Thursday, June 22, 2006

Ciao Monteverde~

We took our time packing up the car this morning. I had had such a wonderful stay at the Monteverde Lodge and Gardens that it was difficult to motivate myself. We had some eggs and coffee before checking out and saying goodbye to the wait staff which had been so hospitable.

As we drove down the bumpy mountain road leaving Santa Elena, we could see the Gulf of Nicoya shimmering in the distance. Rayna got a few last pictures of the valley in the sun and it was then that we decided we would need to go to the beach for a few hours before returning to Heredia. About an hour and a half later, we arrived at Playa Donana, where we swam and soaked up the sun for a few hours before returning to the city.

What an end to a great vacation!

Monteverde Lodge and Gardens: http://www.costaricaexpeditions.com/lodging/monteverde/index.php

Gaudy Leaf Frogs and White-throated Capuchins~

I slept in this morning for the first time since getting to Monteverde – it was really nice! When it was time to get up, I did so, willingly, because I was excited to get to the Ranario (The Frog Pond). A light breakfast in the dining room of the Monteverde Lodge and Gardens was the perfect start to the day.

Many of the frogs in Costa Rica are beautiful, but I think those with the most brilliant colors were a real treat to see up close. The Ranario has over twenty species of frogs and other amphibians, which our guide happily told us all about. I think the prettiest ones were the blue-jeans frogs (bright red body with blue legs), the granular glass frogs (green with really thin, see-through skin), and, of course, the famous gaudy leaf frogs (green upper body with blue sides and reddish orange toes).

Since it was our last full-day in Monteverde, after a light lunch at the Lodge, Rayna and I spent some time driving around. We took in more of the sights, did a little shopping and took some final pictures. During our travels, we decided to book another night walk, because we had such a good time last night.


Arriving at the Ecological Sanctuary around 5:30 put us there at the perfect time to see the white-throated capuchins (white faced monkeys) which apparently pass by the office nightly! There were about five of them in total that we got to watch for about fifteen minutes. They are so cute, and seem to delight in watching people as much as we do them.

Our guide, Orlando, was very informative and friendly, and even indulged our fantasy of possibly seeing a puma. When we were well away from the office and in the dark, he told us that they have been spotted on the property, but not for a number for years. Again, I felt like a little kid with my flashlight. I was convinced I was going to be the one to spot some new species of something, or get really close to a sleeping something else – all to no avail!

We were, however, fortunate enough tonight to see a pair of toucans sleeping in a tree, as well as a few other sleeping birds and a big sloth moving slowly high above us. Orland pointed out much flora and many insects, but we were out of luck as far as larger creatures were concerned. It was still a really good time. There is something sort of magical about being out in the breezy night with a flashlight. Rayna’s camera has a night vision as well as a video feature. The two short videos she shot remind me of The Blair Witch Project, except I imagine us looking eagerly for pumas!

Well, after puma hunting for two hours, I was famished! We got back to the Monteverde Lodge and got ready for the last dinner in Monteverde. I had to get the same mixed salad from the night before, because it was wonderful. For an entrée tonight, I ordered the beef tenderloin with balsamic sauce, potato puree and sautéed vegetables. It practically melted in my mouth – delicious! Although I had planned to test the Jacuzzi before bed, I'm too tired!


Monteverde Lodge and Gardens: http://www.costaricaexpeditions.com/lodging/monteverde/index.php

Ranario: 506-645-6320, email: ranariomv@racsa.co.cr

Ecological Sanctuary: 506-645-5869, www.santuarioecologico.com

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

The Hunt for Birds and Spiders~

We had a wonderful breakfast this morning at Vista Verde Lodge. The big warm meal was just what I needed to sustain me through the next two hours of walking around in the rain! Yes, just as we got to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve for a bird watching tour, it began to come down. Luckily, we had rain gear and a wonderful guide, Johnny Perez, who showed us a lot of the flora, however, bird watching is tricky in the rain.

Since it was raining about eighty percent of the time, we did not see too many birds, though we did hear a lot of them including a Quetzal (the national bird of Guatemala). Once when the rain slowed down, Johnny was able to find us a big three-waddled bellbird. A handsome bird named for the three long black pieces of skin that hang off its face. Though we saw few birds, our guide pointed out a number of insects and plants. In all, it was a fun, though wet, walk through the rainforest.

When we were done, it was time to go back and check out of our room at the Vista Verde Lodge. After a warm shower and a friendly farewell to our host and hostess, we went in search of our next lodge.

Located near the center of Santa Elena,
Monteverde Lodge and Gardens is a full-service lodge which has been described by others as “elegantly rustic.” I agree. The service was impeccable from the moment we checked in. With gardens, walking paths, a large beautiful dining room, a Jacuzzi, and large comfortable rooms equipped with coffee maker, sitting area, double beds and private bathrooms, I was happy we had saved this stay for the last.

After checking in and taking a short nap, Rayna and I went out. El Marquez is a great seafood restaurant in Santa Elena. Their ceviche, shrimp wanton soup, and shrimp fried rice were delicious.

Around five we went to the Monteverde Wildlife Refuge for a night walk. These are popular throughout the area, because so many creatures become active at dusk and remain so throughout the night. With many trails, the refuge was a great place for a walk via flashlight and our guide knew right where all the good stuff was! We saw a couple sloths still sleeping, as well as a tarantula, a huge leaf-cutter ant colony, many fig trees (with the crazy trunks), and even a green pit viper!

In addition to the noteworthy sightings, the walk itself was really fun. It was a beautiful night with a light breeze that blew all the mosquitoes away. Our guide told us we should obviously use our flashlights to see, but we were also encouraged to look for any creatures stirring. So, of course, everyone (including myself) thinks they are going to be the one to make an incredible find that the guide missed. More than once I was left behind because I was sure I saw some large furry animal high up in the canopy. I never did, but it was great fun looking.

After a couple hours, we got back to the lodge. Dinner was spectacular. I had a mixed salad and for an entrée, pork loin stuffed with raisins, peanuts, and onion, served with peanut puree and brandy sauce. It was a delightful combination of flavors which was complemented by the service and atmosphere.





Vista Verde Lodge: 506-380-1517, www.info-monteverde.com
(Though the weather never cleared for us, the view of Arenal Volcano from the Lodge is amazing.)

Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve: 506-645-5390, www.reservasantaelena.org

Monteverde Wildlife Refuge: 506-645-5761 or hotelcipreses@yahoo.es

Monteverde Lodge and Gardens: http://www.costaricaexpeditions.com/lodging/monteverde/index.php

Monday, June 19, 2006

Sky Adventures and Bats!


When we woke up the sun was out so we were excited to get to Costa Rica Sky Adventures to go on their sky walk and sky trek (canopy tour) in the nice weather. Just a fifteen minute drive back toward Santa Elena got us there.

Fortunately, Rayna and I got a great nature guide for our sky walk. Brian proved amazingly knowledgeable and patient with all of our questions. By far, a guide makes the walk through the rainforest canopy more fulfilling. There were a ton of things we would have walked right passed that he stopped to point out.

One of the best finds Brian enlightened us about were two bird nests right along the path! At about knee height, he pointed out two different nests of the black-faced solitaire. He explained that they nest there, because they know people will keep other predators away from their nests.

We also learned that the tree known as the strangler fig is a hemi-epiphyte, which means it begins life as an epiphyte (a plant that lives on another without stealing nutrients) and later in life gets its nutrients from the soil. The fig starts as a seed on a tree and its roots (in the form of hanging vines) start to reach for the soil. When the vine reaches the ground it begins to grow, eventually surrounding and killing its host tree, which leaves the fig hollow. So, while it is never a parasite, taking nutrients from the host, in the end the host dies. It is an interesting story and the result is a huge twisted tree trunk which looks like it would be great for climbing because there are so many nooks and crannies!

Our canopy walk with Brian was very interesting and seemed to be over in a flash. During the walk, we crossed six suspension bridges with the longest being over 900 feet long! Just as we were finishing the sky walk, there was a sky trek, or canopy tour, getting ready to leave. So, we harnessed up to join them.

With just a small group, we headed out for the first zip line. The weather was beautiful so we were again lucky enough to enjoy some amazing views. With really fast lines, their longest and highest lines were far longer and higher than any other I have been on. At approximately 2310 feet long and 480 feet high, I was a bit frightened, while simultaneously having a great time!

Before leaving Costa Rica Sky Adventures, we got a chance to sit and relax in the hummingbird garden. Since the weather was still nice, the garden was abuzz with activity.

After a quick bite in Santa Elena, Rayna and I went to check out The Bat Jungle. Recently opened to the public, this is an interesting and fun museum for all ages. With interactive aspects to their exhibits, kids would love this place. Both Rayna and I learned a good deal about bats, including the invaluable part they play in pollinating flora as well as spreading seeds in a given area. We were also shocked to learn to what extent many species are in danger world-wide due to humans. Beyond beautiful and informative displays and an auditorium featuring documentaries on bats, The Bat Jungle has an area where you can view live bats (though they will probably be sleeping when you get there)!

After another long day (of having fun), we headed back to Vista Verde Lodge for dinner and a relaxing evening before bed. The large, exposed-wood, dining room was welcoming. Though the fog had not lifted to give us a view of Arenal Volcano, the smell of warm fresh bread brought a smile across our faces. We had a lovely dinner of squash soup, fresh whole grain bread, chicken and sautéed vegetables. With full bellies, we headed back to our room to get a good night’s sleep.

Vista Verde Lodge: 506-380-1517, www.info-monteverde.com

Costa Rica Sky Adventures: 506-645-5238, www.skytrek.com

The Bat Jungle: 506-645-6566, www.rwcarlson.googlepages.com soon to be found at www.paseodestella.googlepages.com


Sunday, June 18, 2006

Coffee Tour and then…Snakes~


he warm sun woke us up early and without an early tour we had a little time to enjoy the patio. We headed into town around nine, got a light breakfast at a little soda and then we were off to a tour close to my heart and taste buds.


The Don Juan Coffee Tour was fun and interesting (and they give everyone a free hat)! Okay, yes, I might be a bit biased given that I really like – all right - love coffee, but I am confident that even non-coffee junkies would find this journey from seedling to mug interesting.

Just a short van ride took us to the eight year old Don Juan plantation. Upon arrival we were immediately greeted by our guide, Marcos. A native of Monteverde, Marcos is knowledgeable not only about the history of coffee, but of Costa Rica as well. The tour lasted about an hour and a half, during which time Rayna and I were able to see the whole process of making coffee. With a rich history in Costa Rica, the first coffee plantation was established in San Jose in 1816. The coffee grown on the Don Juan plantation is harvested by hand, after which time it is dried, aged and then de-parched before it is roasted. Needless to say it is a long process, which is (in my opinion) well worth every cent spent on a cup.



After a cup of coffee with Marcos, the van took us back to town. With some free time on our hands, Rayna and I went to Bird Watcher’s Paradise to take in some sun on the patio. However, we were not the only ones there. The hummingbirds love the purple salvia bushes out in front of the cabin.

The afternoon found us driving through town headed to our new lodge that boasts a commanding view of Arenal Volcano. On the way, however, the Serpentario caught our eye (ok, caught Rayna’s eye – I am not a big fan of snakes). It is quite a large facility, with 40 species of snakes, three species of frogs, two species of tarantulas as well as other reptiles. Little did we know the roommate drama that was going to unfold before our eyes as we began the tour.

Picture it…I 'm trying to speed the tour along, so I keep looking ahead pretending to be really interested in the next slithering, venomous creature. Well, during one of my not-so-subtle attempts to move things along, I noticed a snake biting the neck of another. Now, I don't know much about snakes (though our guide was doing his best to inform me) but this just did not seem right. To make a long story short, Rayna, myself and the entire staff stood watching as one Central American Coral Snake ate another. Yes, one completely ate the other. From start to finish the victim disappeared into its former roommate’s body within forty minutes while being meticulously documented by all those toting cameras. Apparently the snakes had been cohabitating for over a year without mishap – today was another story.

After the dramatic stint at the Serpentario, we decided to stop for dinner before venturing on to our new lodge (which is about a half hour drive from town). Tramonti Pizzeria & Restaurant looked inviting from the road. It was a good choice - pleasing atmosphere, wonderful menu, great service and we both enjoyed our dinners. Their insalada caprese and fresh pesto tossed with spaghetti was delicious.

We just arrived at Vista Verde Lodge and the thick fog is obstructing our view of Arenal Volcano. However, we are scheduled to stay here for two nights, so we are hoping it will clear up!

Bird Watcher’s Paradise: 506-645-5641, www.birdwatchersparadise.info/

Don Juan Coffee Tour: 506-645-7100, www.donjuancoffeetour.com

Vista Verde Lodge: 506-380-1517, www.info-monteverde.com


Serpentario: 506-645-6002, www.snaketour.com

A Treetop Walk, Canopy Tour and Bio-Art Exhibition ~


We woke up to a clear morning and were able appreciate the view from Hotel Don Taco’s restaurant while we had breakfast. It was an early morning today because the van from Selvatura Park was scheduled to pick us up around 8.

As luck would have it, the sky grew increasingly cloudy during the twenty minute van ride to the Park. However, poor weather is not something that necessarily impedes fun at this place. With a canopy tour, a treetop walk, a hummingbird garden, a bio-art exhibition, as well as a reptile and amphibian exhibition there is plenty of indoor and outdoor activities. Also, the Park provides rain gear for those on the canopy tour, if necessary.

Since it was only misting, we got harnessed up for the canopy tour first, hoping to finish before the rain picked up. There must have been at least fifty other people with the same idea, but the large number was no problem for the Selvatura staff. They had plenty of guides to handle the group, with one always receiving people at the platforms and another sending them off. There were about 12 lines that took us whizzing through the canopy with the longest stretching approximately 1800 ft long and the highest at 240 ft. It was spectacular!

Talk about scenery, the best way to see the rainforest is via mini suspension bridge! The treetop walk at the Park winds through the cloud forest for about a mile and a half, crossing eight bridges. The paths are well-kept and the bridges are remarkably stable considering how long and high some of them are. Every bridge we came to seemed to provide a better view than the one before it. Being at “canopy height” we were able to see a variety of epiphytes (a type of plant that grows on another and depends on it for mechanical support, not nutrients) and tons of tree ferns – our favorite!

Near the end of the treetop walk, Rayna and I stumbled upon what Selvatura calls their Bio-Art Exhibit. The exhibit is amazing not only for the number of butterflies, beetles, as well as numerous other insects that are housed there, but also for the way they are creatively arranged. Years of collection by entomologist Dr. Richard Whitten made this exhibit possible and it should not be missed – it is truly phenomenal. In addition to the staggering numbers and varieties of insects, there was also a great deal of information offered. For instance, I was particularly drawn to the section which highlighted the rashes, infections and viruses one can catch from insects living in tropical locations like Costa Rica. (I admit I was hyper-sensitive to any and all insects the rest of the day.)

By this point, the rain was really coming down, but we still went to check out the hummingbird garden before leaving. Unlike us, the birds were unfettered in their pursuit of the sugar water from the many feeders in the garden. We did not stay long because we were getting chilly and the shuttle back to Santa Elena was about to head out. We had previously made reservations at a new place called Bird Watcher’s Paradise for tonight.


A little out of town, we found the lovely new cabin in the middle of a field. With a stone patio, a full kitchen, bath, two queen beds and a single bed we were both pleasantly surprised at what charming place we had found. There are no other houses, let alone cabins, in sight and what we found to be even more spectacular than the seclusion, the cabin and the idyllic surroundings, is the sky at night.

As the sun set, Rayna and I soon realized what a stargazer’s paradise this place is! Since it was such a clear night and Rayna got some fabulous pictures of the stars from the patio. There was a cool breeze that kept the bugs away, making the patio the perfect place to listen to the house geckos and tree frogs chirping.


Bird Watcher’s Paradise: 506-645-5641, www.birdwatchersparadise.info/


Selvatura Park: 506-645-5929, www.selvatura.com



Friday, June 16, 2006

Lobster in the Cloud Forest~




The drive from Heredia to Monteverde took about three and a half hours this morning. The last hour was over a road as dangerous as it is beautiful. Driving right along the edge of the mountain allowed
Rayna and I to appreciate phenomenal views, however the lack of guardrails is nerve-wracking.

When we finally reached Monteverde (about 4500 ft) it was raining hard and there was little visibility. Since we had previously made a reservation at Hotel Don Taco, we headed straight there. Offering standard rooms as well as private cabanas, this hotel is nestled into the hillside and when the weather is clear boasts a view of the Gulf of
Nicoya. Luckily we got a cabana, with two full beds, a porch, TV and private bath. Although there was no view today, given the weather, the comfortable and dry room was all we needed.

When the weather broke, we decided to take advantage of the fact that the hotel is in walking distance to the center of town. Santa Elena (the whole area is often referred to simply as Monteverde) is a small town which has many shops, tourism offices, restaurants and countless hotels, inns and lodges. It is a charming town to stroll through but soon enough our stomachs were begging for attention.

Rayna had heard that Hotel Heliconia had a wonderful restaurant. Well, her informant was right on the mark. The cuisine and service is outstanding. I could not pass up one of their specials - a whole lobster with jumbo shrimp served over linguini in a white cream sauce. Simply delicious. What really added to the experience of dining at the Heliconia, was the fact that our meals were prepared in front of us. Everything from the Caesar salad dressing to their special banana crème desert provided entertainment as well as pleasure to our palates.

After dinner, we felt the itch to go dancing. We hit Bar Amigos in the middle of town which was bustling with activity. A live band played salsa and meringue dances while couples tried their best to impress all the on-lookers. I do not know about anyone else, but Rayna and I were impressed and after a couple drinks we too were ready to give it a whirl. What a fun first night!

Hotel Don Taco: 506-645-5263, www.hoteldontaco.com

Hotel Heliconia: 506-645-5109, www.hotelheliconia.com

Sunday, June 11, 2006

Catchin’ some rays in Manzanillo



After a great couple of days at Playa Chiquita Lodge, it was time to pack up and head go back to Heredia. However, we could not go back without some time devoted to the sun, the white sand and the salty blue water.

Just thirty minutes south of Puerto Viejo a sign designates the limits of the village of Manzanillo - a small town which was populated today with families picnicking under the palm trees.
Maxi’s restaurant/bar seems to be the focal point of the town so we got breakfast there before finding a spot on the sand. After some scrambled eggs and coffee, we did find that great, relatively unpopulated stretch of beach and happily planted ourselves there for the better part of the day. It was wonderful, relaxing and beautiful.


The drive back to Heredia was without mishap. We remembered the high points from the trip and decided that Monteverde was next on our list. So, in a few days we will be headed to the cloud forest – I can’t wait!

Playa Chiquita Lodge: 750-0408,
www.playachiquitalodge.com

Saturday, June 10, 2006

Canopy Tour and Dancing at Johnny’s~

We were up, showered and ready to go early this morning for our canopy tour. Noticing the gas was low on the way into town, Rayna inquired at a small market about where we could find the nearest gas station. The woman behind the desk just said no. (At least that was all I understood.) Basically, the gist of the short conversation was there are no gas stations in Puerto Viejo, or Cahuita for that matter. In fact, we had to giggle when we learned that locals buy their gas from someone’s private house across the street from the café, Bread and Chocolate! Well, when in Rome...

A few minutes later we pulled up to the “gas station” (mind you there was no sign to indicate any sort of flammable liquids were sold on the premises). The only sign of life, at least potentially, was a pair of feet sticking out of the doorway to the house. The owner of said feet must have heard the car because a head peeped out to check on us as the feet simultaneously retracted into the dark doorway. The “attendant” emerged a minute later, shirtless, and proceeded to button his shorts while approaching our car. It was all I could do not to laugh out loud. Being that it was Saturday morning, I could not shake the image of him stumbling home in the wee hours of the previous night and only making it to the doorway. The situation remained comical to Rayna and I as he carried two, one gallon jugs of gas to the car and poured them in. However, our giggling ceased as soon as we learned that he charges roughly four dollars more per gallon than the nearest gas station (which is well north of Cahuita)!

With that adventure behind us, we were ready to start the day! Terra Venturas is a tour company in Puerto Viejo which offers a variety of excursions. Everything from dolphin tours, to white water rafting, to snorkeling in Cahuita can be arranged through their office. Luckily what sounded most fun to me was their canopy tour – which we were scheduled for!

There were about seven women on the tour, including us. Rayna and a couple of the other women had been on a canopy tour before, but it was the first time for the rest of us. A twenty minute van ride took us to the site where they begin the tour. Thank goodness for four wheel drive because the road was extremely steep and littered with pot holes.

Once we got to the site and saw the first cable that we would be hooked to, some of us (including me) were a bit leery. Once we were all in our harnesses, we got a little instruction session on the proper body position and how to slow ourselves down – then we were off. Right from the start I had a fabulous time. Flying (well you could pretend you were flying) through the canopy, high above the forest floor was amazing. You get an incredible view of the flora from that level, though we did not see many creatures (I am sure the screaming had something to do with it). Even through there were about twenty cables strung throughout the forest, and a good deal of hiking in between some platforms, the whole tour seemed to be over in a wink.

Zipping through the tree tops was great and when the van dropped us off in Puerto Viejo again, Rayna and I were starved (even though they fed us fresh pineapple). Right near the beach, Hot Rocks Café made us a delicious thin-crust pizza with tomato and fresh garlic. YUM. Since it was our last afternoon in Puerto Viejo, we popped in and out of the little shops along the main street for a bit.

Without finding that perfectly flattering bikini (not surprising given that it has eluded me for a number of years already), it was back to Playa Chiquita Lodge to relax for the afternoon. The hammock on our porch was impossible to ignore, so I took a little nap before exploring the lodge. Built about fifteen years ago, the eight rooms available at Playa Chiquita Lodge are painted in a variety of bright, warm colors; all have two double beds, a private bathroom, beautiful new wooden furniture, a private porch, and are equipped with ceiling fans. As if all that were not enough, there is also a trail which leads directly to the white sand beach! This cozy, quiet, family-friendly lodge was a great choice.

All week, we had heard that the bar Johnny’s Place is the place to go out dancing. So, since it was Saturday night, we felt obliged to investigate! After a light dinner, we hit the swinging night spot around 9:30, only to find it dead. However, being the troopers that we are, we stuck it out! The throngs eventually arrived, and within an hour the dance floor was packed. Needless to say, we had a great last night in Puerto Viejo.

Playa Chiquita Lodge: 750-0408, www.playachiquitalodge.com

Terra Venturas: 750-0750, www.terraventuras.com

World Cup and Cacao Trails~

So today was the big game. The kickoff to the World Cup was the Costa Rica vs. Germany game and, of course, it was on the tip of everyone’s tongue. So that we could properly cheer on Costa Rica, Rayna and I headed to Lydia’s for breakfast, a small café serving traditional dishes. For example, I got rice and beans with scrambled eggs. With a solid meal in us, we went to look for the best place to watch the game.

We decided on Stanford’s which is a restaurant/bar that is popular with the locals. It was the place to be. Showing the game on a full screen via projector, the pride was palpable as the national anthem played and the camera scanned the Costa Rican team. Honestly, I think we had the best seats in the house. We were directly behind the most excited female spectator I’ve ever encountered, you know the type. Well, this lady was nothing short of hilarious. We never, not once, caught any of Costa Rica’s offensive moves (not that there were that many), much less the two goals they scored. Our obstacle was the woman in front of us. She would jump up and down, screaming, plastic patio chair gripped in both hands every time any slightly encouraging move was made on the field. (Yes, that means we were looking at the chair bounce up and down in front of us as she got the perfect view of the action time and again!) Needless to say, we were dependant on instant replay.

After the game, which by the way did not make her chair bounce, Rayna and I headed to the recently opened Cacao Trails, a self-described botanical park and Caribbean museum. Our personal guide Amy was one of the happiest people you could hope to meet. She led us through a maze of fascinating flora and fauna housed at the Park, accenting the tour with all the history of the area she knows. We walked through an orchid garden, a botanic garden (much of which had medicinal uses), a banana plantation, pineapple plantation, cacao plantation (yeah, what they make chocolate from), as well as a cacao museum and an indigenous museum. That is not all, we also had the chance to view their serpentarium and later we watched Amy and another guide squeeze the juice out of a stick of sugar cane and even got to sample it! As if all that were not enough, the Park also has a beautiful pool and restaurant which boasts great Costa Rican as well as traditional Caribbean dishes. Cacao Trails is an experience rich in information as well as visual and sensual stimulation; it is a place you do not want to miss!

After our tour at Cacao Trails, it was time for a shower and nap, so Rayna and I went to check into Playa Chiquita Lodge which is a bit south of Puerto Viejo. With a number of restaurants within walking distance of the lodge, Rayna and I went to Jungle Love Café for a light dinner – then it was time for bed. I have to say, I am so excited for the canopy tour we have scheduled for the morning. It sounds like a lot of fun!

Cacao Trails: 756-8186, www.cacaotrails.com


Playa Chiquita Lodge: 750-0408, www.playachiquitalodge.com

Thursday, June 8, 2006

Scuba Diving in Puerto Viejo~

With no tour scheduled early this morning, Rayna and I took advantage of the opportunity to sleep in. When we finally dragged ourselves out of our cozy beds here at Hotel Yaré we headed to Puerto Viejo to check out some of the shops before our afternoon scuba diving lesson. (Rough life, huh?!)

After walking around the heart of town we found ourselves in front of Bread and Chocolate once again. Their chocolate is fantastic! I got a big mint-chocolate brownie to munch while we leisurely typed some notes on our laptops. Luckily, I happened to have my wireless device turned on and it recognized a provider in the area - Rayna and I were psyched! The access required a security code so we went in search of the Jungle Internet Café and discovered that it was just down the street.

They have a number of computers in the café and offer wireless internet for purchase by the hour. After signing up for a few wireless hours it was time to head to Reef Runner Divers.

Just a short walk from Jungle Internet Café, Rayna and I located Reef Runner Divers which have been in business for about three years. They offer tours for experienced divers as well as what they call discovery dives for people like Rayna and myself who lack prior experience. José, our master instructor, has been diving for fifteen years and immediately put us at ease with his friendly but authoritative teaching style. After a short, but thorough, instruction session on land it was time to suit up. I have to admit I was nervous at this point. Although I’m a great swimmer and extremely comfortable in the water, I was afraid I would forget the hand signals and freak out. But I put all the gear on anyway and we headed to the beach in front of the office.

As soon as we were in water up to our waists, we lowered ourselves onto our knees to practice breathing the compressed oxygen from our tanks. A couple of times I forgot to breathe through my mouth which was not good. My heart raced and it took me a couple minutes to relax and remember to only breathe through my mouth. Once I finally did relax, however, I entered a state of complete tranquility. It is wonderful to be underwater and alone with your thoughts; I have always loved that feeling.

After practicing some safety skills in the shallow water José led us out toward the reef. Just like snorkeling, I felt like I was in a National Geographic special, and I loved every second of it. We saw a lobster, a star fish “walking” along the sandy sea floor, as well as a ton of beautiful fish and coral. It was an amazing experience that I highly recommend. I definitely see diving in my future!

Our afternoon passed peacefully. For dinner, a little Thai place, Chile Rojo, on the main street caught our eye. Their menu boasted a list of specials that enticed us to get a table. Since we were not too hungry, Rayna and I split a fantastic Thai chicken salad and for the entrée, a whole lobster served with coconut milk, yellow curry and lemon grass. It was absolutely superb, and if the description alone was not enough to persuade you, let me just say - you want to eat there! Oh, and their sangria was wonderful as well!

Back at Hotel Yaré we had a chance to explore. With twenty one rooms, this is a relatively large hotel. All equipped with fans, ample space, and large comfortable beds, many of the rooms are private cabanas and offer a full kitchenette, as well as a porch and sitting area.



Hotel Yaré: 750-0106, www.hotelyare.com

Reef Runner Divers: 750-0480, www.reefrunnerdivers.com

Jungle Internet Cafe: www.junglec.com

Wednesday, June 7, 2006

Bribri Reservation and a Sunset Ride on Playa Negra~

This morning Rayna and I had a tour scheduled in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca at 8:30, so there was no time to sleep in! After the twenty minute drive to Puerto Viejo (about 14 km) we stopped at a small café in the hopes of finding some good, albeit strong, coffee. Little did we know what an oasis we had stumbled upon!

Bread and Chocolate is located in the heart of town and the smell of fresh, French-press coffee and homemade breads beckoned us. Beyond the coffee, which I knew would be great based solely on the aroma, their fresh sesame seed bagels were delicious, especially when toasted and spread with cream cheese. YUM. The personable staff complimented the great menu and atmosphere, so we knew we would be back to sample their homemade chocolate treats.

Just a few minutes across town, Puerto Viejo Tours offers a wide arrange of excursions including trips to Gondola and Manzanillo, tropical bird watching, white water rafting, surfing lessons and canopy tours, to name but a few. Though all of their tours sounded like fun, Rayna and I were excited about their Bribrí (an indigenous tribe) Reservation tour. Our guide, Boogy-Boogy, was great and almost completely bi-lingual; however, since most of the others on the tour spoke Spanish, it was conducted almost exclusively in that language. While I don’t speak Spanish, I understood the main concepts and relied on Rayna to fill in the gaps.

The Bribrí Reservation is south of Puerto Viejo. On the twenty minute van ride we passed many a banana plantation. Once we were out of the van, we followed Boogy-Boogy across a foot bridge which could have used a few new boards. (Actually, avoiding spots where the boards had split only added to the adventure!) A little hike through the jungle led us to the house of an indigenous Bribrí family.

While we listened to the head of the family, many other members of the family did the same. No doubt it was a talk they must have heard a hundred times already and, yet, a grandmother, grandchild and three teenagers in a hammock all seemed as engrossed in the story as we were.

Our host talked a little about the history of his people and their current struggles and concerns. They are a happy, family-loving people with a strong sense of community. However, what he seemed most interested in communicating to us was how close the Bribrí live with nature. This we witnessed firsthand as chicks, kittens, puppies, adult dogs and birds all roamed the open-air living space while we sat listening. After about twenty minutes it was time to leave. We thanked our host for taking the time to talk to us and waved goodbye to the family which has, undoubtedly, seen many a tour come and go from their “living room" before.

Adventure number two on this extraordinary tour consisted of a short hike which crossed a few small rivers leading to the Volio waterfall. Along the hike, Boogy-Boogy pointed out some tiny, brilliant red tree frogs, lots of cicada carcasses, lizards, some brightly colored mushrooms and, then, we saw our destination. The beautiful waterfall nestled in the jungle produced a cool breeze. I had a great time swimming in the small pool at the base of the waterfall and following Boogy-Boogy’s detailed instructions on how to climb up into the falls so I could jump into the pool from above. We had a blast!

Once back in Puerto Viejo, Rayna and I rushed back to Cahuita for a sunset horseback ride on Playa Negra! Brigitte’s horses are beautiful, healthy, strong and FAST! If you ride, you know that feeling when your horse shifts gears into a full gallop. Well, these horses shifted with little persuasion and seemed to love the ride as much as we did. Galloping along that gorgeous beach at sunset, splashing along the water’s edge - there is no topping that for me. The sides of my mouth actually began to ache from the huge smile I was incapable of wiping off my face! It was a perfect ride.

Before checking out of Brigitte’s Place, Rayna and I had a chance to sit and talk with Swiss-born owner, Brigitte Abegglen who has been in business for over twenty years. She has two small rooms as well as a couple cabanas for rent. In addition, her restaurant serves breakfast all day. Brigitte’s main business and real interest, however, are her horses and the riding tours she offers. She raised most of her eight horses herself and thus they are rider-friendly.

We just checked into the Hotel Yaré which is on the south side of Puerto Viejo. Our little cabana is comfortable and the big beds are extending us an invitation which is impossible to refuse!


Brigitte’s Place: 755-0053, www.brigittecahuita.com
Puerto Viejo Tours: 750-0440, www.ptoviejotours.com
Hotel Yaré: 750-0106, www.hotelyare.com

Tuesday, June 6, 2006

Snorkeling in Cahuita~


Rayna and I got up early this morning for the four and a half hour drive to Cahuita from her apartment in Heredia. Daylight greeted us just as we cleared the mountainous Braulio Carrillo road and, just as I have been since my plane first touched down in San José a week ago, I was in awe of the lush green vegetation.

Upon reaching the small, relatively undeveloped coastal village of Cahuita, Rayna and I quickly located Roberto’s Tours. We were really excited about the snorkeling tour we were scheduled to go on. After picking out flippers and a mask, it was just a short walk to the beach and a small boat which took us out to the reef. The water was flat as a farm pond and the sky was bright blue as our boat motored south along the coast toward Cahuita Point (which is the southern point of Cahuita National Park). Neither Rayna nor I had ever snorkeled over a reef before; we fell in love with it right from the start!

Corals of varying color, size, texture and shape were marvelous to behold and, of course, so were all the fish! As cliché as it sounds, I felt like I was in a National Geographic special. It is difficult to believe some of the colors we saw actually exist in nature. My favorite was a small fish that was a deep neon-blue with black spots. We also saw lots of angel fish, urchins and crabs. Beside all that, we were lucky enough to spot an eel, a manta ray and even an octopus, which appeared to be dining on a large conch shell!

After exploring the reef for about two hours, we boarded the small boat again and headed for Cahuita Point. Although we did not know it before we left for the tour, Rayna and I were pleasantly surprised to learn we had the option to walk back to Cahuita through the Park. As we approached the white sandy beach at the point, we saw about seven white-faced monkeys waiting to greet us!



The walk through this park was a real treat. In many places the path is white sand and winds along the shoreline. Aside from the white-faced monkeys we also saw many different kinds of crabs, including large purple and yellow land crabs, butterflies, birds and even a basilisk lizard! Lucky for us, Rayna also spotted a sloth sitting motionless in a tree like a stuffed animal someone had left behind. I could not get over how fake it looked sitting statuesque and seemingly unaware of our presence. After walking for about an hour we stopped for a quick dip, and that is when I heard them…

I have to admit, I would have been absolutely petrified by the sound of what Rayna told me were howler monkeys had she not been there to inform me that my fear was unfounded. Their “howl” is impossible for me to describe, but I am not exaggerating when I say it made my heart race! We quickly got out of the water and headed down the path to where we could see them high above us in the trees. They were so cool to watch!

In all, our leisurely walk back to the village took about two hours, and I saw far more flora and fauna in that short amount of time than I thought I was going to see in a week! Stopping back by Roberto’s to pick up our car, Rayna and I had the chance to speak with owner, Roberto Smikla. As the current President of Cahuita National Park, and life-long resident of The Bluff (as Cahuita is known to the locals), Roberto gave us a personal, enthusiastic and abridged local history. His warm personality and friendly face will not easily be forgotten and it is abundantly clear that he cares deeply for this place his family has called home for many generations. Further, there can be no doubt about his keen interest in preserving Cahuita National Park, as not only a local, but a business owner as well. Roberto’s tour company specializes in fishing and snorkeling trips while also offering dolphin tours, transportation to Tortuguero as well as a Bribrí Reservation tour.

After communing with nature for the better part of the day, it was time to eat! It was just our luck that Roberto’s also has a beautiful restaurant with an extensive menu, so we decided to stay for a late lunch. The chef made us a meal to order which consisted of shrimp and vegetables sautéed in a garlic butter sauce served with whole grain rice, fried plantains and a salad. It was the perfect ending to our time with Roberto.

The rest of our day in Cahuita was slow and relaxing. Now that it is bedtime, Rayna and I are glad we made reservations with Brigitte’s Place because the beds are so comfortable!


Roberto’s Tours: 755-0117
Brigitte’s Place: 755-0053,
www.brigittecahuita.com

Monday, June 5, 2006

Hey, my name is Amy and I’ll be traveling around Costa Rica this summer with my friend Rayna. Originally from Belfast, Maine, I’m thrilled to have joined the costarica.com team for a few months to write the travel blog. I’m sure we will have many adventures along the way, so please check back in to read about some of the great things to see and do here in Costa Rica.

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