Costa Rica Vacation Journals

Early morning greets me with a warm sunrise and still cool breeze. I head to the beach for a quiet walk and to attempt capture the mornings tranquility on camera. There is no way a photo can impress upon you how beautiful a morning it is. The sun begins to warm the sand to a delightful temperature and the morning breeze is gentle and cool. Palm trees and beach almonds buffer the beach from the road while a kingfisher silently waits on a limb above a fresh water puddle. That is until I walk by and scare him off unintentionally. He flies away with a squeaky squawk.

Back at Kaya’s Place, it feels like Sunday morning as everyone drinks their coffee and gathers sporadically for morning chats.

Knowing my time at the beach is limited, I need to catch some rays. The black sand is really hot by now, but because I have my beach chair, I can sit with my feet in the water and my butt up off the sand.

There are several wild horses living in the Puerto Viejo area that meander along the shore grazing on vegetation. I saw one of these the other day walking unaccompanied down the street in Puerto Viejo, and I wondered from where he had escaped. Now I know. They are wild and protected. It is against the law to capture them. They roam freely and have their own agenda.

I take some time to do some writing before I head back to San José. I really do not want to leave, but the wireless internet from Puerto Viejo does not reach Kaya’s Place and I need to get back to work.

The drive home is slow. There is a lot of traffic from Limon to Guapiles, and the Braulio Carrillo road is rainy and foggy. It is a much more difficult drive at night. Either way, I arrive safely home and ready for bed.

Kaya’s Place: (506) 750-0690, (506) 750-0713 (fax) and on line at:
http://www.kayasplace.com or JT@kayasplace.com

It’s a shame I'm not more of a sleeper—it would have been so nice to pass the cloudy morning in the comfort of my king size bed in an air conditioned, dark room.

But, I’m not, and the clouds are moving out so I’m up and out the door.

La Diosa has a short trial that leads from their pool area over a coastal wetland to the rocky shore along the coast. Several benches are creatively placed and the draw of the ocean breeze demands that I sit for a while. The ocean really churns out in front of the hotel from all the underlying coral reef. Definitely not a swimming beach, but incredibly beautiful for sitting and thinking.

La Diosa is a B&B, serving breakfast to their guests everyday from 8-10am. Made to order eggs and European bread, jam, fresh fruit and coffee are part of the package. There is a relaxing pool and a small open-air restaurant where local tour information and books can be found. La Diosa can book all types of Cahuita tours from horseback riding to snorkeling.

One of the most notable aspects of the La Diosa is the abundance of freshwater spigots scattered throughout the property to wash your feet before entering your room, both to keep your room clean and to save the drains. Another is the fresh European bread they serve with their breakfasts.

The Cahuita Butterfly Garden is on my morning agenda. The big dog that lives there greets me and I ring the bell to call the attention of the employee. They have 15 species of butterfly living in the netted garden. Educational posters line the entry corridor and serve as your only guide through the garden. A variety of flowering plants attract the butterflies to the paths, while others flutter away towards the ceiling. If seeing butterflies up close is your goal, the Cahuita Butterfly Garden is worth a short visit.


Down in Playa Cocles, there are several amazing local surfers who surf the beach break. They ride the powerful, fast waves with precision, while providing entertainment for the beach goers on shore or who dare not pass the last breaker. Lifeguards marked the beach this morning with red flags, and they will alert and call into shore anyone who tries to go out too far.

On my way to Manzanillo to snap a few pictures, I picked up a local woman returning home to Manzanillo from work. Apparently, with the schools on vacation, buses do not travel between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo with as much frequency as during the school year and it’s a long way to walk. We have a candid discussion about the horrible condition of the roads and where the money went that the community had to fix them. The drive passes more quickly with conversation. Plus, I love to practice my Spanish.

I hurry back to Kaya’s Place to meet my friend Sarah for an afternoon beach walk with her dogs. The black sand beach in front of the hotel is one of the blackest beaches I have ever seen. It’s so black it appears purple sometimes. Pictures do not capture its true color.

There are storm clouds on the horizon, a light mist is falling and a pleasing ocean breeze blows. We walk for a while, enjoying to coolness that clouds and mist have to offer, then return to the hotel just before the downpour begins.

Again, I find myself at one of Puerto Viejo’s best locations. Not only because the Kaya’s Place is beachfront and there is a bar and restaurant and a comfy lounging atmosphere, but also because of the people. Good people tend to congregate here, both guests and hotel employees. JT and Sarah have fostered a real treasure.

I always hear stories of people who came to stay for a few days and ended up staying for months. I can see how this can happen. Why on earth would you want to leave such a beautiful, warm place. I’m already thinking of how I can stay longer too.

Anyway, I pass the early evening at the bar chatting with guests and friends.
In an effort to expand the restaurant’s facilities, some folks are experimenting with recipes they might like to put on the new menu. Quite possibly the BEST coconut shrimp I have ever had are served and voraciously eaten by about 6 of us at the bar. Needless to say, I vote for the coconut, macadamia shrimp. Can I have the recipe?

I head out to dinner, (the shrimp were an appetizer) to Café Viejo where I hear they have great food. Well, great food or not, the service sucked. The servers were downright rude from the first moment I walked in the door and when I ordered my meal or asked for more water, it was like I was inconveniencing my waitress. I even had to get up and collect my own change on the way out the door; no thank you or anything.

Plus, the pizza was just OK. I ordered an Italian sausage and mushroom pizza and there were about 5 little pieces of sausage to be found on the entire pizza. At least they used fresh mushrooms. There are too many good restaurants in Puerto Viejo with friendly service that Café Viejo just moved to the back of my list.

The evening passes quietly and jovially back at Kaya’s Place. It's quiet there and it's just a few of us enjlying the rainy, cool evening while the sound of the waves softly echo in the background. NICE!

Hotel La Diosa: (506) 755-0055, (506) 755-0321 (fax) or on the web at: reservation@hotelladiosa.net or www.hotelladiosa.net

Cahuita Butterfly Garden: located on the main road just before turning left to Cahuita.

Kaya’s Place: (506) 750-0690, (506) 750-0713 fax and on line at http://www.kayasplace.com or JT@kayasplace.com

There are several recent landslides scooped up out of the road along the Braulio Carrillo highway that leads to Limon and other eastern destinations. The rivers are full and running—the rainy season has begun. Mud, tracked by car tires for more than 300 feet, covers a long stretch of road resulting from a large landslide just a few days ago.

The Rio Sucio is more diluted today and not as brown as during the drier months, but either way, it’s worth the time to park after crossing the River and walk back over the bridge. Two rivers, of two very different colors, converge here. The Rio Sucio is brown and the other is bluegreen.

After passing Limon, I stop for gas at the closest and final gas station (or bomba) to Puerto Viejo and Cahuita. There are no gas stations, I learned from a previous trip, in Puerto Viejo or Cahuita, so I fill up my tank at the “Servicentro Penishurt”, about 9km north of Cahuita.

The roads have deteriorated since I passed through here only a few weeks ago. There are more potholes and some have grown in girth and deepness. I try to avoid as many as I can. The road is especially pot holey after you pass the multi-colored painted palm trees on the left.

Lately, it has been raining heavily in the mornings, but the afternoons have been humid and sunny and I time my arrival just right for the heat of the day. Lidia’s Café serves a decent casado (plate of the day consisting of rice, beans, salad and your choice of fish or meat) for 1800¢ (less than $4) and they have a variety of fresh tropical fruit drinks available blended with milk or water. I choose my favorite- guanabana.

I have a few business acquaintances to meet this afternoon in Puerto Viejo before I head back to Cahuita, where my hotel for the night is located. I briefly stop to check out the scorching hot, black sand beach across from Kaya’s Place. The sand is so hot you need shoes, but the sun feels oh so good.

On the way back to Cahuita, I stop to check out Puerto Vargas—the southern entrance to Cahuita National Park where all cars must pay an admission fee. Often un-crowded, the beaches here are pristine and beautiful. There are many beachfront campsites available with picnic tables, running water and pit latrines. The road ends shortly before the actual Cahuita Point, but a foot trail continues to the Point all the way Kelly Creek, the entrance station in Cahuita. There are easily accessed coral reefs at the Point, but caution should be used to keep from walking on the reef as you enter the water. Find gaps in the rocks until it is deep enough to float on your belly and continue outward from there. There are usually white-throated capuchin monkeys congregated under the Noni trees at Cahuita Point. They are overly acclimated to humans and appear friendly, but don’t touch or feed them. They can and will bite. Great photo opportunities though.

My hotel for the night is the new La Diosa, located along Playa Grande, just a little north of Cahuita and its Playa Negra (reached by following road that parallels the beach from Cahuita to Tuba Creek, where it dead ends). La Diosa has 10 brightly painted rooms/cabinas sleeping anywhere from 1 to 6 or more people. All rooms have comfy beds, air condition and some even have a jacuzzi tubs.

The nicely kept gardens gently border the rocky shore that pounds with the ocean’s surf. What was once living coral reef is now a rocky shore exposed by an earthquake 10+ years ago. Now, new, revitalized coral lives beneath the surface, causing waves to churn in unpredictable patterns offshore.

Dinner in Cahuita on a Sunday night is a mellow experience. I love that many bars in the south Caribbean play soca music. Soca, originally known as solka, is a creative mix of Calypso and Indian music. It is a groovn’ kind of music that jives with the South Caribbean’s natural rhythm.





Hotel La Diosa: (506) 755-0055, (506) 755-0321 (fax) or on the web at: reservation@hotelladiosa.net or www.hotelladiosa.net

A Quick Solo Trip to Puerto Viejo

It was difficult to drag ourselves out of bed this morning. Not only were the beds comfortable, the room dark and cool, but we were beat from the night before! We checked out of Hotel Verde Mar without ever trying out their beautiful and large pool – if only there had been more time.

We stopped for brunch in Quepos on the way out of town, meeting one of our new friends there. Though the food was nothing to write home about, the company was. As we piled in the car for the drive back to Rayna’s apartment in Heredia, I was a bit sad, but, as always excited for the next leg of the trip.

The whole way home we reminisced about all the fun times we had had, the wonderful people we had met and what good luck we had to land this gig! Though I’m leaving for the States tomorrow, there is already talk of my returning next summer – Ohhh the possibilities…

Hotel Verde Mar: (506) 777-2122, www.verdemar.com

We got another great night of sleep here at Hotel Verde Mar. Since the hotel is right near Manuel Antonio, with all its little shops and restaurants, Rayna and I decided to take advantage of it. We walked to The Marlin for a light breakfast and then headed back to our hotel and then the beach.

How nice to be able to walk to the beach from our hotel. We stopped at the front desk for extra beach towels, and noticed that they also provide their guests with boogie boards if they want! Further, there is a small library guests can borrow from.

A short walk past the pool and over a raised walkway led us to the beach. Already bright, sunny and warm, we found a good spot to plant ourselves and all our gear for the day, and took the first swim. Feeling brave and full of energy, Rayna headed out on her surf board first, while I watched (well, actually, I fell asleep in the sand).

After she had had a go at it, I decided I would give it a whirl. Well, what seemed like hours later (really only about forty minutes) I came back in bruised, battered and burnt! That was enough “surfing” for one day, as far as I was concerned (and if you want to be technical, there was no surfing involved).

The morning gave way to the afternoon without our notice and soon it was late in the day. We reluctantly packed up and headed to the hotel to shower and get ready for our second spa treatment!

Spa Shangri-la was just as lovely as when we left it Friday, except today there were no clouds in the sky. Rayna and I switched it up this afternoon, so she got a pedicure and I got a full-body relaxation message. Yeah, it was just that, complete utter and total relaxation from the very first touch of the therapist’s magic hands to the last. Lasting about a full hour, I melted into the table within the first minute and did not resurface till the end, and let me tell you, I was a changed woman afterwards! I cannot believe I went this far in life without a professional full-body massage. Life will never be the same again!!

For our last dinner, we went back to Bamboo Jam because we remembered that they had a menu that looked delicious. It was. I had their Thai chicken dish which was, I think, the best dinner I had all week! What is more, just as we were finishing, around nine, a salsa band began to play, and man! could they play. So much energy, so much fun, and it was not long before Rayna was up and dancing. It was a wonderful start to the evening.

Convinced that we really had to do it up our last night (my next to last night in Costa Rica) we decided to go back to Arco Iris in Quepos with our friends. We had such a wonderful time, and since it was a Tuesday, it was not overly crowded, so we had plenty of space to dance, and dance, and dance!

Hotel Verde Mar: (506) 777-2122, www.verdemar.com

Spa Shangri-la: (506) 777-4795

Clearly the Babaloo Inn brings out the laziness in Rayna and I. Not quite sure what it is about the place that is so conducive to sleeping in late, but it is. (It could be the beds, the lovely thick draperies that block the sunlight from streaming in, or the air conditioner which consistently kept our room at a comfortable temperature).

When we finally rose, it was because we were both hungry. We asked for a brunch recommendation at the front desk and they sent us to Café Milagro. Oh man, what a lovely little café/coffee shop. Their menu complete with fresh bagels brought a smile to our faces instantly. A toasted sesame bagel with cream cheese and fresh tomatoes and a large latte made for the most wonderful start to the day.

Having a previous reservation we headed to Fincas Naturales, a private wildlife refuge in Manuel Antonio. First of all, I need to stress the fact that this place should be on everyone’s list of places to visit while in the area. Equipped with a reptile lagoon (which is scheduled to be finished soon), a butterfly garden and an amphibian aquatic garden, as well as many trails and night walks, this place is fun and educational!

Our guide was very personable and informative, and clearly enjoys her work. She first led us through their butterfly garden, where a large blue-morpho landed on my foot. Next. we walked through the reptile lagoon and saw some crocs and turtles. Finally, we headed through the water garden, where many species of tree frogs live, many of which come out at night. On our way back to the office we saw about a dozen white-faced monkeys playing in the trees, one even had a baby with her – how cute!

We thanked our guide and decided to stop at a few shops off the main strip and then checked into the Hotel Verde Mar. Just a short walk to the beach, this is the closest water-front beach to Manuel Antonio National Park! Verde Mar is a relatively large hotel with a small hotel feel. Twenty two rooms adorn the property, most with two double beds, kitchenettes, private bathrooms, air conditioning and fans. What a find. In addition, guests can expect to be greeted by a friendly staff, just as we were earlier today.

After settling into our new place and relaxing for a bit, we were on the road again. Excitedly, we headed to Quepos to pick up our suits from Ummara! They are wonderful, I am so glad I got both suits and can’t wait to wear them tomorrow. The rest of the night was relatively quiet. Rayna and I got dinner at a little “soda” (diner) in Quepos and decided to call it an early night since tomorrow is our last full day in the area.

The Babaloo Inn: (506) 777-3459, www.babalooinn.com

Fincas Naturales: (506) 777-0850, www.butterflygardens.co.cr

Hotel Verde Mar:(506) 777-2122,www.verdemar.com

This was the most relaxing and lazy day I have had in Costa Rica so far. After sleeping in late and leisurely getting ready for the day, we headed to the beach. (It was also easy to sleep really late because the beds at The Babaloo are so comfortable!)

We stopped at The Karahe (pronounced caraje) for brunch before planting ourselves in the sand. A big shrimp and rice plate hit the spot. After brunch and a big cup of coffee to wash it all down, we walked down the beach toward Quepos and located a lovely little spot to nestle into the white sand.

The day passed as many do when you are at the beach; a little reading, a little napping, many trips to the water and just as many to re-apply sun block. The water was beautiful and the waves were small. However, there was a strong undertow I didn’t feel like fighting, so I stayed close to shore.

Late afternoon brought with it a thunder storm which still has not passed (it is about 10:00 pm now). With too little energy to brave the storm tonight, we have stayed in and have decided to call it an early night.

The Babaloo Inn: (506) 777-3459, www.babalooinn.com

We got up early this morning so we could get to Manuel Antonio National Park to see some animals stirring before the day warmed up too much. Before hopping in the car for the short drive to the Park, Rayna and I got breakfast at El Byblos. A typical breakfast of eggs, gallo pinto (rice and beans) and coffee has become my favorite way to start the day, especially when I know I am going hiking.

Just a five minute car ride from our hotel, Rayna found parking for the Park. A small admittance fee got us in and within ten minutes of walking on the main path we were lucky enough to spot a few white-faced capuchins, and one even had a baby in tow – absolutely adorable!

There are a few different paths through the park which offer lovely views of the ocean and surrounding small islands. Since it had rained the night before, the path Rayna and I chose was a bit slippery, to say the least. I only had one close call which would have landed me face first in the thick mud, but luckily I caught myself. No doubt, many of the purple and orange land crabs were amused by the fact that I continually slipped. The slippery hike was well worth the effort, however, because we came upon a beautiful little beach to catch some rays.

We had a light lunch of ceviche at El Byblos before heading to Spa Shangri-La. With every step we took up to the spa (it sits nestled into the side of a hill overlooking the Pacific) it became apparent that this is the place to go if you want to pamper yourself. Offering a variety of different messages, body wraps, hot tub experiences, as well as manicures and pedicures, this spa will surely be as amazing an experience for you as it was for me. For example, couples can choose to have their message in the same or separate rooms. Further, what is most unique about Spa Shangri-la is the fact that they only use fresh fruits and herbs for their body wraps, as well as the fact that patrons are able to experience the 180 degree views.

This afternoon I got a pedicure while Rayna got a full-body, deep tissue massage. Sitting in a large leather rocking chair overlooking the ocean, I was able to completely relax and enjoy the rain storm which began to blow in just as I sat down. I felt like I was one with the storm, in a sense. Since the air conditioner broke down earlier in the day, I truly got a rare treat. With the windows open I was able to feel the breeze, smell the rain and I even watch some hummingbirds bathing themselves in the light rain outside the window.

Dinnertime found us at the Byblos once again, wherein we decided to try their pizza. Splitting a large pie with fresh tomatoes and garlic hit the spot and the atmosphere in the restaurant was festive - after all, it is Friday! Near the end of dinner we inquired after the hot spots in the area. Our waitress told us that Bamboo Jam had live music and would be a good place to check out. We took her advice and didn’t look back.

With pop American hits emanating from the establishment as we approached, Bamboo Jam was swinging when we arrived. Making friends fast, Rayna and I soon made plans to go dancing in Quepos at a discothèque called Arco Iris. After about two hours at Bamboo Jam, we followed our new friends to the night spot, and were, in the end, very glad we did.


El Byblos Resort & Casino: (506) 777-0411, www.bybloshotelcostarica.com

Spa Shangri-La: (506) 777-4795

Wanting only fruit for breakfast, Rayna and I were both thrilled that the restaurant at El Byblos could provide us with just that. Not having much time to drag our feet this morning, the light breakfast hit the spot and we were ready to meet our shuttle at 8:30 to go on our catamaran tour.

Picking us up right at the Byblos, Planet Dolphin delivered us to the pier in Quepos where we got our first glimpse of the Tom Cat, the boat that we would share with about forty others for the next few hours. Including snorkeling, lunch, an open bar, sailing, and dolphin spotting, this was an all-inclusive experience. With fun and, often, festive tunes coming from the speakers, we gawked at the beautiful scenery and wildlife while the Tom Cat motored down the coastline from Capos to Manuel Antonio National Park. We did, indeed spot dolphins, go snorkeling and swim with beautiful tropical fish, and we enjoyed a wonderful lunch before sailing back to the pier.

Lunch was a real treat. Consisting of fish kabobs, pasta salad, and tropical fruit, everything was really delicious and it was all freshly prepared and cooked on the boat. The perch I had near the back of the boat was perfect for sunning and enjoying the last few minutes of my time on the catamaran. All in all, I had a wonderful day on the Tom Cat and would highly recommend it to others.

Soon after returning to shore, we checked into The Babaloo Inn. What a cozy little inn! Recently taken over by new owners, our room is new, very clean and super comfortable. Also, it was immediately clear to both Rayna and I that the owners have a keen sense of looking after the little details that can make such a difference. For instance, there are plenty of towels for both the bathroom as well as the pool (which is beautiful and refreshing), a mini-bar, ice, cups, air conditioning, and cable TV. They also provide a detailed booklet for guests to peruse which lists much pertinent information about the inn and the area. It seems, too, that all the rooms have their own private decks with big leather rocking chairs- so relaxing.

Since I had been lying in the sun all afternoon, a dip in the pool seemed to be the next logical step. Set at the perfect temperature to cool off after a long day in the sun, I immediately fell in love with the small pool. We didn’t linger too long though, because we were eager to go out for a sunset happy hour.

We found El Avion, a restaurant /bar built around a grounded airplane, which promised and delivered an amazing view. With a plate of nachos and a couple cocktails, we were well on our way to being perfectly relaxed, though the sky did not cooperate and deliver the sunset we had our hearts set on, there is no doubt that on a clear afternoon, this is a pretty great spot.

Later, Rayna and I headed to Coconuts down by the beach in Manuel Antonio. We had heard that it was a fun bar and a great place to go dancing. Further, there was the flicker of a rumor that Matthew McConaughey had been there a couple days before partying till the wee hours. Now, I have no idea if this rumor is true or not, but that did not impede my hoping that he might appear tonight. Well, as the night wore on, no MM showed up, however we did have a fascinating creature (in its own right) to ogle!

At first, I thought there was a fight in the street because it seemed that all at once everyone was looking out from the bar to the street below. Well, it was something far more captivating, even to the male patrons, than a fight. A sloth had, somehow, got itself on a power line. It is rare to see a sloth, it is more rare to see one moving, it is still more rare to see one out in the open clearly visible on a power line directly under a street light. This was truly a remarkable sight to behold.

Creeping along at the slow and steady pace which is characteristic of sloths, this unfortunate creature was undoubtedly nervous enough and not used to being out in the light, let alone the object of so much flash photography. It all seemed to catch-up to the slow-moving mammal at once, because it just curled up in a ball and took a nap under the street light, where it remained till the streets were quiet again.

During all the commotion, our friends from the night before located us and again convinced us to go dancing. After I gave up all hope of a MM spotting, we hit a couple hot spots before returning to Arco Iris to top off the night with more dancing!

Planet Dolphin: (507) 777-1647, www.planetdolphin.com

El Byblos Resort & Casino: (506) 777-0411, www.bybloshotelcostarica.com

The Babaloo Inn: (506) 777-3459, www.babalooinn.com

Rayna and I had a relaxing drive to Manuel Antonio earlier today. About three and a half hours after getting into our car, we found ourselves at the beach again. We love the beach.

Rayna had heard there was a bathing suit shop in Quepos (just twenty minutes from Manuel Antonio) that makes custom bikinis, so we stopped in before checking into our hotel. With about twenty different top and bottom styles to mix and match and about fifty different fabrics to choose from, Ummará is an amazing shop. We had so much fun trying on various styles and in the end I got both a two piece and a one piece and am so excited to pick them up in just three days!

Back in the car, we drove the last twenty minutes to the Manuel Antonio area and found El Byblos Resort & Casino. What a beautiful place to stay. Our room offers us a lovely view of the pacific, as well as cable TV, air conditioning, a private bath, a mini refrigerator, a large closet and lock box. Further, the property itself is beautiful. There are multiple cabanas, a large pool, a casino, a late-night restaurant/bar as well as the main restaurant called the Jungle Bistro & Pizzeria.

After perusing the hotel, Rayna and I hopped back in the car and tooled around Manuel Antonio. The first glimpse I got of the beach was love at first sight. The warm misty air the blue water, the small breaking waves and the islands just off the coast all made for the perfect picture of tropical paradise and all I could say was, “wow!”

We ate dinner tonight at the Byblos’ Jungle Bistro & Pizzeria. Insalada caprice and their filet minion with a mushroom wine sauce capped off the day nicely. Next to the pool, the restaurant was very comfortable and the staff hospitable. After the long drive, we’re calling it an early evening.


El Byblos Resort & Casino: (506) 777-0411, www.bybloshotelcostarica.com