of their rooms are tastefully decorated, very comfortable and perfectly clean. Most offer sweeping views of the ocean and all have their own private balcony. They offer 15 different tours. To name a few: guided hikes in Corcovado, mangrove tours in kayaks, horseback riding to waterfalls and dolphin/whale watching excursions.
After settling into my room and taking a short nap, I awake to find that we have lost electricity. It really started to pour right after I arrived (thank goodness I left this morning!) and apparently a fallen tree has taken out some of the electric lines.
They are working right now to repair the lines, as I type (on limited battery power).
The office staff is working very hard to make sure everyone has a flash light, plenty of candles, matches and an umbrella.
It is really pouring. My dinner reservations are for 7pm. Looks like we will all be dining by candle light. How cozy! For some reason I love it when the power goes out.
Despite the electrical problems, dinner went well. While at the bar, I made some new friends from Switzerland —Walter and Crazy George (that’s how he introduced himself). We enjoyed a few drinks at the bar by candle light and then the three of us enjoyed a candlelit dinner at the hotel’s restaurant. A refreshingly cool breeze blew through the windows as the absolute darkness surrounding us offered both comfort and mystery as to what exactly might out there.
Contact Info:
Hotel Cristal Ballena
www.cristal-ballena.com
email: info@cristal-ballena.com
in Costa Rica: (506) 786-5354
Fax: (506) 786-5355

Monday, November 20, 2006
Scuba Class in Santa Ana
I have a trip planned to visit Drake Bay, a small town on the Osa Peninsula of Costa Rica, where I will earn my scuba certification and be able to dive at one of Costa Rica’s best diving spots, Caño Island.
Costa Rica Adventure Divers offers a wide chioce of PADI certification courses from the introductory experience, Discover Scuba to Divemaster. Guests who have already completed the pool portion of their diving class, may complete their open water dives and earn their certificate while in Drake Bay. This is what I am working towards - Open Water Diver Certification.
Because Costa Rica Adventure Divers also own
a very quaint B&B with a pool in Santa Ana, I was able to complete the pool portion of the class at Casa Alegre. Anyone can complete their entire Open Water Diver Certification in this manner through Costa Rica Adventure Divers. Casa Alegre is located in Santa Ana, known to be one of the safest cities in the San José area. Casa Alegre, offers 8 rooms, all with private baths, king size beds, breakfast, cable TV and free wireless internet. It is close enough to San José to be convenient, yet far enough away to escape the noise and traffic of the city. They offer a variety of tours ranging from trips to Poás Volcano to white water rafting.
The Casa Alegre can accommodate you as part of a package deal with their Drake Bay facility, Jinetes de Osa, or separately. The hospitality and cleanliness of the B&B will not disappoint you. The Casa Alegre is a clean and charming hotel, with all the conveniences of home. After spending several days reading the PADI “Lets Go Diving” book, doing all the chapter reviews and watching the video, I was ready to put my new knowledge to the test… time to get in the pool.
My instructor and part owner of Costa Rica Adventure Divers, Greg was great. He had lots of patience and allowed me the time needed to just be comfortable sitting in shallow water, breathing through the regulator. My first breath was refreshing. Air easily flows from the regulator (AKA the second stage). There was a brief instant when I s
at on the bottom of the pool and I got nervous and thought “I cant do this, it feels too weird”, but with Greg’s kind re-assurance and patience, after just a few more minutes, it suddenly clicked and I relaxed was able to breath comfortably. We spent several hours in the pool practicing skills and getting to know the equipment associated with diving and how to set it up.
At the end of the day, I was proud. I accomplished many new skills and I left knowing that, Yes! I can dive.

Having an instructor whom you trust and feel comfortable with is the most important thing when it comes to learning to dive. You need to not feel rushed. I recommend Greg and Costa Rica Adventure Divers to anyone who wants to learn to dive.

After a hot shower and a cup of coffee, I went home to finish packing for my trip to Drake Bay. I leave early tomorrow morning.
Contact Info:
Hotel Casa Alegre
www.hotelcasaalegre.com
email: reservations@hotelcasaalegre.com
Phone: 506-235-5485 (dial 011 from US first)
Costa Rica Adventure Divers and Jinetes de Osa
www.costaricadiving.com
reservations@costaricadiving.com
Phone: 1-866-466-5090 or
in Costa Rica: (506) 236-5637, (506) 826-9757 or (506) 396-4405
Sunday, November 19, 2006
The Osa Peninsula and Drake Bay: An Introduction
Much of the southern Pacific coastline of Costa Rica is part of the Osa Peninsula, where lowland tropical rainforests merge with mountainous terrain. This patchwork of greenery houses some of Costa Rica's most endangered plant and animal species and is considered one of the most biologically intense places on the planet.
There is little development in the area. The few small towns that do exist on the Osa Peninsula are reached by boat, plane or precarious roads that are often impassible during the wet season, and rough, at best, during the dry.
The remoteness and the pure, simple beauty of the Osa Peninsula make it a place worth visiting. It is not for the unadventurous traveler as even the nicest hotels, are on the rustic side.
I spent 2 weeks exploring the Drake Bay area and enjoying all its activities, from scuba diving at Caño Island and canopy
tours to hiking in some of Costa Rica’s most majestic and ancient forests in Corcovado National Park. Costa Rica Divers and their charming, quaint lodge, Jinetes de Osa in Drake Bay provided hospitality for my stay. They provided me with friendly, professional service at every turn and delicious, healthy meals which included home-made bread and desserts everyday. They have definitely earned my seal of approval.
Enjoy my adventures....Pura Vida!


