Wednesday, May 31, 2006
"My Daily Dose of Salt Water"
Tamarindo to San Jose:
The early morning high tide brings sporadic waves and many, many surfers. There are several surf schools in Tamarindo and many of the surfers here are beginners. I count at least 35 surfers in the water and many of them are clustered together in a small area. I really enjoy watching as people joyfully shout and wave their arms when they ride their first wave.
I'm inspired and glad I brought a surfboard with me. I receive some brief lessons and off I go. A soon as I get in the water, the waves pick up. I catch a few but fail to get to my feet. I paddle around a bit getting the feel of the board and try to sit on the
board to rest, but topple over several times. After swallowing more than my daily need of salt water, I return to shore, invigorated, and tired. Surfing is something I have always wanted to learn how to do. I think I’ll take surf lessons next chance I get. The long boards they rent you for surf lessons make it easier to stand up. After seeing so many people get out there and try, I know I can do it too.
The drive from Tamarindo to San José should take about 4.5 hours, but the main road leading out of Tamarindo, all the way to Belen is in the process of being paved and is currently in hideous shape. The road alternates between dirt with large depressions and large potholes topartially paved and full of potholes. When the road transitions from paved to gravel (about every 100-200 feet) there is a 10 to 12” steep, sloped, drop off. Just take it slow, even if you are in a rental car. Eventually, they'll pave the road.
Once we reach the Pan American Highway, the driving becomes much easier and we arrive back in San Jose in just a few hours. What a wonderful week of traveling at the beach.
Tuesday, May 30, 2006
"Tuna Steak , Shrimp Kabobs and Coconut Pie"
Tamarindo:
Our stay in Tamarindo is brief. We stayed in a hotel that offers a
partment rental, too. We chose the room without the kitchenette and sofa and opted for the less expensive room with A/C and cable TV. It was a comfortable room, nothing fancy for $55/night- a little expensive for the quality, but customary for the area.
Tamarindo has many hotels, restaurants and bars and a very well developed commercial area. The shopping here is great: lots of clothing stores, artisan shops and souvenir stores. The prices in Tamarindo are a little higher than other locations in Costa Rica, but the convenience of so many great stores so close together helps make up for that.
The roads in Tamarindo are lousy. The dirt roads are narrow and full of pot holes. With all the development, it's a shame that the roads aren't in better shape.
Surprisingly, there are not many beachside restaurants or bars. We had to search to find the Nogui restaurant, located at the end of the main road on the right side of the rotunda as you face the beach.
Here we enjoyed a sunset and the most delicious dinner; a tuna steak cooked as rare as they would serve it, a grilled shrimp kabob and coconut pie for dessert. They had numerous other pies to choose from but I love anything with coconut. Our waitress was very friendly and enthusiastic about the food. She had been working there more than 8 years and still she says “I come here to eat here on my days off”—now you know it must be good if she’s not tired of the food after all that time.
Our stay in Tamarindo is brief. We stayed in a hotel that offers a
partment rental, too. We chose the room without the kitchenette and sofa and opted for the less expensive room with A/C and cable TV. It was a comfortable room, nothing fancy for $55/night- a little expensive for the quality, but customary for the area.Tamarindo has many hotels, restaurants and bars and a very well developed commercial area. The shopping here is great: lots of clothing stores, artisan shops and souvenir stores. The prices in Tamarindo are a little higher than other locations in Costa Rica, but the convenience of so many great stores so close together helps make up for that.
The roads in Tamarindo are lousy. The dirt roads are narrow and full of pot holes. With all the development, it's a shame that the roads aren't in better shape.
Surprisingly, there are not many beachside restaurants or bars. We had to search to find the Nogui restaurant, located at the end of the main road on the right side of the rotunda as you face the beach.
Here we enjoyed a sunset and the most delicious dinner; a tuna steak cooked as rare as they would serve it, a grilled shrimp kabob and coconut pie for dessert. They had numerous other pies to choose from but I love anything with coconut. Our waitress was very friendly and enthusiastic about the food. She had been working there more than 8 years and still she says “I come here to eat here on my days off”—now you know it must be good if she’s not tired of the food after all that time.
Monday, May 29, 2006
"Buddha in the Middle of Dirt Road Ville"
Nosara to Tamarindo:I had a tour scheduled for this morning. I was supposed to go kayaking in the Nosara Biological Reserve, but my guide never showed up. This is not the norm for guided tours. Usually, tours are led by professional guides and executed in a rather timely manner. I was just unlucky today.
Instead, I use my morning to walk down the beach to the section of Ostional National Wildlife Refuge that is here at Playa Guiones. There is a public beach access, trash receptacles and the blue ecological flag hangs here too. This section of protected beach is part of 300 hectares of protected land and 800 hectares of protected ocean waters that make up the Ostional National Wildlife Refuge. Thousands and thousands of turtles come ashore annually in Ostional.
We depart from the Casa Romantica and head towards Tamarindo on the gravel/dirt road that parallels the coast. We pass the Ostional Wildlife headquarters at Playa Ostional and a few small towns.
The dirt road is in good condition but there are several (five or more) stream crossings that would not be possible if there were any more water in them. During the rainy season (May, June, August, September) these streams will likely be flooded and impassible, even with a four-wheel drive. There are a few houses along the road, but not much else. Lunchtime comes and goes before we finally arrive in San Juanillo (another small undeveloped beach town) and encounter this Zen Buddha place in the middle of dirt road Ville in rural Costa Rica. They have excellent food at a reasonable price, and it looks like it would be a happening place to be at night. Plenty of open space, lots of tables, and even a few couches.
T
here is only one turn for San Juanillo off the main road- just turn towards the ocean when the sign says San Juanillo and the restaurant is up a little way on your right. The dirt road continues to be in pretty good shape all the way to Paraíso. Once the road splits towards Tamarindo, it quickly deteriorates. I cannot believe that the roads going into one of Costa Rica’s most developed beach towns can be in
such bad shape. Pot holes, pot holes and more potholes. Casa Romantica: info@casa-romantica.net, (506) 682-0272 Nosara, Guanacaste
Sunday, May 28, 2006
"Stellar Sunset at Playa Guiones"
Nosara:
Overcast skies help keep the temperature comfortable. Café, served in insulated carafes with a buffet style breakfast, including fresh bread, eggs and fruit is available from 7:30-9:30am. Halloween crabs (orange and blue land crabs) sneak along the perimeter of the restaurant, scavenging for their next meal while keeping one eye on you. Hummingbirds visit the variety of colorful
flowering plants that surround the pool and restaurant, and iguanas scamper on the pool deck nibbling on fallen hibiscus flowers. All this wildlife already and its only breakfast time! Casa Romantica has nicely manicured gardens, a pool and scattered hammocks and sitting areas for relaxing. Each of the 10 rooms are air conditioned, immaculately clean and comfortable. Personalized service and friendly guests make this hotel feel like home. Remo and Silvia, the owners, are not planning to add any more rooms. They do not want to get so big that they cannot learn the names of their guests. Remo and Silvia want to maintain the small, family feeling of their hotel.
The Nosara area is well known for its yoga and massage institutes. There are yoga classes on the beach and several massage spas. Various types of therapies in general are found in the Nosara area.
Big waves and, therefore, surfing, are big attractions here too. The surfing is diverse, with something for everyone. It changes from day to day so if it’s too calm one day, chances are that the next, it will be head high. Beginner surfers find windows of opportunity to surf here, but swimmers are left with only the water in front of the breakers to enjoy; the undertow is strong.
Protected beaches in the Nosara area (part of the Ostional Wildlife Refuge) assure safe nesting of the Olive Ridley Sea turtle. These sea turtles arrive throughout the year large numbers known as arribadas. Their arrivals are random and vary from month to month.
A prime spot for snorkeling at low tide is just a 10-minute walk south from Casa Romantica. Other activities in the area include bird watching, horseback riding, sport fishing and kayaking. Various tours are available: kayaking (river and ocean), tours to the Tempisque River Basin and wildlife tours to the Boca River in the Nosara Biological Reserve. Golf cart and 4x4 rentals are also possible. Birding is excellent year round here, but especially great during the migration seasons (Sept- Oct and
March- April).Left with the afternoon free, we tour the Nosara area. Playa Pelada, the next beach north of Guiones, has a small commercial area. Olgas Bar/ Restaurant serves inexpensive Costa Rican style entrees with beachfront dining. (Shrimp Plate= $6 and Lobster for $9) The Blue Ecological Flag proudly flies at this beach.
A little further up the road is the Nosara Biological Reserve. Here there are trails for hiking and many species of plants have ID tags. The bird watching is awesome here; there are between 270 and 320 migrant and resident birds in this private reserve.
The actual town of Nosara is very undeveloped and spread out. There are a few stores, a gas station and an airstrip. Most of the restaurants and hotels are not in the town center like in Sámara, they are spread throughout the residential area near our hotel.
Evening on the beach is beautiful and the sunset--- wow—stellar!
As the evening settles in and the tree frogs begin to chirp, the candles and aroma of cooking garlic draw us to the dinner table (I’ve got stroganoff on my mind!) The stroganoff is rich and f
lavorful and the meat is very tender. It must have been some sort of "Swiss" stroganoff because it lacked the buttered noodles and creamy mushroom sauce I was expecting. But, nonetheless, I was pleasantly surprised.After a fulfilling dinner and the famous Café Casa Romantica dessert, the rocking chairs in front of our room are the perfect place to digest the pleasing meal.
Saturday, May 27, 2006
“Guava Fruit, Fresh off the Tree”
Sámara to Nosara:
The morning is hot and sunny, but there are clouds to the south slowly making their way in this direction (I’m thinking more rain by afternoon). The local fruit stand (Guanafruth) is already open and serving fresh pipa fria (cold fresh coconut water served with a straw from the freshly cut coconut).
There are many different activities to partake in here in Sámara. This might be one of the best places to learn to surf. Gentle waves close to shore make it appealing to ease into the water with a board. There are two surf schools here offering beginning surf lessons.
Sámara is a beginner’s surf beach. I am always amazed at the number of beginning surfers in the water. MANY people (especially lots of women) learn to surf while in Costa Rica. Surf schools are increasingly popular and most people leave with s
miling faces after feeling the satisfaction of having ridden their first wave.
There are a number of tour companies offering dolphin tours, snorkeling tours, horseback rides and sport fishing trips. Our hotel, Hotel Giada, offers all these tours too and they also rent sea kayaks. There is a massage school here and a Spanish language school is on the north end of town, right on the beach.
There are also several restaurant/bars and cabinas/hotels right on the beach. Two internet cafes enable you to keep in touch with the rest of the world and brag about how awesome Costa Rica is to your friends. Sámara is a cozy town with friendly locals and enough action to keep it interesting, but not so much that it is crowded or over-developed (yet).
We depart the comfort of Hotel Giada and head up the dirt road towards Nosara. (See driving directions) The roadside is colorful with bright pink bougainvilleas and other flowering trees. Balsa wood and teak wood trees dot the roadside. The turquoise-browed mott mott h
ides in the brush near a guava tree. We stop to pick some fresh fruits. MMMmm- fresh sweet guava- tender yellow outsides with sweet delicate pink flesh inside.
Hotel Giada: info@hotelgiada.net, (506) 656-0132 Sámara, Guanacaste
The first town along the road is Garza. The town is small with the basic amenities- a police station, mini super and a few restaurants. The beach here is beautiful, undeveloped and deserted.
Next up the road is the town of Guiones. The beach here is rocky and reefy- not for swimming. There is not much infrastructure here- pretty much a dirt road to the beach and nothing more.
The outskirts of the Nosara area begin shortly after passing Guiones. New houses and hotels are being constructed along the road. This area is developing fast but it is mostly residential. At least there are not many huge skyscraper hotels along the beachfront. Most of the development is hidden amongst the trees.
The town of Nosara is more spread out, no real town center. It is largely residential with several small quaint hotels filling in the gaps. There are surf schools and shops, yoga and massage institutes and plenty of real estate agencies. The real estate industry is booming
here. New luxury homes are being built daily.
We easily find out hotel, Casa Romantica, nestled in the forested area that surrounds Nosara. The hotel is very charming and clean. The staff greets us as if we were old friends and they are happy we have arrived.
The Casa Romantica is a small hotel, only 10 rooms. They know all their guests by name and many people return to the comfort of the Casa becaus
e they enjoyed their stay so much the first time.
Delightful gardens with hidden nooks and statues fill the grounds of Casa Romantica. There is a huge thatched roofed shelter at the pool area with hammocks. Brightly colored flora surrounds the perimeter. I feel secluded and at home.
The beach is only 200m from the door of our clean, fresh, spacious room. No houses or hotels are built on the shoreline. They are all
hidden behind the vegetated buffer. The beach here, known as Playa Guiones, (Playa Nosara is further north) is definitely a surfer’s beach. Known for its big waves and consistent surf, it has plenty of undisturbed, open coastline.
Even though the surf is rough today at high tide, the surfers come out of the woodwork to enjoy the waves that are breaking to the left and right in a variety of heights and speeds. A few boogie borders join in the fun too.
The dark clouds have passed us by to the east without rain, but they cloud the horizon thickly enough that there is no visible sunset. Only a few shimmers of pale yellow are visible through the thick clouds. Darkness moves in and the surfers come ashore one by one, until eventually all is quite again.
Casa Romantica’s restaurant is elegantly lit with candles and soft pillar lighting. They have an elaborate menu with at least seven different wine choices and five nightly entrée specials. Beef, chicken, pasta or salad, it all looks so good. Fine wine glasses and tiki torches lend a touch of elegance to the outdoor rustic atmosphere.
The guests amicably chat amongst themselves and enjoy the competently prepared food. The friendly atmosphere, set by the owners and staff of Casa Romantica, assures that all guests feel welcome and appreciated. Obviously, the staff loves working here and their happiness radiates to others. Everyone seems to smile around here.
Fresh, crisp salad with perfectly flavored, cooked chicken and plenty of lettuce is served with a light dressing. The French onion soup is hot and delicious. I can’t wait for tomorrow, I’ll have to save my appetite for the beef stroganoff and famous Casa Romantica ice cream dessert, which we are told we can not leave without trying.
Driving directions: Sámara to Nosara. Head back out the main road you traveled on to arrive in Sámara. Three to four kilometers up there is a fork in the road- go left following sign to Nosara. Just follow this dirt road (it is in good condition) and the signs to Nosara. There is one river crossing that could be impassable if there has been a lot of rain. If this is the case, you will have to go all the way back to the gas station (further up on the main road towards Nicoya) and follow signs to Nosara from there. If you are coming directly to Nosara from Nicoya, this is also your turn.
Casa Romantica: info@casa-romantica.net, (506) 682-0272 Nosara, Guanacaste
The morning is hot and sunny, but there are clouds to the south slowly making their way in this direction (I’m thinking more rain by afternoon). The local fruit stand (Guanafruth) is already open and serving fresh pipa fria (cold fresh coconut water served with a straw from the freshly cut coconut).
There are many different activities to partake in here in Sámara. This might be one of the best places to learn to surf. Gentle waves close to shore make it appealing to ease into the water with a board. There are two surf schools here offering beginning surf lessons.
Sámara is a beginner’s surf beach. I am always amazed at the number of beginning surfers in the water. MANY people (especially lots of women) learn to surf while in Costa Rica. Surf schools are increasingly popular and most people leave with s
miling faces after feeling the satisfaction of having ridden their first wave. There are a number of tour companies offering dolphin tours, snorkeling tours, horseback rides and sport fishing trips. Our hotel, Hotel Giada, offers all these tours too and they also rent sea kayaks. There is a massage school here and a Spanish language school is on the north end of town, right on the beach.
There are also several restaurant/bars and cabinas/hotels right on the beach. Two internet cafes enable you to keep in touch with the rest of the world and brag about how awesome Costa Rica is to your friends. Sámara is a cozy town with friendly locals and enough action to keep it interesting, but not so much that it is crowded or over-developed (yet).
We depart the comfort of Hotel Giada and head up the dirt road towards Nosara. (See driving directions) The roadside is colorful with bright pink bougainvilleas and other flowering trees. Balsa wood and teak wood trees dot the roadside. The turquoise-browed mott mott h
ides in the brush near a guava tree. We stop to pick some fresh fruits. MMMmm- fresh sweet guava- tender yellow outsides with sweet delicate pink flesh inside.
Hotel Giada: info@hotelgiada.net, (506) 656-0132 Sámara, Guanacaste
The first town along the road is Garza. The town is small with the basic amenities- a police station, mini super and a few restaurants. The beach here is beautiful, undeveloped and deserted.
Next up the road is the town of Guiones. The beach here is rocky and reefy- not for swimming. There is not much infrastructure here- pretty much a dirt road to the beach and nothing more.
The outskirts of the Nosara area begin shortly after passing Guiones. New houses and hotels are being constructed along the road. This area is developing fast but it is mostly residential. At least there are not many huge skyscraper hotels along the beachfront. Most of the development is hidden amongst the trees.
The town of Nosara is more spread out, no real town center. It is largely residential with several small quaint hotels filling in the gaps. There are surf schools and shops, yoga and massage institutes and plenty of real estate agencies. The real estate industry is booming
here. New luxury homes are being built daily. We easily find out hotel, Casa Romantica, nestled in the forested area that surrounds Nosara. The hotel is very charming and clean. The staff greets us as if we were old friends and they are happy we have arrived.
The Casa Romantica is a small hotel, only 10 rooms. They know all their guests by name and many people return to the comfort of the Casa becaus
e they enjoyed their stay so much the first time. Delightful gardens with hidden nooks and statues fill the grounds of Casa Romantica. There is a huge thatched roofed shelter at the pool area with hammocks. Brightly colored flora surrounds the perimeter. I feel secluded and at home.
The beach is only 200m from the door of our clean, fresh, spacious room. No houses or hotels are built on the shoreline. They are all
hidden behind the vegetated buffer. The beach here, known as Playa Guiones, (Playa Nosara is further north) is definitely a surfer’s beach. Known for its big waves and consistent surf, it has plenty of undisturbed, open coastline. Even though the surf is rough today at high tide, the surfers come out of the woodwork to enjoy the waves that are breaking to the left and right in a variety of heights and speeds. A few boogie borders join in the fun too.
The dark clouds have passed us by to the east without rain, but they cloud the horizon thickly enough that there is no visible sunset. Only a few shimmers of pale yellow are visible through the thick clouds. Darkness moves in and the surfers come ashore one by one, until eventually all is quite again.
Casa Romantica’s restaurant is elegantly lit with candles and soft pillar lighting. They have an elaborate menu with at least seven different wine choices and five nightly entrée specials. Beef, chicken, pasta or salad, it all looks so good. Fine wine glasses and tiki torches lend a touch of elegance to the outdoor rustic atmosphere.
The guests amicably chat amongst themselves and enjoy the competently prepared food. The friendly atmosphere, set by the owners and staff of Casa Romantica, assures that all guests feel welcome and appreciated. Obviously, the staff loves working here and their happiness radiates to others. Everyone seems to smile around here.
Fresh, crisp salad with perfectly flavored, cooked chicken and plenty of lettuce is served with a light dressing. The French onion soup is hot and delicious. I can’t wait for tomorrow, I’ll have to save my appetite for the beef stroganoff and famous Casa Romantica ice cream dessert, which we are told we can not leave without trying.
Driving directions: Sámara to Nosara. Head back out the main road you traveled on to arrive in Sámara. Three to four kilometers up there is a fork in the road- go left following sign to Nosara. Just follow this dirt road (it is in good condition) and the signs to Nosara. There is one river crossing that could be impassable if there has been a lot of rain. If this is the case, you will have to go all the way back to the gas station (further up on the main road towards Nicoya) and follow signs to Nosara from there. If you are coming directly to Nosara from Nicoya, this is also your turn.
Casa Romantica: info@casa-romantica.net, (506) 682-0272 Nosara, Guanacaste
Friday, May 26, 2006
“A Troop of Howler Monkeys at the Beach”
Playa Sámara
Feeling refreshed after a good nights sleep (Hotel Giada has comfortable beds), a mid morning walk on the beach is rewarded by a close encounter with a small tribe of howler monkeys. They give their location away by wildly swinging in branches, and we notice them from 100 feet away while walking on the shoreline.
We walk under the tree and find five adults and two babies. The females are eating while the males area napping in branches a little higher up. The juveniles are curious. They scamper down, glance at us and then hurry themselves back up the tree, to the safer branches. How cute!
Rain clouds are already threatening the horizon and the blue sky quickly fades. Our sunny day disappears before our eyes and we run back to the dry safety of the hotel, arriving just before it really pours.
The hotel restaurant’s pizza is good.
It appears that the rain is here to stay for a while—suits me fine. I have a headache. Days like today I’m glad we have a nice air-conditioned room with TV.
The rain passes shortly after dark. One of the only hoppin bars in town is the La Gondola. It appears small from the front, but when you walk in, you see that there is a large room in the back with dartboards, a pool table and a ping-pong table, all available for play free of charge. A mix of salsa and other dance music vibrates from the speakers in the front of the bar and encourages people to dance. This part of the bar is hoppin, the back is mellower and less crowded. Several friendly games of pool and darts pass the humid evening away nicely.
Samara:
Feeling refreshed after a good nights sleep (Hotel Giada has comfortable beds), a mid morning walk on the beach is rewarded by a close encounter with a small tribe of howler monkeys. They give their location away by wildly swinging in branches, and we notice them from 100 feet away while walking on the shoreline.
We walk under the tree and find five adults and two babies. The females are eating while the males area napping in branches a little higher up. The juveniles are curious. They scamper down, glance at us and then hurry themselves back up the tree, to the safer branches. How cute!
Rain clouds are already threatening the horizon and the blue sky quickly fades. Our sunny day disappears before our eyes and we run back to the dry safety of the hotel, arriving just before it really pours.
The hotel restaurant’s pizza is good.
It appears that the rain is here to stay for a while—suits me fine. I have a headache. Days like today I’m glad we have a nice air-conditioned room with TV.
The rain passes shortly after dark. One of the only hoppin bars in town is the La Gondola. It appears small from the front, but when you walk in, you see that there is a large room in the back with dartboards, a pool table and a ping-pong table, all available for play free of charge. A mix of salsa and other dance music vibrates from the speakers in the front of the bar and encourages people to dance. This part of the bar is hoppin, the back is mellower and less crowded. Several friendly games of pool and darts pass the humid evening away nicely.
Samara:
Thursday, May 25, 2006
Roadside Fruit: Granadillas, Avocadoes and Mangos
San José to Playa Sámara:There is almost no traffic today on Highway 1, the Pan American Highway going north towards Liberia. What luck. Some days there is bumper-to-bumper traffic and it can take 7 hours to arrive in Sámara. Today, we arrive in less than five.
Along the way, we pass under some howler monkeys crossing the road from above. Now that the rainy season has begun here, the monkeys are moving back in to the area to dine of the array of fresh, young leaves.
There are several side of the road fruit stands selling, among other things, seedless watermelons, bags of granadillas (yum!), mangoes and avocadoes, all at inexpensive prices.
A common sight in Costa Rica along the roadsides is trees with their trunks painted white from the base up to 3 or 4 feet on the trunk. The paint is a limestone-based paint and it deters the ants from invading the trees.
We arrive in Samara just before sunset, and at high tide. There are several surfers out enjoying the clean breaking waves but other wise the beach is almost deserted.
Sámara is a rather quaint town with a beautiful beach. The restaurants, bars, stores and hotels are all centrally located so you can walk to just about everything. There is a bank with an ATM, plenty of
artisan shops and tour companies offering snorkeling, horseback riding, canopy tours, fishing trips and a variety of other trips to other parts of Costa Rica. One could easily spend a short week in Sámara relaxing on the beach and participating in the variety of activities offered here.Our final destination for the day is Hotel Giada, located
on the main street as you come into Sámara. This attractive hotel is Italian style with tile floors, wrought iron railings and painted terra cotta colored concrete walls. Attractive, bright 
and clean, there are 2 pools, a jacuzzi and 10 new rooms, 25 or so in total. Each room has cable TV, private baths, AC and a phone. AND, as a bonus, room service is available until 10 pm, including cocktails,
pizza, spaghetti and salads. Driving Directions to Sámara:
HWY 1 north from San José – pass the Monteverde Store and continue north. Turn left onto Route 21, following signs to Nicoya and to the La Amistad Bridge. Then turn right onto route 18, following signs to Nicoya. Go through the city of Nicoya, stay on the main road and follow signs to Sámara.
Hotel Giada:
Monday, May 22, 2006
"Soccer Sundays inTortuguero Village"
Soccer Sundays in Tortuguero Village:
The walk from Laguna Lodge to town takes 30 minutes or so. We begin by walking t
he path that parallels the beach, but there is no ocean breeze and it is hot! After passing Mawamba Lodge, we make a break for the shore. It is a little slower going walking in the sand, but much, much cooler.
We spot a few leatherback sea turtle nests along the beach. The large somewhat circular disturbance in the sand is unmistakable. It’s getting to be that time of year again, when the green sea turtles come ashore in abundance to lay their eggs. They are already arriving off shore for the mating season that begins soon (some fishermen spotted them not far offshore just the other day).
I did not know how many people lived in the Tortuguero Village
until I was around for soccer Sunday. A lot of people come out for Sunday’s games. It is the weekly community social event.
The soccer field is situated width-wise along the beach, so from either sideline, palm trees and sand highlight the background, not to mention the always-present ocean breeze. The sidelines are shady, so there is good seating around the field. All of the teams play good soccer.
After the games, the people disappear. The afternoon passes and so does
the heat of the day. Fishermen are arriving with the evening’s meal and the sun begins to set behind the immense green backdrop of trees that shelter Tortuguero’s most interesting creatures.
Evening
on the river is delightful. The toads hum and the frogs chirp. The sun casts its last reflections of the day as it sinks below the horizon.
The house geckos scamper up walls and lurk by lights, waiting for the evening’s meal to fly by. Some guard the doorways of the rooms, helping to assure a
mosquito free night. Nights in Tortuguero are as enchanting as the days. I love it here. It is so peaceful.
The walk from Laguna Lodge to town takes 30 minutes or so. We begin by walking t
he path that parallels the beach, but there is no ocean breeze and it is hot! After passing Mawamba Lodge, we make a break for the shore. It is a little slower going walking in the sand, but much, much cooler.
We spot a few leatherback sea turtle nests along the beach. The large somewhat circular disturbance in the sand is unmistakable. It’s getting to be that time of year again, when the green sea turtles come ashore in abundance to lay their eggs. They are already arriving off shore for the mating season that begins soon (some fishermen spotted them not far offshore just the other day).I did not know how many people lived in the Tortuguero Village
until I was around for soccer Sunday. A lot of people come out for Sunday’s games. It is the weekly community social event.The soccer field is situated width-wise along the beach, so from either sideline, palm trees and sand highlight the background, not to mention the always-present ocean breeze. The sidelines are shady, so there is good seating around the field. All of the teams play good soccer.
After the games, the people disappear. The afternoon passes and so does
the heat of the day. Fishermen are arriving with the evening’s meal and the sun begins to set behind the immense green backdrop of trees that shelter Tortuguero’s most interesting creatures.Evening
on the river is delightful. The toads hum and the frogs chirp. The sun casts its last reflections of the day as it sinks below the horizon.The house geckos scamper up walls and lurk by lights, waiting for the evening’s meal to fly by. Some guard the doorways of the rooms, helping to assure a
mosquito free night. Nights in Tortuguero are as enchanting as the days. I love it here. It is so peaceful.Saturday, May 20, 2006
The Finer Moments in Life: Time in Tortuguero
I am fortunate to be able to visit Tortuguero several times a year. Most people only get to visit here once in a lifetime. Tortuguero is one of the most beautiful places in Costa Rica, of that I am certain.
Laguna Lodge, one of my favorite places to stay
, is located on the Caribbean Sea side of the Tortuguero River. The laid-back atmosphere and friendly faces always make me feel welcome. The restaurant/bar situated along the River is one of my favorite spots in Tortuguero.
Many mornings are spent sipping coffee and enjoying the cool morning breeze that blows gently off the river, as I sit in a rocking chair listening to gurgling Oropendolas and watching birds migrate from one side of the river to the other. I hear the howler monkeys most mornings too, sometimes further off in the distance than other times.
Mornings like these make for some of the finer moments in life.
Laguna’s clean and manicured grounds provide plenty of shelter
and food for birds. Seedeaters and flycatchers happily bounce from tree to tree in search of food and nest building materials. The distinctive “click, click” of the white collared manakin blends with the quiet chirp of the passing hummingbird. I have seen at least three different species of hummers this morning alone.
The pool area at Laguna is more than inviting. They recently re-designed the pool bar, where they offer a variety of fresh fruit drinks and cocktails, sits under a large thatched roof, open-sided building. Decorative tile work adorns many of the surfaces, each new project more detailed than the last. The new bar is a great example of the ornate tile-work found throughout Laguna Lodge.
The butterfly garden is adjacent to the pool. Bird watching from the cool waters of the pool, while sipping on a fresh mango daiquiri, allows the day to slip by. From the pool, I can see the feeders set out for the butterflies—stumps of wood with rotting fruit. Numerous birds and butterflies visit this area and provide hours of entertainment. Toucans and aracaris pass overhead, while the Oropendolas continue to gurgle in the treetops.
The quiet afternoon passes peacefully- another of life’s finer moments.
Laguna Lodge, one of my favorite places to stay
, is located on the Caribbean Sea side of the Tortuguero River. The laid-back atmosphere and friendly faces always make me feel welcome. The restaurant/bar situated along the River is one of my favorite spots in Tortuguero.
Many mornings are spent sipping coffee and enjoying the cool morning breeze that blows gently off the river, as I sit in a rocking chair listening to gurgling Oropendolas and watching birds migrate from one side of the river to the other. I hear the howler monkeys most mornings too, sometimes further off in the distance than other times.Mornings like these make for some of the finer moments in life.
Laguna’s clean and manicured grounds provide plenty of shelter
and food for birds. Seedeaters and flycatchers happily bounce from tree to tree in search of food and nest building materials. The distinctive “click, click” of the white collared manakin blends with the quiet chirp of the passing hummingbird. I have seen at least three different species of hummers this morning alone. 
The pool area at Laguna is more than inviting. They recently re-designed the pool bar, where they offer a variety of fresh fruit drinks and cocktails, sits under a large thatched roof, open-sided building. Decorative tile work adorns many of the surfaces, each new project more detailed than the last. The new bar is a great example of the ornate tile-work found throughout Laguna Lodge. The butterfly garden is adjacent to the pool. Bird watching from the cool waters of the pool, while sipping on a fresh mango daiquiri, allows the day to slip by. From the pool, I can see the feeders set out for the butterflies—stumps of wood with rotting fruit. Numerous birds and butterflies visit this area and provide hours of entertainment. Toucans and aracaris pass overhead, while the Oropendolas continue to gurgle in the treetops.
The quiet afternoon passes peacefully- another of life’s finer moments.
Wednesday, May 17, 2006
"Time to Go Home Already?"
Day 5: Puerto Viejo to San José
The sun shines brightly this morning without a cloud in the sky.
Kaya’s Place has a beautiful view of the ocean as you sit in the restaurant/ lodge area. Fresh coffee and the gentle morning sun glistening off the ocean start the day off right.
There are a few folks sitting out on the front deck enjoying the new
rocking chairs and the resident dogs lazily nap in the shade. The pool table calls my name for some reason this am, and as luck would have it, I WON! (somehow?) I have time to chat with JT and Sarah, the owners, and man, do they have a great thing going on here. They are involved in the local community and use local labor and materials for all their construction needs. They are also a member of the Rainforest Alliance, promoting sustainable eco-tourism.
JT and Sarah are relatively new owners of Kaya's Place and have big plans for growth. They currently offer kayaking tours, surf lessons, snorkeling and Bribri Indian Reservation tours. They
can help you coordinate tours with local guides and they rent boogie boards and snorkeling equipment. When the water is clear, you can snorkel right off the coast directly in front of Kaya’s Place. There are a variety of rooms here, rates range from $10-$80 per night, depending on season and number of people. Kaya’s Place is well know for repeat guests and for folks who come to stay just a few nights and end up staying for weeks, or longer. Friendly staff and comfortable rooms make it easy to call Kaya's Place home.
(www.kayasplace.com/ 506-750-0690 in Costa Rica)
On the way home to San José, we stop by the Moin port where crates and crates of bananas are shipped out daily. Bananas are Costa Rica’s second largest export product. There are huge plantations in the Caribbean lowlands in Costa Rica where millions of bananas are produced annually and most of them leave through this port.
Home is upon us quickly. The drive was smooth and trouble free (no 2 hour backups on the Braulio Carrillo road). Its good to be home but the ocean is always calling my name…. soon I will return.
Tuesday, May 16, 2006
"Red Flags, Good Surf and Sun"
Day 4: Puerto Viejo
Finally, it’s a relatively sunny morning. The abundant vegetation glistens with remnant drops of rain, the air is fresh and Cabinas Guarana is quiet, except for birds singing. One final tour of the gardens reveals a guanabana tree, one of my most favorite fruits… but I don’t pick it.
We pack and leave our comfortable room at Cabinas Guarana and head for the beach. The storm system has passed and the waves are breaking cleaner today. There are still red flags out to warn swimmers but the surfers are happy today.
Cabinas Gaurana: 506-750-0244 in Costa Rica/ www.hotelguarana.com
I never go to the beach without my beach chair. It enables me to sit with my feet in the surf stay cool, while staying relatively dry. Ahhh, the water temperature is wonderful and refreshing.
I walk along the shore for a while and am again (this happens to me often as I travel around
Costa Rica) overwhelmed with a feeling of peace and beauty. There is no one else out here. Once you walk away from a hotel or parking access, the beach becomes deserted. I walk for a while marveling at the turquoise green water and blue skies. The hot Caribbean sun beats against my skin, but the cool ocean breeze softens its effects. Again, I am reminded of Costa Rica’s beauty and sereneness. Pura Vida!
We check in to Kaya’s Place, located just before you cross the little bridge into Puerto Viejo. Kaya’s Place, truly an eco-lodge, has a unique atmosphere and it immediately feels like home. It has that “you can hang out here” feeling. Handmade, Afro- Caribbean style furniture (all made from native farm raised or fallen wood, no trees were cut for its construction) adorns the lodge and all the rooms, each in a unique fashion.
Our room is huge. We have a kitchen equipped with a stove and refrigerator and a furnished living area with benches, a table and even candles. We also have a turbo fan in the room, which cools everything off immediately. NICE!
The rain has moved in again and the cozy restaurant/lodge seems like the perfect way to pass the evening. They have dominoes, backgammon and checkers for guests to enjoy and we use the honor system to serve ourselves beer. There is a full service restaurant here but tonight the owner, JT, is cooking burgers for anyone who is hungry. It is a relatively quiet night here.
Monday, May 15, 2006
"A Tree House in Puerto Viejo"
Day 3: Puerto Viejo
Cabinas Guarana offers free access to the kitchen including free coffee and tea from 7:30am until 9pm. They have a cozy breakfast nook sheltered from the elements with unique decorative tables and relaxing music in the background.
It is still raining so we take lots of time to enjoy the breakfast nook, reading the local paper and relaxing. The detail in the design of Cabinas Guarana becomes apparent when one has time to observe. All the mosaic tile work at the reception desk and surrounding area is intricate and beautiful. Giovanna, the owner, has lent her personal touch to every aspect of this hotel. Definitely a place worth staying—we recommend it! (Cabinas Guarana- www.hotelguarana.com, 506-750-0244 in Costa Rica)
The rain appears to have stopped so we venture out to do a foot tour of the town. Puerto Viejo is a small town that sits right on the Caribbean Sea coast, surrounded by black sand beaches and dense forest. To walk all the streets in the town of Puerto Viejo it takes about an hour, depending on how much you shop. There are unique clothing stores, surf shops
, restaurants and a variety of gift shops. Hammocks seem to be especially popular here. There are a number of things to do here in Puerto Viejo and in the surrounding area. It is well know for surfing at the famous Salsa Brava surf break, for snorkeling (coral reefs line the southern Caribbean coast), canopy tours, rafting, canoeing, sea turtles, and indigenous village tours. These are all things I will do on my next journey here.
You can rent bikes and scooters to help get around if you don’t have a
car, though it is a bit far to ride your bike down a bumpy, bumpy road from Puerto Viejo to either Manzanillo or Cahuita. Now the sun is actually breaking through so its time to go to the beach. The red flags are still up, but it is a beautiful day for enjoying the beach from the shore and breakers. I always make
time to walk the high tide line for washed up jewels. Searching for raffia palm or an ox-eye seeds is definitely a hobby. I choose very carefully so as not to accumulate too much stuff!Maxi’s restaurant in Manzanillo serves a variety of fresh fish and Caribbean style dishes. Fresh seafood and a few beers after an afternoon at the beach—now that sounds perfect!
Returning to the hotel, there is time to explore the tree house at Cabinas Guarana near room #5. It is about a 60’ climb, straight up a sturdy handmade ladder to a small, but very stable tree house that offers views of the ocean and town. There is a great bird's eye view from up here. Everything looks so small. I bet the sunset would be beautiful from up here.
Sunday, May 14, 2006
“Rainy days are here again…”
Day 2: Puerto Viejo
Waking up to the sound of rain pitter-pattering on the roof is calming. The rain is intermittent and we take advantage of a break in the rain to load the car and go to breakfast. (www.cocolocolodge.com, 506-750-0281 in Costa Rica)
Coffee, fruit, granola and made to order eggs are available for breakfast. Fresh, delicious whole wheat bread and a cup of coffee suits me fine, as I am anxious to get to the beach, hoping it will clear up.
But no. As the sky darkens, lifeguards are posting red warning flags, which means no swimming. There will be no sun bathing either, for me today. Currents are strong, waves are crashing and no more than a few brave surfers venture out into the water. Only the barn swallows migrating north seem undeterred by the rain. Even the streets of Puerto Viejo are empty.
The rain makes it a good day for driving around the area. Except for a few small towns between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo (Playa Cocles & Playa Chiquita), there is little development. Red hibiscus and ornamental gingers line the dirt road. Thick vegetation begins immediately beyond the roadside, and is teeming with wildlife. Keel-billed toucans, Montezuma Oropendolas and hummingbirds are all easily spotted from the dry safety of the car.
It only takes about 25 minutes to drive south to Manzanillo. The road ends here in the small town where the Gandoca- Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge and the town co-exist. The Town actually lies within the parks boundary. It is a small town with a few restaurants, stores and residences.
There is a trail that goes south along the beach, crosses a stream and on toward Punta Mona. I am told that this trail is usually very muddy and can be slow going. There are also paths leading off from here that go to distant Indian Villages. Don’t make any wrong turns or you might find yourself visiting one of the native villages, uninvited.
The waves are flat here in Manzanillo and its pouring. We venture back through Puerto Viejo to Cahuita (about 25 minutes north of Puerto Viejo), where we eat lunch as Sobre Las Olas, a nice seafood restaurant offering Caribbean style seafood, pasta and meats. They serve delicious food, but at a premium price.
It is time to check in at Cabinas Guarana. Friendly staff greets us as we walk in the door and immediately, we feel welcome. Centrally located in Puerto Viejo, Cabinas Guarana has plenty of palm trees and thatched roofs and greenery offering privacy from the street. Narrow walks lead you through a maze of cabinas. The rooms here feature excellent ceiling fans, private baths, hot water and nice, decorative artwork. Brightly painted, the cabinas make even a dull, rainy day seem bright.
The rainy night calls for an evening indoors. I am glad I packed cards. A few games of rummy and the lull of the ceiling fan make for an early evening to bed. Comfy mattresses and nice sheets will make for a good nights sleep.
Waking up to the sound of rain pitter-pattering on the roof is calming. The rain is intermittent and we take advantage of a break in the rain to load the car and go to breakfast. (www.cocolocolodge.com, 506-750-0281 in Costa Rica)
Coffee, fruit, granola and made to order eggs are available for breakfast. Fresh, delicious whole wheat bread and a cup of coffee suits me fine, as I am anxious to get to the beach, hoping it will clear up.
But no. As the sky darkens, lifeguards are posting red warning flags, which means no swimming. There will be no sun bathing either, for me today. Currents are strong, waves are crashing and no more than a few brave surfers venture out into the water. Only the barn swallows migrating north seem undeterred by the rain. Even the streets of Puerto Viejo are empty.
The rain makes it a good day for driving around the area. Except for a few small towns between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo (Playa Cocles & Playa Chiquita), there is little development. Red hibiscus and ornamental gingers line the dirt road. Thick vegetation begins immediately beyond the roadside, and is teeming with wildlife. Keel-billed toucans, Montezuma Oropendolas and hummingbirds are all easily spotted from the dry safety of the car.
It only takes about 25 minutes to drive south to Manzanillo. The road ends here in the small town where the Gandoca- Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge and the town co-exist. The Town actually lies within the parks boundary. It is a small town with a few restaurants, stores and residences.
There is a trail that goes south along the beach, crosses a stream and on toward Punta Mona. I am told that this trail is usually very muddy and can be slow going. There are also paths leading off from here that go to distant Indian Villages. Don’t make any wrong turns or you might find yourself visiting one of the native villages, uninvited.
The waves are flat here in Manzanillo and its pouring. We venture back through Puerto Viejo to Cahuita (about 25 minutes north of Puerto Viejo), where we eat lunch as Sobre Las Olas, a nice seafood restaurant offering Caribbean style seafood, pasta and meats. They serve delicious food, but at a premium price.
It is time to check in at Cabinas Guarana. Friendly staff greets us as we walk in the door and immediately, we feel welcome. Centrally located in Puerto Viejo, Cabinas Guarana has plenty of palm trees and thatched roofs and greenery offering privacy from the street. Narrow walks lead you through a maze of cabinas. The rooms here feature excellent ceiling fans, private baths, hot water and nice, decorative artwork. Brightly painted, the cabinas make even a dull, rainy day seem bright.
The rainy night calls for an evening indoors. I am glad I packed cards. A few games of rummy and the lull of the ceiling fan make for an early evening to bed. Comfy mattresses and nice sheets will make for a good nights sleep.
Saturday, May 13, 2006
"Ahhh, the South Caribbean"
Day 1: San José to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
It takes about 4 hours to get to Puerto Viejo from San José. The roads are good most of the way now that they have repaved the Braulio Carrillo road from the pay toll all the way to Guapiles. One you turn off the main road towards Puerto Viejo though, the road alternates between being paved and slightly pot-holey to unpaved and very pot-holey.
We arrive at Coco Loco Lodge, tucked in a quiet corner in Puerto Viejo. The spacious lodge has a nicely manicured appearance and plenty of plantings to offer privacy between some of the cabinas and to encourage birds onto the property. Immediately, we are greeted by the call of a laughing falcon off in the distance and the sweet song of Costa Rica’s national bird, the clay colored robin, echoes in the brush.
The Coco Loco Lodge features 11 cabinas in all, suitable for housing anywhere from 2 to 30 people. Cabina prices range from $30 to 80$/night depending on season and number of people. All rooms are equipped with private bathroom, hot water, a porch with hammock and mosquito nets over the beds. The rooms are not air-conditioned but have fans. Doors have secure locks as do windows.
Once settled into our rooms, the late afternoon hours are ideal for bird watching. Just by walking around the perimeter of the Coco Loco Lodge we spot 18 different species of bird including the olive backed euphonia, long tailed tyrant, passerinni tanager and the eastern wood phoebe, just to name a few. Oh, and the sloths, the two and three-toed are both found in the neighboring treetops.
Nighttime in Puerto Viejo is hoppin’, even on a Monday night. Bars are open and people are out enjoying the pleasant evening and dry weather. Many people rent bikes and this accounts for most of the traffic on the streets. After a few beers and a delicious pizza, it is time to retire to the room.
The night brings thunderstorms and downpours. We have cable TV in the room, which helps to pass along the rainy night.
Below are pictures of the Braulio Carrillio National Park you pass thru on the way to the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica.
It takes about 4 hours to get to Puerto Viejo from San José. The roads are good most of the way now that they have repaved the Braulio Carrillo road from the pay toll all the way to Guapiles. One you turn off the main road towards Puerto Viejo though, the road alternates between being paved and slightly pot-holey to unpaved and very pot-holey.
We arrive at Coco Loco Lodge, tucked in a quiet corner in Puerto Viejo. The spacious lodge has a nicely manicured appearance and plenty of plantings to offer privacy between some of the cabinas and to encourage birds onto the property. Immediately, we are greeted by the call of a laughing falcon off in the distance and the sweet song of Costa Rica’s national bird, the clay colored robin, echoes in the brush.
The Coco Loco Lodge features 11 cabinas in all, suitable for housing anywhere from 2 to 30 people. Cabina prices range from $30 to 80$/night depending on season and number of people. All rooms are equipped with private bathroom, hot water, a porch with hammock and mosquito nets over the beds. The rooms are not air-conditioned but have fans. Doors have secure locks as do windows.
Once settled into our rooms, the late afternoon hours are ideal for bird watching. Just by walking around the perimeter of the Coco Loco Lodge we spot 18 different species of bird including the olive backed euphonia, long tailed tyrant, passerinni tanager and the eastern wood phoebe, just to name a few. Oh, and the sloths, the two and three-toed are both found in the neighboring treetops.
Nighttime in Puerto Viejo is hoppin’, even on a Monday night. Bars are open and people are out enjoying the pleasant evening and dry weather. Many people rent bikes and this accounts for most of the traffic on the streets. After a few beers and a delicious pizza, it is time to retire to the room.
The night brings thunderstorms and downpours. We have cable TV in the room, which helps to pass along the rainy night.
Below are pictures of the Braulio Carrillio National Park you pass thru on the way to the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica.
Friday, May 12, 2006
Puerto Viejo: Ahhh... the Soothing South Caribbean Sea
As part of updating our web page, in order to bring you the most up-to-date information on places to see and things to do in Costa Rica, we will be visiting many of Costa Rica's enchanting destinations this summer.
We begin our summer INFO tour in the south Caribbean with a small, laid back beach town called Puerto Viejo.
Make sure to check our travel blog frequently! We will post our invigorating adventures and stunning photographs for your reading pleasure.
Pura vida!
We begin our summer INFO tour in the south Caribbean with a small, laid back beach town called Puerto Viejo.
Make sure to check our travel blog frequently! We will post our invigorating adventures and stunning photographs for your reading pleasure.
Pura vida!
