Sunday, April 9, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "Evacuation!"
Day 8: Evergreen Lodge to San Jose
No tours are going out today as it is windy and stormy, oh, and still raining. It poured all night too.
There is talk of evacuating the tourists today because there is a hurricane warning for the Southern Caribbean/ Tortuguero area. If the hurricane hits here, there is no telling when visitors would be able to leave. As a result of high winds, trees and debris fall into the waterways, making traveling by boat dangerous until all of the debris can be cleaned up.
While I'm waiting to know what will happen with the storm, I tour Evergreen's frog garden. The Blue Jean tree frog is the main attraction here and I find several without any trouble. There are also geckos, spiders and other tree frogs to encounter. Forest borders the garden and there are plenty of birds flickering about, even in the rain.
There is a canopy tour here also. I will not be able to enjoy it though, as I just received word that we are leaving. Time to pack up and get going.
Bummer.
My time in Tortuguero is ending sooner than I would like, But I know I will return to this magical place soon.
No tours are going out today as it is windy and stormy, oh, and still raining. It poured all night too.
There is talk of evacuating the tourists today because there is a hurricane warning for the Southern Caribbean/ Tortuguero area. If the hurricane hits here, there is no telling when visitors would be able to leave. As a result of high winds, trees and debris fall into the waterways, making traveling by boat dangerous until all of the debris can be cleaned up.
While I'm waiting to know what will happen with the storm, I tour Evergreen's frog garden. The Blue Jean tree frog is the main attraction here and I find several without any trouble. There are also geckos, spiders and other tree frogs to encounter. Forest borders the garden and there are plenty of birds flickering about, even in the rain.
There is a canopy tour here also. I will not be able to enjoy it though, as I just received word that we are leaving. Time to pack up and get going.
Bummer.
My time in Tortuguero is ending sooner than I would like, But I know I will return to this magical place soon.
Saturday, April 8, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "Tree Frogs Sing Endlessly"
Day 7: Laguna to Evergreen Lodge
We are scheduled to change lodges today, but first there is time to explore the elaborate maze of trails that wind through Laguna's botanical garden. It is still raining this morning - pouring in fact- but with rubber boots and ponchos supplied by Laguna, I think we can stay relatively dry. Plus, the best time to hike in the rainforest is when it's raining: there are far fewer mosquitoes.
Laguna’s botanical garden is set in what was a coconut plantation many years ago and is now a regenerating forest. There are many interesting plants and amphibians to spot and it is especially good for bird watching. Migrating birds tend to pass through this forest with frequency, though better viewed on a sunnier day.
Despite the constant rain, there is an assortment of butterflies feeding on plates of rotting fruit set out for their dining pleasure. There are also plenty of insects, mushrooms and songbirds to see amongst the raindrops. Raised beds, inter-looping trails and small pools of water provide habitat for many forest creatures. After about an hour, I am still pretty dry and insect bite free, but ready to get out of the rain.
While waiting for our shuttle boat to take us to Evergreen Lodge, I explore the gift shop and meeting room at Laguna. This large classroom can accommodate student groups and other organizations and is air conditioned. The gift shop located in the same building has unique items and I enjoy perusing through the unique assortment of hand made necklaces and crafts.
Even in the rain the Tortuguero River is beautiful. Evergreen Lodge is located on the land side (as opposed to ocean side) of the River.
The cabin style rooms of Evergreen Lodge are connected by raised walkways. Built over swampy land, the ground below is flooded under at least one foot of water and it is still raining.
Each cabin has screened windows along 2 sides, private baths, fans and a front porch with chairs. Also provided are rubber boots, ponchos and umbrellas. An outdoor coat/unbrella rack helps keep the rooms clean and dry.
Opaque blinds offer plenty of privacy yet allow the sounds of the rainforest to fill the room. Tree frogs sing endlessly as the soft sound of the rain echoes off the tin roofs. It's warm enough to enjoy the rainy weather under the breeze of a ceiling fan while lying in a naturally, dimly lit room. It's just so relaxing.
Evergreen is know for having excellent food. With a more formal dining area, the buffet style meal is attractively displayed with ornate tropical flower arrangements. Fresh veggies perfectly cooked, beef, rice and lasagna— Yummy! The desert was most memorable– fresh mangoes topped with a lemon cream fluff– absolutely delicious!
The rainy evening calls for card games at the bar. Cheerful music and a delicately lit atmosphere create another soothing evening as I pass another night in Tortuguero.
We are scheduled to change lodges today, but first there is time to explore the elaborate maze of trails that wind through Laguna's botanical garden. It is still raining this morning - pouring in fact- but with rubber boots and ponchos supplied by Laguna, I think we can stay relatively dry. Plus, the best time to hike in the rainforest is when it's raining: there are far fewer mosquitoes.
Laguna’s botanical garden is set in what was a coconut plantation many years ago and is now a regenerating forest. There are many interesting plants and amphibians to spot and it is especially good for bird watching. Migrating birds tend to pass through this forest with frequency, though better viewed on a sunnier day.
Despite the constant rain, there is an assortment of butterflies feeding on plates of rotting fruit set out for their dining pleasure. There are also plenty of insects, mushrooms and songbirds to see amongst the raindrops. Raised beds, inter-looping trails and small pools of water provide habitat for many forest creatures. After about an hour, I am still pretty dry and insect bite free, but ready to get out of the rain.
While waiting for our shuttle boat to take us to Evergreen Lodge, I explore the gift shop and meeting room at Laguna. This large classroom can accommodate student groups and other organizations and is air conditioned. The gift shop located in the same building has unique items and I enjoy perusing through the unique assortment of hand made necklaces and crafts.
Even in the rain the Tortuguero River is beautiful. Evergreen Lodge is located on the land side (as opposed to ocean side) of the River.
The cabin style rooms of Evergreen Lodge are connected by raised walkways. Built over swampy land, the ground below is flooded under at least one foot of water and it is still raining.
Each cabin has screened windows along 2 sides, private baths, fans and a front porch with chairs. Also provided are rubber boots, ponchos and umbrellas. An outdoor coat/unbrella rack helps keep the rooms clean and dry.
Opaque blinds offer plenty of privacy yet allow the sounds of the rainforest to fill the room. Tree frogs sing endlessly as the soft sound of the rain echoes off the tin roofs. It's warm enough to enjoy the rainy weather under the breeze of a ceiling fan while lying in a naturally, dimly lit room. It's just so relaxing.
Evergreen is know for having excellent food. With a more formal dining area, the buffet style meal is attractively displayed with ornate tropical flower arrangements. Fresh veggies perfectly cooked, beef, rice and lasagna— Yummy! The desert was most memorable– fresh mangoes topped with a lemon cream fluff– absolutely delicious!
The rainy evening calls for card games at the bar. Cheerful music and a delicately lit atmosphere create another soothing evening as I pass another night in Tortuguero.
Thursday, April 6, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "Two and Three-Toed Sloths, Oh My!"
Day 6: Laguna Lodge
Its still raining, but we are up early and on the River. If you don't do things because its raining, you might not to do anything at all (it rains frequently here). We don our ponchos (provided by Laguna) and head out in motorized riverboats.
The rain splatters our faces as we pick up speed and water quickly accumulates in the seat, but the ponchos keep you amazingly dry. We have an excellent tour guide and boat captain, who together spot the smallest and most camouflaged creatures.
Along the shoreline we find a boa constrictor curled up in a tree and a little further upstream we find both two and three-toed sloths and a few basilisk lizards. We see several birds (herons of several species, kingfishers, northern jacanas, cormorants and hummingbirds) but no monkeys. They must have enough sense to try to stay out of the rain.
We stop for a bit in the Town of Tortuguero where we have a brief guided tour and history lesson on Tortuguero Village. There is time to check out some of the small gift shops and supers (mini grocery stores). Wow, they really have just about everything you could need in one little store!
A warm cup of coffee seems like just the right thing. We find a cozy coffee shop and enjoy 80’s American music in the background. Tortuguero is a quaint town, it feels very comfortable to be here. If you listen to the locals talk, you might wonder what language they are speaking. They speak a dialect of creole English, mixed with Spanish, locally known as Patois (pronounced pat-wa). It’s difficult to understand at first, but with time, you start to hear the words and understand a little.
We decide unanimously to stay indoors for the afternoon tour (it’s still raining…). Our guide offers an informative talk and slide show in the conference room. The rest of the afternoon and evening is unplanned. Cards are good things to bring in case it rains a lot.
Its still raining, but we are up early and on the River. If you don't do things because its raining, you might not to do anything at all (it rains frequently here). We don our ponchos (provided by Laguna) and head out in motorized riverboats.
The rain splatters our faces as we pick up speed and water quickly accumulates in the seat, but the ponchos keep you amazingly dry. We have an excellent tour guide and boat captain, who together spot the smallest and most camouflaged creatures.
Along the shoreline we find a boa constrictor curled up in a tree and a little further upstream we find both two and three-toed sloths and a few basilisk lizards. We see several birds (herons of several species, kingfishers, northern jacanas, cormorants and hummingbirds) but no monkeys. They must have enough sense to try to stay out of the rain.
We stop for a bit in the Town of Tortuguero where we have a brief guided tour and history lesson on Tortuguero Village. There is time to check out some of the small gift shops and supers (mini grocery stores). Wow, they really have just about everything you could need in one little store!
A warm cup of coffee seems like just the right thing. We find a cozy coffee shop and enjoy 80’s American music in the background. Tortuguero is a quaint town, it feels very comfortable to be here. If you listen to the locals talk, you might wonder what language they are speaking. They speak a dialect of creole English, mixed with Spanish, locally known as Patois (pronounced pat-wa). It’s difficult to understand at first, but with time, you start to hear the words and understand a little.
We decide unanimously to stay indoors for the afternoon tour (it’s still raining…). Our guide offers an informative talk and slide show in the conference room. The rest of the afternoon and evening is unplanned. Cards are good things to bring in case it rains a lot.
Wednesday, April 5, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "A Solo Hike on a Flooded Trail"
DAY 5: Laguna Lodge
Its easy to wake up early in Costa Rica because the sun always rises before 6am. I head to the beach around 5am. Thank goodness Laguna Lodge is 2 minutes away from the beach. Ahhh, early morning at the beach is so peaceful. There are no new turtle tracks from the night before, just our footprints along the shoreline.
The comfortable rocking chairs on the restaurant patio are the perfect destination after a relaxing stroll on the beach. Sheltered from the elements with a palm thatch roof, this patio is one of my favorite places in all of Tortuguero. In the late summer 100’s of butterflies can be found migrating north along the River, neotropical river otters poke their head up on occasion and there’s always a toucan or osprey sighting to hope for.
It’s a beautiful sunny day for a hike, so I decide to go to COTERC (Canadian Organization for Tropical Education and Rainforest Conservation). The boat ride from Laguna to COTERC is relaxing. I wonder how did I get so lucky to be here? The Penitencia River is beautiful and the canals on the way to COTERC’s Cano Palmas Biological Station are pristine and calm.
After a brief tour of the station’s facilities, I am ready for a hike.
There has been A LOT of rain recently and I am warned that the trail might be flooded for about half of my hike. I gear up, putting on a pair of rubber boots (mid calf height), and I leave my camera behind just incase there’s lots of water. (Intuition?....maybe) They warn me that “the water might be a little deeper than the height of your boots… just leave them on, they are for protecting your feet, not necessarily for keeping them dry!” ...
Okay….?
So I begin the hike, (Trail A) solo, and within 10 minutes, the trail is flooded (Let me define flooded- there is no visible trail, it is a bog- water surrounds me like a giant bath tub, only islands of rooted tree masses are above the water level). It begins just ankle deep, but within 100m it starts getting deeper. I settle in and slowly make my way. In some areas, the water is above my knees. The trail varies from firm under foot to 10” deep in mud. It varies from one step to another. Not much wildlife to be seen, or heard, but the hike is beautiful and quiet, and it definitely challenges my balance. I find frog eggs floating in the water in long clear sacks. It’s like I’m walking in a bog or a shallow wetland. I keep a sharp eye out for snakes and try not to brush into trees, as there might be a serpentine resident seeking refuge from the flooded land below.
Thank goodness the trail is well marked (above the water line). I just keep walking straight and I am quickly able to find the next trail marker. I fall into the water only once …. While walking, I go to take a step but find that my toes are stuck underneath a buried root and I fall hands first into 10” of mud and 10” of water. It’s a good thing my binoculars are waterproof (and I'm glad I’ve left my camera behind).
I finish the loop and am ready for more, so I hike trail B which is equally flooded but much shorter. By this time, I’ve got the hang of hiking in 18”, or deeper water and I am really enjoying it. I’m up for hiking the third trail (trail C) but am warned that it floods waist deep or more, so I decide to save it for another day.
I’d rate this trail as difficult when flooded and do not recommend it due to the amount it tears up the trail when its this muddy, and because its easy to fall or slip. You also have to keep a careful eye out for snakes. When its flooded, there is less dry ground for them to inhabit, so you are more likely to encounter them in the trees. When not flooded, there is abundant wildlife to be seen and the trail is easy to navigate (well marked and flat). Call ahead if your interested in visiting COTERC and to check the status of the trails.
Back at Laguna for the afternoon, there is more time for bird watching at the beach. By evening, a storm is rolling in and the rain begins (and won’t stop for 2 more days…) A local Calypso band is playing at the bar tonight. Laguna Lodge might the only lodge to offer live music in Tortuguero. The Calypso band plays original and traditional Caribbean songs to ease us into the cool, rainy Caribbean night. Definitely a fun time!
COTERC's Contact info: CANADA: Box 335, Pickering, ON L1V 2R6
Phone: 905-831-8809
email:info@coterc.org, web: www.coterc.org
Estacion Biologica Cano Palmas, Tortuguero, Costa Rica
phone: 506-709-8052 email: canopalm@racsa.co.cr
Its easy to wake up early in Costa Rica because the sun always rises before 6am. I head to the beach around 5am. Thank goodness Laguna Lodge is 2 minutes away from the beach. Ahhh, early morning at the beach is so peaceful. There are no new turtle tracks from the night before, just our footprints along the shoreline.
The comfortable rocking chairs on the restaurant patio are the perfect destination after a relaxing stroll on the beach. Sheltered from the elements with a palm thatch roof, this patio is one of my favorite places in all of Tortuguero. In the late summer 100’s of butterflies can be found migrating north along the River, neotropical river otters poke their head up on occasion and there’s always a toucan or osprey sighting to hope for.
It’s a beautiful sunny day for a hike, so I decide to go to COTERC (Canadian Organization for Tropical Education and Rainforest Conservation). The boat ride from Laguna to COTERC is relaxing. I wonder how did I get so lucky to be here? The Penitencia River is beautiful and the canals on the way to COTERC’s Cano Palmas Biological Station are pristine and calm.
After a brief tour of the station’s facilities, I am ready for a hike.
There has been A LOT of rain recently and I am warned that the trail might be flooded for about half of my hike. I gear up, putting on a pair of rubber boots (mid calf height), and I leave my camera behind just incase there’s lots of water. (Intuition?....maybe) They warn me that “the water might be a little deeper than the height of your boots… just leave them on, they are for protecting your feet, not necessarily for keeping them dry!” ...
Okay….?
So I begin the hike, (Trail A) solo, and within 10 minutes, the trail is flooded (Let me define flooded- there is no visible trail, it is a bog- water surrounds me like a giant bath tub, only islands of rooted tree masses are above the water level). It begins just ankle deep, but within 100m it starts getting deeper. I settle in and slowly make my way. In some areas, the water is above my knees. The trail varies from firm under foot to 10” deep in mud. It varies from one step to another. Not much wildlife to be seen, or heard, but the hike is beautiful and quiet, and it definitely challenges my balance. I find frog eggs floating in the water in long clear sacks. It’s like I’m walking in a bog or a shallow wetland. I keep a sharp eye out for snakes and try not to brush into trees, as there might be a serpentine resident seeking refuge from the flooded land below.
Thank goodness the trail is well marked (above the water line). I just keep walking straight and I am quickly able to find the next trail marker. I fall into the water only once …. While walking, I go to take a step but find that my toes are stuck underneath a buried root and I fall hands first into 10” of mud and 10” of water. It’s a good thing my binoculars are waterproof (and I'm glad I’ve left my camera behind).
I finish the loop and am ready for more, so I hike trail B which is equally flooded but much shorter. By this time, I’ve got the hang of hiking in 18”, or deeper water and I am really enjoying it. I’m up for hiking the third trail (trail C) but am warned that it floods waist deep or more, so I decide to save it for another day.
I’d rate this trail as difficult when flooded and do not recommend it due to the amount it tears up the trail when its this muddy, and because its easy to fall or slip. You also have to keep a careful eye out for snakes. When its flooded, there is less dry ground for them to inhabit, so you are more likely to encounter them in the trees. When not flooded, there is abundant wildlife to be seen and the trail is easy to navigate (well marked and flat). Call ahead if your interested in visiting COTERC and to check the status of the trails.
Back at Laguna for the afternoon, there is more time for bird watching at the beach. By evening, a storm is rolling in and the rain begins (and won’t stop for 2 more days…) A local Calypso band is playing at the bar tonight. Laguna Lodge might the only lodge to offer live music in Tortuguero. The Calypso band plays original and traditional Caribbean songs to ease us into the cool, rainy Caribbean night. Definitely a fun time!
COTERC's Contact info: CANADA: Box 335, Pickering, ON L1V 2R6
Phone: 905-831-8809
email:info@coterc.org, web: www.coterc.org
Estacion Biologica Cano Palmas, Tortuguero, Costa Rica
phone: 506-709-8052 email: canopalm@racsa.co.cr
Tuesday, April 4, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "You're Never Really Alone in the Rain Forest, There are Always the Monkeys"
DAY 4: Mawamba to Laguna Lodge
Laguna Lodge, also located on the Caribbean side of Tortuguero River, is just a short boat ride from Mawamba. I arrive mid morning in time to go on a tour of Cano Chiquero via kayak (no additional fee for boat rental) with a small group and a naturalist guide. We are shuttled by motor boat close to Cano Chiquero where we carefully transfer form the river boat to the kayaks without getting wet. No motorboats are permitted in this canal and we find that we have the canal all to ourselves.
We begin our journey upstream and immediately hear the endangered Great Green Macaw (Ara ambigua). They taunt us, calling while in flight, but never even give us a peek at their grandly colored plumage. We find a small group of spider monkeys feeding above us. Since we are in kayaks, we are able to sit silently and watch as they leap from tree to tree, stopping to nibble along the way.
We continue to paddle up to the park boundary and then turn around. The kayaks are easy to maneuver and a fun way to tour the canals. I feel calm, yet energized after such a serene morning. We return in time to catch lunch, which is on a more flexible schedule here at Laguna. You can eat during a 2 hour period rather than at an exact time.
While its still sunny, I venture to the pool for a little R&R. Laguna’s pool area is inviting. There is a second bar here and plenty of lounge chairs. I drift to sleep but am awakened by the sounds of an approaching thunderstorm. Storms move in quick here so I return to my room for a nap. There is nothing like sleeping during a afternoon thunderstorm.
The best thing about Laguna is that its main bar and restaurant are located along the River’s edge. The rainy evening passes quickly at the bar, especially after a few pipa fria (fresh coconut water) and white rum drinks.
It stops raining just prior to departure for a guided night turtle walk (turtle walks are rain OR shine). We are hoping to see a green sea turtle coming out of the ocean to dig a nest and lay eggs. We walk in total darkness at a comfortable pace for 2 hours with no encounters. It’s nearing the end of the nesting season so its less likely that we will find any. Two nights ago a group went out and found five turtles coming ashore. Its just pure luck.
Laguna Lodge, also located on the Caribbean side of Tortuguero River, is just a short boat ride from Mawamba. I arrive mid morning in time to go on a tour of Cano Chiquero via kayak (no additional fee for boat rental) with a small group and a naturalist guide. We are shuttled by motor boat close to Cano Chiquero where we carefully transfer form the river boat to the kayaks without getting wet. No motorboats are permitted in this canal and we find that we have the canal all to ourselves.
We begin our journey upstream and immediately hear the endangered Great Green Macaw (Ara ambigua). They taunt us, calling while in flight, but never even give us a peek at their grandly colored plumage. We find a small group of spider monkeys feeding above us. Since we are in kayaks, we are able to sit silently and watch as they leap from tree to tree, stopping to nibble along the way.
We continue to paddle up to the park boundary and then turn around. The kayaks are easy to maneuver and a fun way to tour the canals. I feel calm, yet energized after such a serene morning. We return in time to catch lunch, which is on a more flexible schedule here at Laguna. You can eat during a 2 hour period rather than at an exact time.
While its still sunny, I venture to the pool for a little R&R. Laguna’s pool area is inviting. There is a second bar here and plenty of lounge chairs. I drift to sleep but am awakened by the sounds of an approaching thunderstorm. Storms move in quick here so I return to my room for a nap. There is nothing like sleeping during a afternoon thunderstorm.
The best thing about Laguna is that its main bar and restaurant are located along the River’s edge. The rainy evening passes quickly at the bar, especially after a few pipa fria (fresh coconut water) and white rum drinks.
It stops raining just prior to departure for a guided night turtle walk (turtle walks are rain OR shine). We are hoping to see a green sea turtle coming out of the ocean to dig a nest and lay eggs. We walk in total darkness at a comfortable pace for 2 hours with no encounters. It’s nearing the end of the nesting season so its less likely that we will find any. Two nights ago a group went out and found five turtles coming ashore. Its just pure luck.
Monday, April 3, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "Just Hatched!- Baby Sea Turtles Make a Run for the Ocean"
DAY 3: Mawamba Lodge
Most tour packages end on the third day and groups head out of Tortuguero by 10am, returning to San Jose by 2pm. I am fortunate to not have to leave Tortuguero yet and I use my time to enjoy the sunrise, wander along the deserted beach and explore the CCC (Caribbean Conservation Corporation).
A short, 10 minute walk from Mawamba, south towards Town, the CCC focuses most of its energy and resources on marine turtle conservation and research. They offer a variety of biology classes and accept volunteers from March through April to assist in turtle research. At the visitor center there are educational displays adorning the walls and a short educational video on the turtle conservation. They also have the best prices on nature guidebooks and is the best way to quickly learn about Tortuguero’s wildlife.
I have time to explore the grounds of Mawamba and hike along their nature trail to their still developing butterfly garden. Again, the mosquitoes are ravenous but its nice to be surrounded by forest. Noisy parrots fly above me and the songbirds are numerous. I really want to stop to identify some of the birds I hear, but the mosquitoes…..Ahhhh, I’ve got to keep moving.
Whiptail lizards noisily scamper away into the leaf debris and several species of butterfly flicker by. The trail leads me back to the beach and I just cannot resist the sand between my toes. Must go to the beach! There are plenty of palm trees to sit under out of the heat of the sun to enjoy that soothing Caribbean Sea breeze.
Once the heat of the day has passed, I journey out to the beach (again…) with a small group and a naturalist guide from Laguna Lodge in search of hatching sea turtles. He gives an entertaining biology lesson on the nesting process of the sea turtles and we begin our search. Green Turtles hatch about 60 days after the eggs have been laid, so anytime from August to December you could find baby turtles making a run to the ocean. We were lucky and found a nest of turtles emerging about an hour before sunset.
It was overcast and therefore the sand had cooled to a acceptable temperature for the little guys to venture to the ocean. If they try to make the journey during the heat of the day, they will dry out and die before they reach the ocean.
From a small hole at the back of the giant depression the mother turtle made while nesting, the newly hatched turtles poke their heads out of the egg chamber. After exiting the egg chamber, they must crawl out of the huge depression (see photo bottom left). This can be difficult if your legs are only 1-2cm long and the sand keeps causing you slide backwards. They scamper and tumble over each other until they reach more level ground where they then begin their race to the ocean.
We observe from a distance and walk with them as their little legs flop, flop, flop towards the ocean.
I swear that when the little guys first get within sight of the ocean they start running faster. It is quite a site to see 75 baby turtles running to the ocean. I can only imagine how that first wave feels as they reach their new home.
Most tour packages end on the third day and groups head out of Tortuguero by 10am, returning to San Jose by 2pm. I am fortunate to not have to leave Tortuguero yet and I use my time to enjoy the sunrise, wander along the deserted beach and explore the CCC (Caribbean Conservation Corporation).
A short, 10 minute walk from Mawamba, south towards Town, the CCC focuses most of its energy and resources on marine turtle conservation and research. They offer a variety of biology classes and accept volunteers from March through April to assist in turtle research. At the visitor center there are educational displays adorning the walls and a short educational video on the turtle conservation. They also have the best prices on nature guidebooks and is the best way to quickly learn about Tortuguero’s wildlife.
I have time to explore the grounds of Mawamba and hike along their nature trail to their still developing butterfly garden. Again, the mosquitoes are ravenous but its nice to be surrounded by forest. Noisy parrots fly above me and the songbirds are numerous. I really want to stop to identify some of the birds I hear, but the mosquitoes…..Ahhhh, I’ve got to keep moving.
Whiptail lizards noisily scamper away into the leaf debris and several species of butterfly flicker by. The trail leads me back to the beach and I just cannot resist the sand between my toes. Must go to the beach! There are plenty of palm trees to sit under out of the heat of the sun to enjoy that soothing Caribbean Sea breeze.
Once the heat of the day has passed, I journey out to the beach (again…) with a small group and a naturalist guide from Laguna Lodge in search of hatching sea turtles. He gives an entertaining biology lesson on the nesting process of the sea turtles and we begin our search. Green Turtles hatch about 60 days after the eggs have been laid, so anytime from August to December you could find baby turtles making a run to the ocean. We were lucky and found a nest of turtles emerging about an hour before sunset.
It was overcast and therefore the sand had cooled to a acceptable temperature for the little guys to venture to the ocean. If they try to make the journey during the heat of the day, they will dry out and die before they reach the ocean.
From a small hole at the back of the giant depression the mother turtle made while nesting, the newly hatched turtles poke their heads out of the egg chamber. After exiting the egg chamber, they must crawl out of the huge depression (see photo bottom left). This can be difficult if your legs are only 1-2cm long and the sand keeps causing you slide backwards. They scamper and tumble over each other until they reach more level ground where they then begin their race to the ocean.
We observe from a distance and walk with them as their little legs flop, flop, flop towards the ocean.
I swear that when the little guys first get within sight of the ocean they start running faster. It is quite a site to see 75 baby turtles running to the ocean. I can only imagine how that first wave feels as they reach their new home.
Sunday, April 2, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "Leaf Cutter Ants- Not Paid Enough to Work in the Rain"
DAY 2: Mawamba Lodge
I’m up early for our first tour into Tortuguero National Park. Each boat has its own naturalist guide to help identify and spot the vast array of wildlife that lives here. Tortuguero National Park consists of a series of man-made canals that winds through and connects a series of rivers and landmasses. The canals were originally constructed to float logs from the forest to Limon for export during the 50’s and 60’s during the heavy logging period in Costa Rica that preceeded the ecological movement.
Thick green tropical vegetation borders the canals seeming to protect its inhabitants from the rest of the world. The sounds of distant Chestnut-mandibled Toucans (Ramphastos swainsonii) and Montezuma Oropendulas (Psarocolius montezuma) echo from deep within the forest and sweet delicious aromas waft from somewhere in the forest you will never be able to walk.
We travel along the Rio Penitencia (see map) to find plenty of Anhingas (Anhinga anhinga), Yellow Crowned Night Herons (Nyctanassa violacea), Great Blue Herons (Ardea herodias), Little Blue Herons (Egretta caerulea) and Bare-throated Tiger Herons (Tigrisoma mexicanum). We are fortunate to find the Spider Monkey (Ateles geoffroyi) scampering around in a tree not too far above us and later we find the more common White-faced Capuchin Monkey (Cebus capucinus) and Howler Monkeys (Alouatta palliata) Their little faces and hands are so human like. Sometimes they look right into your eyes… I wonder what they think of us?
We also encounter green iguanas (Iguana iguana) and green basilisk lizards (Basiliscus basiliscus) cleverly camouflaged in the pendant vegetation.
Our afternoon tour is along the Gabian trail at the Tortuguero Park headquarters. Instantly upon emerging into the canopy of the Wet Tropical Rainforest, I realize that insect repellent is not an option. The mosquitoes attack any unprotected flesh and even bite through your clothes. With insect repellent, they just seem to swarm at a more comfortable distance. The casual walk takes about 1.5 hours at a very leisurely pace.
Leaf cutter ants (Atta spp.) can be found hard at work on the forest floor if its not raining. It’s really neat to stop and watch these guys work. There are actually four different species of ants that live and work together in the colony. There are workers who cut and carry the leaves to the nest, soldiers who guard the nest, inspectors who make sure the leaves are clean and suitable for cutting and the queen, the one and only per colony, who reproduces. If it starts to rain, they drop their leaves and run home. You can often find abandoned leaves in the trail left in a perfect line. They just throw up their legs and say “forget this… We’re not paid enough to work in the rain, we’re Outta Here!”
I’m up early for our first tour into Tortuguero National Park. Each boat has its own naturalist guide to help identify and spot the vast array of wildlife that lives here. Tortuguero National Park consists of a series of man-made canals that winds through and connects a series of rivers and landmasses. The canals were originally constructed to float logs from the forest to Limon for export during the 50’s and 60’s during the heavy logging period in Costa Rica that preceeded the ecological movement.
Thick green tropical vegetation borders the canals seeming to protect its inhabitants from the rest of the world. The sounds of distant Chestnut-mandibled Toucans (Ramphastos swainsonii) and Montezuma Oropendulas (Psarocolius montezuma) echo from deep within the forest and sweet delicious aromas waft from somewhere in the forest you will never be able to walk.
We travel along the Rio Penitencia (see map) to find plenty of Anhingas (Anhinga anhinga), Yellow Crowned Night Herons (Nyctanassa violacea), Great Blue Herons (Ardea herodias), Little Blue Herons (Egretta caerulea) and Bare-throated Tiger Herons (Tigrisoma mexicanum). We are fortunate to find the Spider Monkey (Ateles geoffroyi) scampering around in a tree not too far above us and later we find the more common White-faced Capuchin Monkey (Cebus capucinus) and Howler Monkeys (Alouatta palliata) Their little faces and hands are so human like. Sometimes they look right into your eyes… I wonder what they think of us?
We also encounter green iguanas (Iguana iguana) and green basilisk lizards (Basiliscus basiliscus) cleverly camouflaged in the pendant vegetation.
Our afternoon tour is along the Gabian trail at the Tortuguero Park headquarters. Instantly upon emerging into the canopy of the Wet Tropical Rainforest, I realize that insect repellent is not an option. The mosquitoes attack any unprotected flesh and even bite through your clothes. With insect repellent, they just seem to swarm at a more comfortable distance. The casual walk takes about 1.5 hours at a very leisurely pace.
Leaf cutter ants (Atta spp.) can be found hard at work on the forest floor if its not raining. It’s really neat to stop and watch these guys work. There are actually four different species of ants that live and work together in the colony. There are workers who cut and carry the leaves to the nest, soldiers who guard the nest, inspectors who make sure the leaves are clean and suitable for cutting and the queen, the one and only per colony, who reproduces. If it starts to rain, they drop their leaves and run home. You can often find abandoned leaves in the trail left in a perfect line. They just throw up their legs and say “forget this… We’re not paid enough to work in the rain, we’re Outta Here!”
Saturday, April 1, 2006
Tortuguero: A Caribbean Experience "From Concrete to Jungle"
Tortuguero Trip
DAY 1:From San Jose to Mawamba Lodge
It always feels more like an adventure when you have to get up early.... A comfortable shuttle bus picks me up at my hotel in San Jose to begin the journey east to Tortuguero with other members of my tour group (and our tour guide).
Within the hour we pass through the majestic Braulio Carrillo National Park. This pristine rainforest serves as an example of what Costa Rica looked like in the 1940’s; 75% of Costa Rica was virgin rainforest. Vegetation dangles along the road side attempting to soften the steep ravenous depressions that fall, not too far from the side of the road, down so far you can’t see the bottom, anywhere!
Road markings are vaguely visible and people drive on all sides of the road, passing other vehicles traveling too slow for their liking. It can be a little unnerving... Just don’t pay attention to the road and everything will be fine. If you look closely through gaps in the vegetation to your left, you’ll have a peak at two magnificent waterfalls careening off the side of the facing mountain.
A little further up the road we stop for a traditional Costa Rican style breakfast (rice n’ beans, eggs, toast and fresh fruit and juice, and café) –yummy!- Only two more hours to go until we reach the port, where we will board a flat bottomed river boat and travel through a series of rivers and canals to reach Mawamba Lodge. Mawamba lodge is located near the town of Tortuguero, on the Caribbean side of the Tortuguero River. It is one of two lodges in Tortuguero located on the sea side of the River.
The name Tortuguero can technically encompass the northern half of the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica, but for this journey, we are referring to Tortuguero as the Village of Tortuguero, the Tortuguero River and its tributaries that exist in and around the Tortuguero National Park.
When we arrive at Mawamba’s private dock, Port Matina there is live music, clean restrooms and fresh fruit and café for all who pass through this port. Once on board the boat, we stop to observe some Roseate Spoonbills, a fairly unusual bird to see in this part of the country. As we get closer to the Tortuguero area, the endless green of the tropical forests that borders the Tortuguero River and its canals is mesmerizing. It’s sooooo beautiful here.
Upon arrival at Mawamba Lodge, a fresh fruit drink is served and we go get settled in our rooms. Many of the comfortable, recently renovated rooms are riverfront.
There are a few noteworthy plants to seek out. You’ll find the Star Fruit tree, Ylang Ylang tree (essential oil is the basis of Chanel 5 perfume) and the Bay Rum tree (great natural insect repellent if you crush the leaves and rub them on your skin), all located near the pool area. The pool area near the bar offers the perfect environment for afternoon sunbathing and swimming. Here, they have a Red Eyed Tree Frog exhibit where you can see frogs in their various stages from egg mass, to tadpole to adults.
There is plenty of leisure time to enjoy a tropical beverage at the bar before (and after) dinner. As evening approaches the house geckos and tree frogs begin their nocturnal conversations (songs?). Night falls early in Costa Rica. It is dark by 6pm or earlier throughout the whole year. Guests seem to disappear into their rooms after dinner in anticipation of tomorrow's early tour.
DAY 1:From San Jose to Mawamba Lodge
It always feels more like an adventure when you have to get up early.... A comfortable shuttle bus picks me up at my hotel in San Jose to begin the journey east to Tortuguero with other members of my tour group (and our tour guide).
Within the hour we pass through the majestic Braulio Carrillo National Park. This pristine rainforest serves as an example of what Costa Rica looked like in the 1940’s; 75% of Costa Rica was virgin rainforest. Vegetation dangles along the road side attempting to soften the steep ravenous depressions that fall, not too far from the side of the road, down so far you can’t see the bottom, anywhere!
Road markings are vaguely visible and people drive on all sides of the road, passing other vehicles traveling too slow for their liking. It can be a little unnerving... Just don’t pay attention to the road and everything will be fine. If you look closely through gaps in the vegetation to your left, you’ll have a peak at two magnificent waterfalls careening off the side of the facing mountain.
A little further up the road we stop for a traditional Costa Rican style breakfast (rice n’ beans, eggs, toast and fresh fruit and juice, and café) –yummy!- Only two more hours to go until we reach the port, where we will board a flat bottomed river boat and travel through a series of rivers and canals to reach Mawamba Lodge. Mawamba lodge is located near the town of Tortuguero, on the Caribbean side of the Tortuguero River. It is one of two lodges in Tortuguero located on the sea side of the River.
The name Tortuguero can technically encompass the northern half of the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica, but for this journey, we are referring to Tortuguero as the Village of Tortuguero, the Tortuguero River and its tributaries that exist in and around the Tortuguero National Park.
When we arrive at Mawamba’s private dock, Port Matina there is live music, clean restrooms and fresh fruit and café for all who pass through this port. Once on board the boat, we stop to observe some Roseate Spoonbills, a fairly unusual bird to see in this part of the country. As we get closer to the Tortuguero area, the endless green of the tropical forests that borders the Tortuguero River and its canals is mesmerizing. It’s sooooo beautiful here.
Upon arrival at Mawamba Lodge, a fresh fruit drink is served and we go get settled in our rooms. Many of the comfortable, recently renovated rooms are riverfront.
There are a few noteworthy plants to seek out. You’ll find the Star Fruit tree, Ylang Ylang tree (essential oil is the basis of Chanel 5 perfume) and the Bay Rum tree (great natural insect repellent if you crush the leaves and rub them on your skin), all located near the pool area. The pool area near the bar offers the perfect environment for afternoon sunbathing and swimming. Here, they have a Red Eyed Tree Frog exhibit where you can see frogs in their various stages from egg mass, to tadpole to adults.
There is plenty of leisure time to enjoy a tropical beverage at the bar before (and after) dinner. As evening approaches the house geckos and tree frogs begin their nocturnal conversations (songs?). Night falls early in Costa Rica. It is dark by 6pm or earlier throughout the whole year. Guests seem to disappear into their rooms after dinner in anticipation of tomorrow's early tour.
